Lithium

Haha yeah those things are awesome, very hoonable and light as so don't need much. There is a guy with one of those and a tinkered with B18C which has done mid/high 12s as a street car - no reliability issues again.

Actually that car is an RB26DET with a T62R and run a high 7 now Heat Treatments are the most powerful I know of, "over 1200hp"... has run over 190mph on the 1/4 mile. Considering there are ">1000hp" GTRs which have only cracked 160mph, it must be making a fair bunch.

Thats nothing to do with VTEC, thats to do with engine size - VTEC doesn't make it a bigger engine, or like a bigger engine.... it allows something to be a tractable reliable economical race motor. A 1.8litre VTEC motor for example will be no worse than a standard 1.8l 4cyl NA motor in driveability if not a little torquier/responsive due to compression head design and engine balance but also angry up in the revs. It doesn't compromise torque at all, it just means that its torque doesn't match that of a typical turbo or bigger displacement motor with the same power. Bolt a turbo onto a VTEC motor and you start making other turbo motors look average....

I tend to feel that someone who gets up on their high horse when someone else is happy with their equipment can't be too happy with their own...

Its very clear that many Skyline drivers still have tiny penises. I for one am a big Honda fan, it seems a lot of you seem to assume because someone is enthusiastic about their car means they think its better than everything or more than it is - you have to take it as all relative. Hondas are awesome fun to drive, I have actually just bought a Japanese import Honda Prelude (my 2nd 2.2VTEC one, my 5th Honda) and for day to day use it actually puts more of a grin on my face than my 280kw @ wheel RWD Skyline. These people raving on about these things having no torque, it would kill my Skyline from low revs and makes my Skyline feel more like a "need to rev" type car - albeit the Skyline would kick 7 shades of shit out of the Prelude once it gets a bit of boost on but again, I own the two cars for different reasons. The Prelude is something I can thrash around without worrying about it breaking (whoever said fast NA Hondas need regular rebuilds have been around too many bad tuners/engine builders), someone bumping into it, or going too fast to quickly. People may think that VTEC Hondas don't have any acceleration, but to be blatently honest after running around for a couple of years with a turbo Skyline with reasonable power I can still get a kick out of when the Honda winds up and goes when I need it to - there are no big risks or planning sessions required to work out how to overtake people, and more grins than frustration when thrashing it. Sure it doesn't blow me away with mighty acceleration, but its got enough that its not a waste of time revving it out and because its not a Skyline/Mitsi/whatever I can rev it past redline day in day out and can stay confident the rods will stay where they should be. Its exactly the same as when I go in a majority of other turbo Skylines out there, they have enough of a push in the back to tell you that its going but it doesn't blow me away - its still fun though. I don't take the piss out of people who have got their first GTSt with cat back exhaust and are rapt with it because my own car will shit on it from a great height, I don't see why people should do the same to someone who has got themselves a car which gives them the same jollies but they have the added bonus of not getting raped at the service station, not worries of ceramic exhaust wheels smashing, ring lands breaking, coils breaking down, etc etc.

Your criteria has got more refined every post. A privately owned full weight (+ cage) street R34 GTR did a 9.7 1/4 mile in NZ on its only run not long ago but that again was in NZ and went to the UK. Things like that aren't rare though, I'm sure there would be more like that around. I have been getting the impression that RH9 in Oz could be able to but is more of a dyno queen? To be fair, if you want to own a fastest anything that anyone is going to pay attention to you should aim at running 9s. I have heard of a few Oz R34s that would be able to do 10s if they bothered, and may have.

Whoa shit, sorry to hear

No that was a completely different event, I didn't even manage to get a run that day and it was the only time I had >200kw at the wheels with stock turbo.

In all seriousness I actually ran 14.1 with stock boost, pod filter and full exhaust. I'd expect to run in the mid/high 13s with a front mount and a touch more boost.

I've always taken the -7 to be more like an N1 equivalent... it seems the first person to be heard to say something about a topic (ie, -7s = GT-SS) is the one thats right and it takes a lot to get it set right if they weren't.

The -9 is a bolt up too as far as I understand. The airflow thing, there is no magic conversion - its all basically thumb sucks and the fact that Dynamics dynos read stupidly low probably mean the estimates go all up the wazoo. For the dynos that I am used to the calculations all seem to match up quite nicely and everything has worked out well so far - within reasonable margains of course.

14.1 @ 98mph

Thats exactly what I meant, I must have had a brain fart and wrote the CHRA # instead of the whole unit's part number - my bad

Sorry I'm not 100% sure what you mean by that question - do you mean how much more to the right can the RB be made to go, or how much more airflow can you get from one of those turbos? You should check out Garrett's GT2560R (466541-9) compressor map, quite interesting reading.

Did you buy the Garrett GT30 with the T25 flange? If so I am pretty sure they run a trimmed GT30 wheel and as such a T3 flanged turbine housing won't suit it as they will be for a full GT30 turbine wheel. You can get a T2 to T3 flange but I'd just sell the turbo and get a proper T3 one.

