Lithium

Yeah, but a 56T HKS GT3037 (ie, your turbo) being "based" on a Garrett turbo is that they have got a GT3076R CHRA and put an HKS turbine housing on it. TBH being the same core I don't differentiate it. Either way its better for a basic stock internal RB25 which someone is going to push 1.3bar boost MAX into.

Hmm if I were in your position when you wanted the same power with less lag I would have looked into shifting to an RB30, I had the distinct pleasure of going for a ride in an R33 GTR with a RIPS RB30+T04Z combination and the thing was mental from everywhere. It'd crush a stock turbo RB26DETT setup basically from idle up.

HKS 3037 IS a Garrett GT3076R. Garrett sell the GT3076R with no turbine housing, suppliers/aftermarket outfits sort one out to their disgression. HKS do so by buying it, putting on their own .68a/r turbine housing (my Garrett has the .82a/r which has virtually imperceptible amounts more lag and flows more) and a cute little bellmouth on the intake which covers up the surge slots which some people find a put off. Oh yeah, and the HKS badge. The 52T GT3037 is a bit different but no one really uses them on RB25s, they're more suited to smaller motors and don't flow as well.

A GT3582R is clearly capable of more power, but the guy was saying he is going to run 1bar-1.3bar on a standard motor - ie, where you won't see the advantages of the bigger turbo. If we were talking a built motor with 1.4+bar then I would be voting the GT3582R without hesitation.

Not sure who you are pointing that at but as I said, when I have issues in 3rd its due to compromised traction levels - a cold NZ evening where there has been rain at some point during the day even if the road appears dry is one such situation. I was just saying its POSSIBLE to have it being a bit of a handful (not counting going out in rain which is a given haha) The car doesn't have ridiculously traction, most people are impressed at how much in gear acceleration it can pull on street tyres - usually it can take pretty much full throttle in 2nd and it will just writhe a bit, not so much you need to lift off. First gear is useless at over half throttle.

A decent fuel pump and a set of 480cc injectors will be able to do that power level fairly safely

Why do you keep saying the things that I was thinking I wrote exactly the same response, remembered those guys are both making north of 330wkw and decided that maybe mine would be different with that power and decided to hold my tongue just in case when I make bigged numbers the car becomes useless haha. With 280rwkw however, my car is perfectly controllable - sure an "iffy" condition surface will result in traction loss in 3rd if you are being an animal but overall its quite useable.

Here's one RB25DETS2 referred to: The HKS GT3037 makes 180rwkw ~600rpm earlier than the GT35R, and thats loaded up on the dyno - not taking into account the better response resultant from having less inertia to deal with. Its after driving and/or being passenger in a few cars with .82a/r GT3582Rs as well as my own with .82a/r GT30R. I haven't owned a .82a/r GT35R, as I was targetting around 300rwkw and I seems stupid to me to buy a turbo suited for far more when you don't intend on making far more. I think GT35R are good for the power level they are suited for, but this guy has said clearly he wants to run up to 1.3bar on stock internals - so there is absolutely no advantage in going to a GT35R though even in drag racing with stock cams etc it will be that much harder to get a clean launch and if he doesn't get up in the revs/through the gears swiftly enough he has the potential for that much less punch into the next gear. You seem to be getting quite irate about it? Its nothing personal, just sheer logic that a turbo best suited to 280-300rwkw is better suited to 280-300rwkw than one suited to mid/high 300rwkw. Why would you try and convince someone with size 10 feet to buy size 12 shoes?

Two things: 1) If you aren't going to get >250rwkw on a GT3076R, then you won't on a GT3582R either - both can flow that power level at that boost level without an issue. 2) A .82a/r GT3582R feels WAY spongier "around town" driving than a GT3076R, saying they respond/drive the same as a GT3076R is ridiculous. Agreed fully with Nismoid, recommending a .82 GT35R over a GT3076R is basically saying "Why get 280-300rwkw with good response when you can spend the same and make 280-300rwkw with more lag??" There is a dude on here who has cracked 350rwkw with a .68a/r GT30R running E85 on his RB25DET. GT30R ftw.

The fact that they could improve spool etc definitely makes sense - its effectively like hugely tightening up the turbine a/r, though ultimately I don't like them - they would make the breathing of the engine very inconsistant and even when its open I really can't see it doing anything other than creating a restriction. All the dyno plots I have seen with hem being used seem to finish at the point the "normal" setup catches up... what happens to top end flow? There may be a better way of doing the same kind of thing.

