Lithium

Typically 1bar by 4000rpm, 1.4bar by 4300rpm is what we've seen with .82a/r on RB26s with cams and camgears.

I would have headed in that direction if it weren't for the fact that he actually has the T3 flange setup already, and I have been in a Starlet of the exact same model running a T3 turbo on it with no problem whatsoever. I honestly wouldn't have believed how well it behaved on the street if I hadn't experienced it first hand - i doubt I'd want such a thing to come on any faster as the doughiness down low was enough to stop it from frying the tyres uncontrollably. I've also been in a Starlet running a WRX TD04 (and for that matter one running a T25) and the difference between the lot isn't half as obvious as you'd expect. For what its worth the car has been upgraded to run a .63a/r turbine housing and a Super60 compressor wheel and is still perfectly streetable, just last weekend it did a 12.4 @ 113mph on 12psi (seriously!!!) - it has some bigger injectors and pump to go in for a retune to find the limit of the turbo and some faster times.

All the Skyline turbos are internally gated, the R32 has a smaller turbo than the R33s. The Skyline turbos probably aren't a good option come to think of it as you'd really need to run a bit of boost and they are effectively glued together. An R33 one MIGHT be ok, how much power are you after or how much boost do you intend on running? I'm not sure if you are talking about using the stock R33 turbo or an eBay upgrade, I'd warn against going down that path. I asked him about it and he said it was advertised as being off a 300ZX, probably a VG30ET turbo - and he put a .3 turbine housing off a LD20 turbo to bring it on quicker. He reckons the LD20 turbo is a good base but the compressor wheel is a bit small.

Oh don't get me wrong either, I have no reason at all to question Guilt Toy or his knowledge - everything else seems to point to him knowing what he's doing just fine. The dyno comments on here were just a bit rough and unfounded.

Hey man - one of my mates has a EP82 which he was running SMALL T3 turbine side (~.42a/r or less) with a 60trim T3 compressor wheel.... probably along the lines of a Skyline T3 turbo smaller than an R33 one though he has always been a bit vague on it. I will pick his brain and come back, but I'd guess it was in the territory of an RB20DET turbo. It drove remarkably well - felt much more solid than you'd expect, a little laggy but in such a light car it didn't seem to hinder it and once it passed 4000rpm the thing pulled HARD to redline. The thing touched flat 13s (or high 12s?) on >200,000km stock internals and was a complete hoot to drive like that.... its got a bit more of a serious since then though.

Nice - its still running with the GT3076R?

They are just a poos old T67 wheel, I'd have thought the T67 compressor map would give you the same info?

How are you guys all so closed minded This was possibly the nicest post from an Australian in this thread about his dyno results... and it still says they're not accurate. WTF is with you guys? Your results aren't accurate either. No ones are. I could very accurately go to every dyno thread in this forum and put a post saying you guys are posting bullshit power figures because the ones on the Dyno Dynamics don't match up with any other type of dyno in the world and Dyno Dynamics are far from the be all of dynos - lower reading doesn't mean more accurate. The only number that matters is the one on the timeslip, so whether the number is higher or lower than what you'd expect for what it runs at the strip - his time on its PREVIOUS tune to what the dyno reading he reported is still faster than well over 90% of the people on this forum can claim, and thats on a strip far inferior to anything you guys have here and with far less support. Good work man, very impressive stuff and nice setup and don't listen to the bollux.

Thats very interesting, I opened the maps and its as you say - the -9s are really falling over up there by comparison to the -5s, which prior to first finding a compressor map for them I would have expected. I am SURE I have seen a map for what was listed as "GT2560Rs" which were ~60mm exducer and was a bit more like a bridge between the -7s and the -5s. Either way, the -9s still look a fair bit better than the -7s haha

Ah ok, only 40x more expensive then Mine have already been going a few weeks with no hint of getting upset.

Who said anything about every couple of weeks? If you do it right it shouldn't be a problem. No one I know who has re-insulated them has had any issues and I know people (Cubes on this forum being one of them) who are making good power on the reinsulated stock coils which were done years ago now. Imho its much more effort to go and order a set of coils, pay ~$1000NZ for them and then change them over than to spend ~$10 on some crap to put on the stock coils - remove them from the block (they don't never need to be removed from the bracket) and give them some love. I guess people feel they have more dignity if they spend 100x as much to get the same effect

Do you have -5s now? Did you get a gain? Have you done cams? Hypothetically speaking would you come back and eat your hat if you changed to -5s and got a result within a few kw of with the GT-SS and it turns out that you were running stock cams/timing and weren't getting the most out out the turbos because of other things in your setup? And what is this bollux about "proper Dyno Dynamics dyno" or "True reading dyno"? I guess in Oz Dyno Dynamics are the majority used at the moment, albeit some workshops are catching up with the rest of the world and upgrading to Hub dynos - but globally speaking most dynos used read within a couple of % of each other (Dynapack, Dynojet, etc) so if you hear results you just need to take into account that Oz dynos don't read consistant with the rest of the world and take that into account yourself.

As I said on the first page, any one who goes to an aftermarket coil pack is being made a fool of. Stick with the stock ones - anything else you do is as constructive as burning money

The "a/rs" mean very very little without the information about what size wheels it has. It looks strikingly like a nasty Chinese turbo tbh.

I would be more looking at this one: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm They are supposed to be a splitting image of the R34 GTR turbos, so worst comes to worst you can use the stock actuators on them.

Straight line meaning only if you launch the GTR at 7000rpm, of course? The 370Z should have the legs and has the better chassis, I reckon it would wander away from the R34 around corners.

Picture of the broken compressor wheel from my stock R33 turbo - you sure that looks like aluminium alloy?

I have looked at heaps of things around the place over time trying to get to the bottom of different setup options but I guess should make a habit of favouriting things so I can look back over it all. Here are a couple I know of, one shows a typical example of someone who sells Borg Warners trying in the face of fact to make out that a 1000hp Borg Warner can spool the same as a ~800hp Garrett when in fact there is a 1000rpm spool difference being called out: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=521223 And an S366 vs GT4088R comparison - for some reason this time the images aren't coming up for me, not sure if its because I am at work this time or not but either way you can tell the gist of results from the conversation: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t...9140&page=3

Nah GT2560-9s... the -7s are more like N1s

That GT4088R vs S374 comparison is beyond suss, I've seen plots of the same car running S366 and GT4088R and the S366 was at best the same as the GT4088R but couldn't make the same power on boost. The Borg Warners are good turbos, but they aren't THAT good. Cheers Den001, I look forward to hearing how it goes

Definitely going to have to keep an ear out for results on that - I am very interested in seeing how one goes on a GTR

Good show man And cheers for sharing, the more people in the car scene looking out for the good of the many instead of their own pride - the better things will get. I had never been too sure about the R34 turbos, always under the impression they were effectively GT25Rs. On that topic I think Nissan have a few "specials", the (IHI based I think?) R33/R34 "GTSt" turbos are ball bearing and ceramic turbine/nylon compressor which is an interesting mix and I am still trying to ascertain whether facelift S14/S15 SR20DET turbos have a ceramic turbine. WHY DID THEY DO IT?

What turbo are you putting onto it?

Ah ok sweet, cheers

Thats interesting, what turbine housing do you have? Mine looks a lot like an XR6-turbo outlet so I am guessing you didn't use a RB stock dump style dump pipe?