Any more on this? And on the topic of CRD cars, I saw a pic recently of CRD's "RH9" R34 GTR with what looked like GTR700's old rims and possibly tyres on a drag strip - so this car has actually hit the strip. Does anyone know what times it has run? Has it actually earnt the RH9 title?

Sorry, none was taken - I was having a non-tactful moment while having a stress break, sorry about that

I'd ultimately call them as something that'd hit in the HKS GT2535 kind of area, so yeah probably that power. I know someone who has made just over 240"rwkw" with a GT2535 and someone who has made just over 260"rwkw" on stock RB25s using a TD05-18G on Dynapack hub dynos for what its worth. IanH on this forum used to run one on his R34 GTT This thread done before: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Td...&p=1557163#

I'd not completely rule out considering going a GT4088R or something of that sort if you're looking at 1.06a/r GT35Rs, the spool doesn't seem that wildly different - and you get the whole twin scroll thing going on as well as a fancy big whistley turbo I know I'd prefer a GT40R, though I like big turbos and I cannot lie.

You are making a wild assumption that I haven't taken these things into account. Seeing as you are enlightened - have a look for yourself at the compressor efficiency of a 52trim GT22 compressor and a 60trim GT28R compressor and bare in mind its for a 1.3litre motor in a car the owner wants solid 12s with for cheap and easy without too much lag. Shaft speed will be heathy, but not as much more than the GT28 as you'd think and the compressor efficiency actually is a bit more in favour of the GT22. A 1.3litre making under 200kw probably doesn't need all the turbine flow of a GT28 and the GT22 isn't really exactly what I'd call lacking in relation - so while the GT28 woTell me which you'd go for for an 1.3litre aiming for up to around 190kw @ fly? If you read my post properly you'd realise I had said "boost" where boost was relevant and "pressure ratio" where that was relevant, when having a discussion about such things I don't feel inclined to explain the theory behind every single thing I am talking about as I assume that others who participate in the conversation understand whats involved or will ask if they don't and assume the same of me. I am actually a little more on the side of relying on 1psi more boost than extensive work on the engine to try and make more power on lower boost, especially when talking about a 1.3litre - bear in mind that 1psi more boost doesn't just raise peak power, but the entire torque curve gets raised. When dealing with a little motor (or any motor really) every little bit of torque helps - look at 1/4 mile times for people running 1bar on GT30Rs and 1.2+bar on GT2535s on RB25s, you'll find the GT30Rs making a bit more power than GT2535s often trail the GT2535s unless the GT30R car has the turbo really humming to capacity. Area beneath the curve is where its at... And yes, full spool I mean where the target boost pressure is reached.

He said volumetric efficiency so I would have thought he was not talking cross purposes with what you are talking about? The VE curve seems to usually be a bit like a flat bell-curve looking thing, and is well worth taking into account if you want to work out where on the compressor chart the engine at x.psi will be roughly. There is no point working out what the potential airflow of the compressor is if the engine is not able to breathe all that air at the pressure ratio it can do so with. I remember arguing a mate of mine should get a I think it was a GT22 over a GT28 - was a while ago but for examples sake, for his stock head 4EFTE (1.3l Starlet GT motor) as an upgrade because while the GT28 could flow a higher peak lb/min it started dropping off at higher pressure ratios which the 4EFTE would need to run to be able to ingest that airflow with a relatively stock head. The GT22 however came into its own above 1.6bar of boost, and was not really any worse off up there than the GT28 (or whatever two compressors I was compraring) so he could have got the bonus of having the smaller compressor but at no cost of power for his application. I tend to target full spool being just before the peak comp efficiency area, peak torque at peak compressor efficiency and peak power before the choke line, where possible I guess drawing my "line" from 1/3rd to 4/5ths of the way across the map at the target nozzle pressure.

You'd really need a full rev range graph, I usually just use 95% at 1atmosphere as a thumb suck when perusing compressor charts.

The torque scale has been zoomed in on a bit which will fudge the relative drop a bit, if the numbers on the Y axis started at 0 then it'd probably look markedly flatter. The Dynapack software focusses the chart on the range of lowest to highest read value for torque and power to allow far closer analysis of the data provided, but invariably makes torque and power curves look more violent than they really are.

The .82a/r Garrett ones are perfectly nice to use, and I run a stainless direct replacement and it is definitely a noticeable improvement over the stock one but having said that, the stock one was definitely not bad. I had a look into cleaning up the stock one and using a dremmel there isn't really much more you can do other than port match, unfortunately in NZ we don't have the option of extrude honing these things. I run in the 270-280wkw on 1bar of boost on a Dynapack hub dyno with mine, so I definitely feel something is amiss with yours.

Dyno Dynamics are pretty much the lowest reading dynos used anywhere. Again, that doesn't mean they are more or less accurate - they just put smaller numbers out.