MANWHORE

tyaos, not sure what you were saying there. What I meant by you can't go wrong, is that as I said, even a normal headunit (music only) costs around 250+. also, even pioneer etc single din (although they're way better quality) are 1k+. Therefore, for 250, at <1/5 the cost, you can't go wrong - even if it breaks, you can buy another 5 of them for the price

Honestly, for the cheap price they are now, I reckon you can't go wrong. Seriously, nowadays, they're 250-300 at max. Back about 6 months, they used to be 5-600. For 250-300, you can't go wrong. Even a mid range pioneer headunit costs around that at strathfield.

Still available guys, lets get these moving. I need space.

Best turbo to do a high 12 pass and the most responsive would be the stock turbo. It has been done numerous times. Some of the turbos that the guys mentioned above would be way too big and be lag monsters. e.g. the 2540? lag central.

Nice one razor. I can't believe how many times i've seen traffic written on cardboard . I don't know what made them think that they need a plate that says traffic. If that were the case, I'd just not bother about registering, and just write my own plates out

Wtf? leds died? they must be shit! I've never had an led die on me. Their life is normally so long that they don't blow - that's meant to be the idea anyways.

That depends on whether he actually broke the law or not. Depending on the laws relating to your state, it isn't illegal to drive to a place for registration, or to get the car roadworthy, or directly back home. I'd take it to court.

Unfortunately, you'll notice that most of the blokes who said 25-30-35k drive a gtt. That's just the way things are. 3 years ago, I got my sII r33 gtst for 25k imported from japan. As usual,prices got smashed. Now, on carsales, there are plenty of gtt's for 20k flat-low 20s. You might be lucky to get 25+, but you might have to wait a long time. Most of the buyers will be young blokes around the age of 20. They'd probably pick a cheaper one over one in better condition, because that's all they can afford.

I've tested this. No matter how much retsriction was removed - fmic, full exhaust, no muffler, metal cat. The boost was still 6 psi. shouldn't be 10-12. So with just a line running from a pressure source, straight to the actuator, it still ran 10-12? post a pic up of your wastegate actuator? It appears that you either have a 32 actuator, an aftermarket actuator, or someone has shortened the rod on your 33 one (increases boost).

I'm good at soldering and i'm in sydney. Where abouts are you located?

IMO, definitely go the name branded one. The quality with the exhaust shop one will just not be there. Sure, it's one thing cutting up some bends, welding on bits of straight, bunging on a muffler or two. That'll make the exhaust come out of the back of the car, sure. But will it sound like shit and rust out in 12 months? Imagine the design work that blitz put into the exhaust - they'renot a one of job, they're designed to be produced in numbers, so more expense can be put into the design. When you look at the exhaust, it looks like a piece of craftsmanship. They look so nice that you don't even want to put it onto your car, because it'll get dirty.

I live in st ives, but i'm down there a fair bit

I think everyone has missed the most improtant question. r32 actuators run 9-11 psi (depending on how much restriction is removed). r33 actuators run 4.5-6psi (depending on how much restriction is removed). What car do you have? What actuator do you have? If you have an r32 or 32 actuator, then put a 33 actuator on, and the boost will be lower. I have a 33 actuator here if you wanna swap

I like GT shortie's second option. Rb20s are cheap as chips (<1k). Rb25, more. If I were to blow my engine, that's the option i'd be taking. Sure, building an engine will make a stronger engine, but they cost a lot. The stock one will take a good whack of power if you look after it.

I've also got a carbon canister. If you're in sydney, you're welcome to have a look at it. Chris - 0403 211 482

some people tap a whole into the intercooler piping or comp housing where the rb20 turbo has a nipple Others t it in. its up to you. Maybe try t'ing first, and see if you have boost problems. I normally tap the comp housing because its tidier, but i've t'd before without boost control problems.

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Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, you can be scammed. I've been done a couple of times this year, and I was careful Bad luck matey. I feel for ya. Take it to the police ASAP. They should advice you further.

sold

Haha, yeah, that was really bad Dave. They sent the wrong thing, they should accept a refund (postage at their expense both ways).

It sounds alright. Best bet for you would be to check this site out - www.nengun.com Nengun sells parts striaght from japan shipped over. They're not the cheapest you can get, but their price is cheap, so it'll give you an idea.

It is definitely a great mod. The rb20 should have came out with the rb25 turbo. It gives a fair bit more power, fair bit more torque, without much extra lag. Not to mention they're newer and in better condition. Just to give you a rough idea, the rb25 turbo supposedly flows about 25% more than the rb20 turbo (that's what sydneykid says)

There are now 5 offers currently standing. One is supposed to come pick it up tonight. To everyone else, like I said, first come, first serve

yep, but tune is always better though

I've had 4 offers tonight for the jack. My reply to each, was that the offer would be accepted tonight, but I haven't received a reply yet. I'm not holding it due to timewasters, but first in gets it