Torrens

Hi, I'll order one of the 910's please. Let me know how to organise payment and shipping.

I have an almost exactly same setup and was looking to upgrade to 230 - 240 rwkw. I decided against it mainly for the cost, once you reach over 200rwkw parts start to get quite expensive. What support systems you will need: Z32 AFM 550cc high impedence side feed injectors Min. heavy duty clutch, twin plate is better Bosch 910, 040 fuel pump. Comments: . You will definately need the Z32 AFM, you will maxing out around 200-210rwkw on the standard. . 550cc injectors is recommended, however some say using a rising rate regulator is acceptable on stock injectors up to 240rwkw. I prefer not risking it and getting the injectors done. Sard prices are good, but they do not come with the collar necessary for straint plug-in fit. I sourced HKS for 78k Yen. . I was going to continue to use my heavy duty exedy clutch and see how it went. Without launching hard at every opportunity it should have been OK. It's more a matter of torque than anything anyway. Twin plate would give you no problems - but adds to the cost. . I was planning on getting the 910 fuel pump because my target was 230-240rwkw, and like you don't plan on doing internals. Getting bigger pump is still OK. Now that I have helped, can I ask what turbo you are looking to use for this?

I got myself a Ogura lightened flywheel for my R33gtst about 2 months ago. I had the clutch replaced at the same time anyway. There is vibration at low revs about < 2000rpm, and and you can can hear it too. Was told that this is OK, and not unusual for such a light flywheel. Comments?

I got a daiken heavy duty organic patrol clutch installed a month ago, and it holds the power very well. The clutch is not firm to me, it feels lighter than the stock - personally I'm happy with that, but I also got the flywheel lightened, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Good clutch, good price, not sure if the feedback from it will suit you... just my experience.

Seems a bit ho-hum to me... some body kit work could make it look tuff.

I haven't seen (or should that be heard?) paranoia in action so its difficult to make a comment. EAC is the ripper of choice for Win32 - as it does rip digitally unlike all other rippers. Seriously people, your simple rippers might seem easy and quick, but you're really missing out on some quality rips - I mean like perfect quality rips. If the source rip is imperfect, the final mp3 is going to imperfect and worse too. You will find the pops and clicks unacceptable. Yes, you can notice the difference. Also VBR is the best for sound reproduction, which is more important for those who are looking for quality over the 10% or so filesize difference. I recommend using it for yourself, and doing a comparison - you won't turn back, and you won't accept inferior rips again. For those who use winamp / media player and have pissy little speakers (i.e. non hi-fi type equipment), try DFX (digital sound processor) - great enahancment in sound. fxsound.com

Agreed. I recently had a heap of mods installed by Gavin and his team. He also found other issues that I got him to fix too. It cost me, but in the end better than something major happening, and relieved that he found them at all. I had my Apexi PFC installed by another mob in Brisbane - and apparently they left it a base tune. Grrr. After Gavin properly tuned the ECU, the car feels great. They get my business from now on.

Hey, are the times AM or PM?

The biggest problem with car mp3 is when you have a mixed CD to play. Between the mixed songs is a pause that is very frustrating and bad to listen to. When making the mp3 (if you guys do this) - make sure to rip the mixed cd into *one* file - EAC (exact audio copy) is brilliant for this because it also rips *digitally* ensuring highest possible quality. Use the copy range function. If you don't use EAC currently, after using it and hearing the difference you won't go back and you won't accept 'popping' in you rips. Be sure also to use LAME mp3 encoder with VBR (variable bit rate) to encode a cd with exact quality as original (according to our human hearing). EAC will automatically set you up with the correct LAME settings to achieve this. Here's a bunch or URL's to get you started: Lame d'load http://home.pi.be/~mk442837/ EAC d'load http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/ A little bit of information about the combination http://www.afterdawn.com/articles/archive/...ydeneaclame.cfm

Well, that's the one I got slugged for. It had an EBC in the box as well, so it's hard to tell what made it get import duty. Still, I got the Trust IC + piping kit for under 97000 yen (around $1230 AUD), so adding $90 isn't such a bad deal anyway - still cheaper than just about anything made locally. My theory is that if you send the goods to major center, it gets checked more thouroughly - both parcels that have been looked at by customs entered via Brisbane CBD. Another parcel went straight through when it went to a residential address. Just theories...

Nengun is good. I have bought $3000 worth of stuff over the last 2 months, no problem. I paid directly into his account both times. He helped me out on the first shipment with customs, paid no duty. The second, I got hit for $100 import duty, but that's life. Mind you it was a very large box with some expensive gear. My only gripe is that the emails can be a little short and infrequent. Last shipment just arrived with just a customs notice - had no idea when it was going to show up. He must be a very busy guy. TakaKaira is another mob I am pleased to deal with, but are somewhat more expensive, but have excellent range of brand and product. Good luck.

http://www.tamiyanitro.com/bbs/topic.asp?A...=&TOPIC_ID=3031 How mad is the detail in this little thing?

