The Dan

How many ribs does the front pulley have? and does it have a thick divider between the PS and AC pulley or a thin one? Sounds like you have the balancer off a series 1 R32 GTST. Either way, if it has moved, you need to replace it or you could kill your engine. If it hasn't turned, then yes, you just take your TDC mark from that second mark

Yeah, true. It's impossible to send things to the other side of the world. Paul you are a silly man for suggesting such a preposterous thing!

Not entirely true. When you have a hydraulic problem in the clutch system and it has not hydraulically failed but is lacking in pressure holding ability, the most worn synchro in the gearbox is usually the more noticeable. It does not mean the synchro is fubar completely, it just means it is more critical of a perfect working environment. It is also not a waste of money considering it is currently his cheapest option to try and the slave is leaking so it needs to be replaced anyway. If there is a certain problem in front of you, you correct it before moving on. Sometimes it may be the whole problem, other times its part of a bigger one. He also stated the inconsistent nature of the problem in his first post which led me to believe it could possibly be something other than a synchro. As usually synchros are always worn, the dont normally come good for a few days, then go back again. Hydraulic cylinders can do this.

How could the cams have lined up in your previous post if they were off by 60 degrees? I'd be surprised if you even made compression. Have you done a compression test afterwards to confirm no bendies?

And..... where were you hiding the timing?

I'd like to help but I have 3 other RB26's to build for people with similar stories and I'm not in east subs. Happy to help with advice or whatever if you have any questions though.

I would base it on calculated airflow for a standard rb26. Remembering that we need to compare them equally, it is the only way. Porting and cams etc can make differences which I can factor into the equation but generally if you can tell me AFR's and how much hp, then I can calculate the gas/air flow from the engine. I made a calculator in excel ages ago, I'll have to dig it up again.

From what I have heard from the guys running them on XR6's, one guy had a T04Z on his XR6T running 18psi and made the same hp on the same boost when he changed it out for a 3788 but a lot earlier. Unfortunately I don't have any maps for a 4088 1.06 or I could tell you exactly when it'll come on

Yes it is but it may not be the WHOLE problem. It is a problem nonetheless

Why would anyone pick a 4088 for 450rwkw when the 3788 has the same compressor but smaller turbine than a T04Z. And it will still make 450-480rwkw.

Check the adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod also

Line clamp the clutch flexible hose and then press on the clutch pedal with medium effort. If the pedal slowly sinks away, then you have a hydraulic problem with the master cylinder. Peel back the boot on the slave cylinder and make sure it doesn't piss fluid out. Once you have checked that, get someone to check the operation of the pushrod. Then check oil level in the gearbox If all those come back good, then it is a synchro problem

So you took the time to post a question here and you haven't bothered to take the time to check the fluid level? I think you know what you need to do first.

I would use the factory rings if you are keeping the standard original pistons. Your piston to bore clearances are going to be all whack anyway so there is no need to overcomplicate the process.

I hear breathmints are refreshing. Where you stick them is totally up to you though.

23300-08U11 23300-08U15 23300-20P00 23300-20P05 23300-20P01 23300-AA300 These are all the part numbers for starter motors for RB25DET in R33 Skyline

Did any thought go into the runner length or did you just have it welded on wherever?

Let's compare apples for apples and put the Z on a sealed twin scroll manifold with twin gates and see what differences there are. Or better still, I know of a stock 26 about to be tuned with a 4088 on a single pulse manifold and and we have the figures from the z's so it should be easy to compare right? Wrong! Different tuners, head work, manifold design, age of turbo, exhaust size will all change the result. Have you done the comparison on equal grounds?

yeah you need to use the smaller diameter bearing for that very reason

Yeah I didn't believe it either until I saw it with my own eyes. It made 1psi at 900rpm

WTF? So you're running two tensioners on one side of the belt? I'd advise getting the correct block with the machined spot for the idler bearing and do it properly. Either that or the T866 belt has the wrong number of teeth for the setup you want. You need to make sure the timing marks all line up and after two rotations they will line up perfectly again.

Rhinorebel had this setup with a highflow on his r33 and was making boost at idle. We ended up having to change for a 3071 so it would be more practical at making 1 bar 2800rpm. He runs a haltech and uses the IAC but not the AAC from memory. series 1 r33 uses the same TPS as gtr but his IAC was remote mounted. Adaptor kit was supplied and designed by Shanef so if you have any questions about the AAC or IAC incorporation, ask him

Castrol Transmax Z. It's the same gearbox as the Patrol and Navara.

What cam gears are you using? Are you using a tensioner and an idler or two tensioners? You should avoid using double tensioners on the 30's

I'll bet you a steak sandwich it wasn't the turbine. Engines don't breath in reverse and any chunk large enough to go back through the manifold after the explosion is not going to have a shit show of getting between the piston and bore