I used silicone. I actually had ~19 old S2 coils lying around and filtered through all of them to find the ones that seemed to be visible in the best condition, no cracks - the epoxy and the boots etc all looked in pretty good condition. Took the car for a test thrash and it had a misfire, so got back and tidied/stretched the springs a bit and did the silicone thing - put them back in and took it for another drive and it was better than the car had been in ages! The guys who had been observing were both major critics of trying it and were voting I just keep trying different coils, and thought I was taking the piss when I said it fixed the problem - had to actually experience it themselves!

How did you go with this? That probably depends on how baller you are I think, either way you have to pull everything apart to get at the coils - one way you have to remove all the coils from the bracket and put the new ones in (not to mention spending >NZ$1000 on the Splitfires) or you spent NZ$15 on some silicone and just give it a dowsing on the base of the coils while still in brackets

Guess we all have cars with anti-surge housings then

The causes of the most obvious "Turbo whistle" noise that HKS turbos are often recognized by is anti-surge compressor covers - HKS GT-RS, GT2835, GT3037, T51Rs and T62Rs all have it though I wasn't aware of anything smaller having that kind of housing though I guess they could have done it with the GT2530s etc just to be special

Didn't the HKS Drag GTR use stockers?

Yep x2 ^^ Thats exactly what I was going to say on both fronts. The Mitsi/Trust turbos are strong as hell and aren't inclined to just seize - especially both of them!! It would have been cheaper and easier to take them to a turbo expert to look at what caused them to fail and then get that address fixed and the turbos rebuilt. Depending on the dyno you are using you probably could do with more work to the engine itself as neither turbo combination should be limited to 300kw @ wheels, makes me think the engine itself is the let down.

What - why did you change from T517Zs to GT2860-5s? I was always pretty sure the T517Zs are a slightly larger turbo than the GT2860-5s/GT2530s? Also if you are maxing neither out you're not too likely to see gains, need more info on your setup but I am getting the feeling you just did a side step if not a downgrade in flow potentially and wondering why you didn't get more power.

Stock setup was better on the pocket, came with the car IMHO a road car would probably be harder on the ignition system overall, the things that go wrong with Nissan ignition systems are more to do with lots of use rather than high revs/load. I'm running >150,000km original coils and ~17psi on an RB25 and there is absolutely no hint of weak spark.

Then you don't have an individual coil per cylinder, you have two cylinders for every coil. Your coils compared to an individual coil per cylinder is going to be jumping two gaps each time it fires, granted one of them is going to be given as much resistance but it still has to jump the gap. The real hard work is going to be the fact that it has to build up and discharge twice as much as a individual coil setup - my stockers are charging at discharging over a .9mm gap up to a max of 7500 times a minute. With wasted spark they are jumping two gaps 15,000 times a minute to achieve the same job.

I think especially talking to people who have gone that crazy, the consensus seems to be that once you are heading for something more drag orientated and if its moving well out of the range of full on street friendly turbos such as the GT3582R and at most the T04Z (on a 3litre) then its best just be accepted you won't be getting much boost pulling from low revs etc you may as well just go for something silly as if you've got bored with 600hp, whats going to stop you getting bored with 800 after a while. Thats not necessarily my opinion, but I know people who have been there and done that and they tend to feel that way. The GT4294R is a reasonably proven turbo, the GT4094R is marketed to be fantastic but I'm still not 100% sure on it - I've seen contrasting views on them and while they seem that they could be good I don't think they fit into the proved group, hence why I'd go for a GT42R as there are plenty who have made that kind of power with them and on a 3litre it shouldn't be too bad. There were quite a few around a few years ago that had GT4294Rs I think, just pretty sure they went up to GT4202R or bigger. If you want just around the 800hp mark then a GT4094R should get you there and may be a bit more lively under foot on the road - though the impressions I get is they still have the "large turbo" feel about them.

I'm not as much of a fan of the wasted spark idea, I had a fair amount of bad luck with trying it on mine and have swapped back to the factory coil on plug with some better insulation which has worked a trick for me so far. I think the main advantage of wasted spark setups is the fact that the coils are not mounted on a nicely earthed bracket which tempts fate as sooner or later the charge in the coil is going to find a way through the epoxy to ground instead of waiting until it should be jumping the spark plug gap.

Thats awesome, where did you find that?

I'd lean to a GT4294R for that power level if I were doing it. The GTK turbos I've heard references to being fairly laggy compared to a lot of the other turbos on the market but are probably tough as anything.

I have a Trust PE2, is this that girly sounding? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNuUKtj8es0

Thats useful to know You best keep away from the garage when you have drinks, if you were anything like us the idea of twisting the compressor housing and popping the intercooler hose off for making some smoothies is bound to come up haha