SLIPPERY

have a look at your 2 dump pipes. there should be what looks like a sparkplug, sticking out of each pipe. this is the o2 sensor. now, off this sensor there are wires that lead to a plug. unclip the plug and the o2 sensor is disabled. yay!

do it in the garage before you start the car. you dont have to wait for 20 mins before you do it. we all wanna know how it goes! you dont need to take them out...just unplug their electrical plugs and go for a drive

youll have to have a feel under the plenum for the AAC valve and i think the idle adjustment screw hangs off that. probably best to get a torch and a mirror and have a look at the underside of the plenum...its a shit spot to get to like all things in a GTR good luck

i thought when AFM's read incorrectly that the mixture went richer rather than leaner ?

u should always get 2nd hand injectors cleaned before putting them in. FWIW, my injectors dont leak at all and i get the jerkiness so its not related to a leak, rather the squirter being a little clogged. injectors can be cleaned for $20 each with a print out of before and after flow rate, plus a spray pattern pic. i changed my fuel filter last week and its a 'tiny' bit better.

ive got the same problem i doubt it would be o2 sensors because if they were faulty, ie, not doing their job, then they wouldnt be leaning out the mixture on cruise. thus keeping the mixture richer and smoother. i think the jerkiness i get with my gtr is due to dirty injectors having a terrible spray pattern at lower fuel pressures (ie cruising) from running a few tanks of petrol bloody low. however, you said youve changed the injectors to be an AFM problem, you would feel the 'cutting in' and 'out' on all loads. i reckon its still a fuel delivery problem. hows your fuel filter? changed it recently? these old gtrs have quite a bit of gunk sitting in the bottom of the tank by now. the reason the car runs fine when its cold is that the mixture is enrichened by the ecu which compensates for the low fuel delivery when the car is warm

is it boosted? yeah? perhaps nissans 'rich and retardedness' for standard ecu coming into play

the guy at nissan recommended i use the smaller oil filter from the aussie 200sx for the GTR part no. 15208-53J00 (oil) for anyone thats interested fuel filter for 32 GTR: 16400-53J10

was this ricknismos former 32?

ive got mine in the 32 GTR are they used during distress or what?

im envious richard ! lol

of course it would Tom

not midrange boost, the power that the engine makes at that same boost level ..ie more efficient

well, the benefit over factory ecu to make more midrange with the Power FC will be to increase timing at certain RPM points or to lean the mixture off because the factory ecu likes to dump a lot of fuel in on boost for safety

geez, i wish i had to put up with an idle of 1100 rpm, that would be lovely instead, my warm idle is 1800rpm haha..still havnt found the leak yet or faulty AAC valve plus side is, its quite easy to engage the twin plate because the car will start to drive when i slowly let out the clutch haha

no worries mate, i didnt mean for you to sell and get a GTR, i just meant wait till you got the cash and then spend it on your girl..she'll love you for it

hold off with a piggy back or ecu until you can afford it id suggest save for the powerfc because eventually you may want to upgrade your turbo and injectors and all youll need is a re-tune of the power FC, whereas with the piggy back/chip, youll need a new one made for the turbo..ie its mod-specific and cant be tuned. dont waste your money on the SAFC or similar...youll end up further away from your goal of saving money for a Power FC. Happy for the short term for gaining a little power with the SAFC, but sad in the long run for not having better driveability and power with a full programmable ecu. ive been there myself with a stockish r33 on uni wages i didnt mod it during uni. when i finished and got a real job i sold it and bought a GTR

not much better than someone asking for 2 old lines anyway just thought ud rather sell 1 than none? found a second hand line for cheap...thread can be closed thanks to all that helped

its the metal plug that inserts into your dump pipe at the beginning of your exhaust pop the bonnet and youll see it close to the firewall on the passenger side

what pressure gauge? boost or oil? what kind of ticking? injectors or more like marbles in a tin?

$5 was only a starting bid.

yes, i live in a magical fantasy world where everything should be free..pff im not gonna pay $70 for 30cm worth of 17 year old rubber. white r32: you never named a price..if it is reasonable then i may consider it i was willing to buy one off NurSpec but it seems he doesnt want to separate ive had a set of r33 lines offered to me for $20...dunno if they fit tho..anyone care to shed some light?

bump still looking

have you checked for dirty injectors at all?

either clutch or a bit of play in the tailshaft. its definitely driveline.