According the manual in front of me the model number for Apexi PFC for ECR33 is: 414-N007 I asked the same questions when I bought mine - there is the same product codes for the 93 ECR33 all the way to 98. The only thing mildy confusing to me was that my mechanic said that some early model 33's have not got the variable valve thing installed on the intake cam gear - and this can cause issues on the PFC. This is just rumor, just what I've heard.

Wow, that was a scary story. I would be freaking out at the point of the round-a-bout. Crazy people in this world.

I had this same issue too. Simply turn off the EBC option (it's a japanese yes / no symbols). If you have access to the hand controller it will be simple enough to do. If you cannot find the option, hunt down the english hand controller manual in pdf and it will show you where to find it. Without hand controller it will be very difficult to remove (if at all possible).

Sorry to hear it - why was the car over boosting, broken wastegate? Also, why wasn't anyone interested in helping you out, they didn't want your business?

http://takakaira.com/asp/template.asp?cat=...JKkGhHhceDfbiEd *lol* I wonder if you can do something for the rear plate?

Hot - too good to pass up. I also have been in contact with Daiken / Exedy Australia. I asked for distributers in Brisbane and asked about lightened flywheels. Here's what I got back: Start quote. We do have lightened flywheels part no: ( NF01 ). The weight is 6.68kg. Made of billet chrome moly and ductile iron. There are two heavy duty organic kits. First one is part no: ( R5028NHD ). Which is a new assembly the cover is pivot modified for increased clamp. The second one is part no: ( SKO-5028 ) Which is a factory heavy duty. The clutch plate has hi torque springs and premium facings. You will have to purchase from one of our distributors. Southside : Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch : PH: 38088193 Northside: Advanced Mobile Machining Service: PH: 0411157535 End quote. From what I can tell, the first clutch described is the one to go for, I am currently confirming this with him. Will let you know. How about we go for a bit of a dual purchase - maybe get it for a few bucks cheaper? In all, I am a little confused - all I want is one of the Exedy heavy duty organic clutch and lightened flywheel - it's hard to get a straight answer so far.

Great thread Swordfish - exactly what I was looking for! Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch (3808 8193) are supposed to have the Exedy heavy duty organic for less than $400 - but don't seem to have a lightened flywheel to go with it?

A new picture of the V35 GTR - haven't seen this one before. http://nissan.fc2web.com/ Bablefish translates the site saying simply this is an image of the GT-R.

It is a complete replacement - pin for pin compatible. Identical height, width and length.

http://www.rs-competition.ru/texpodderjka.html Hmm, actually this site seems to have some good english manuals. Wouldn't hurt for people to make archives of these as they can be quite difficult to find. Enjoy.

The car feels more as if it has way more torque. I forgot to mention that I told the tuner that I wasn't interested in high HP fiqures I just wanted better "street" performance i.e. more torque. I want the car to do the talking, not the dyno sheet. I'm quite nervous pushing it, I have the feeling that the clutch is going to get hurt if I do - was hard enough convincing the girlfriend of the cost already Deep down though, she just wants me to keep trashing those commodores / falcons. I got this gear second hand through Nengun (should be able to find information on him by doing a search) - cost me $1400 - just before the good AU dollar rise You should be able to pick a set brand new at this price now. I say get the hand controller - I have already used it to turn of the permanant engine light because the PFC was set to us ethe EBC kit. Without the hand controller, I couldn't do that. It also has the ability to give you plenty of feedback - knock sensor - various temperature settings - any sensor issues - a/f ratios. Plus it'll allow you take it to any tuner without problems.

Thought I'd share the experience here. This will be of most interest to QLD'ers as it seems there is no real clear best tuner up here that we know of to tune these things. Some are too expensive, some have had bad stories - there didn't seem like there was any clear best tuner. I decided to go to Brisbane Tuning and Turbo Center, because they seemed to have a pretty good reputation with the board members here. They also had the dyno facilities on site which gave them a big plus in my books. When I arrive, I saw a R33 GTR and an Evo VI parked on the premises - cool. Apparently the GTR was making around 1000hp - with a t78 turbo kit. They are now selling a R33 GTR FMIC for $700 if anyone is interested. Painted black... Took them less than 5 minutes to remove the standard ECU which was a bit of a surprise because I wanted them to do a before-and-after dyno run. Was no problem - but had to go to work before I saw anything else done. I gave them both the PFC and hand commander manuals in a printed english format - they absolutely loved that. To get to the good bits: My R33 gtst already had a full exhaust. Apexi pod, CAI, custom 3" front and dump pipes, high flow cat, and apexi N1 cat back. Boost is untouched from stock. Picked up the car next day - got a 10k service done as well. Result? Before Apexi PFC: 150rwkw (201rwhp) After Apexi PFC: 175rwkw (236rwhp) Dyno cost was $500 - maybe a touch expensive - but I've never had anything like this done before - and they are experts after all. Next step is to get a FMIC and PFC boost kit and upping boost to 11/12 or so PSI (R33 series 1). Should be looking for close to 200rwkw (and a burnt clutch no doubt

Got mine installed yesterday. It comes with certificates. Here's the code for the PFC: PFC RB25 9903 - 0015 Code for the hand controller: FCC NT 9907 - 0105