Lithium

Gahh I clearly didn't make the search work right. The times I did it I only found things like "MickyT ET Streets" or the such. Thanks man

Nice pics Seeing the wheels/tires inspired me to start a new thread, if you have any input it would be appreciated! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...5t-t231307.html

Thanks for the input Just to clarify, are you aware there are two different "ET Street" drag tire types from MT? One is the DOT dated bias ply "ET Streets" and then the stere are the "street legal" ET Street Radials. Given you have provided a "255/..." type measurement I could assume you could mean the 255/50/16 ET Street Radials? Please appreciate that I want to make sure I am hearing it from someone who isn't just regurgitating what they have heard or read half paying attention somewhere along the line - I know people who have bought tires from advise given by someone just blurting out specs like that and have ended up worse off for it and would like to be sure I am getting the right thing.

Hi all When I finally got my car out to the drags at the end of last season here with a few gremlins still bugging me - the car only managed a 13.3 @ 112mph. At the time, there were other issues anyway so I didn't bother with addressing the lack of grip part of the whole thing but now I have the others all sorted and drag season is coming again The car realistically should be running at least a couple more mph next time I race but the 112mph bit should give a rough idea of the power level I am making. What tires running similar power levels are people using? I have looked around a bit and in my searchings so far on here people have been very unspecific about tires they have used to achieve times. I am looking at Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOT 26/9.5/16s and maybe to put on stock R33 GTS25t rims at this stage. Has anyone tried these, or have any other combinations they'd recommend? What kind of improvement have you had from going from normal road tires?

Yeah there is a thread similar to this on the NZ Nissan Silvia forum - there is a guy who must run on the highest reading dyno in the world. We have higher reading dynos than you guys in Oz on average by the sounds, but thats less to do with ours reading "high" than your Dyno Dynamics reading lower than virtually every other make of dyno. NZSilvia thread for lols: http://nissansilvia.co.nz/nuke/modules.php...p=339978#339978

215rwkw with a stock RB25, stock turbo, but front mount and ECU and a bit more boost is completely believeable - I have seen it many times myself. Depends on the dyno though, if its one of those low reading ones that some Oz workshops seem to have then I can imagine 200rwkw being a bit harder to break. I have heard someone claim >260rwkw on a stock turbo, THAT is a happy dyno.

If ITS is anything like Garrett, a T66 is bigger than a GT35R - so you will be downgrading if you went to a GT35R. A Garrett T04Z will fit in that location though I wouldn't be too sure a GT40R would.

To tell if you have an S1 or S2 RB25 turbo is pretty easy if its off the car- the S1 has a twin-fin "alloy" compressor wheel whereas the S2 has a black plasticy feeling single fin looking setup. You'd know if you saw it.

LOL Thats right, that was amusing - I think he could be blamed for making that up now that I think about it. I guess its nice to think you've done something better than everyone else with a similar kind of setup.

Awesome congrats! Great to see a track car doing it on the 1/4 too. Yeah I don't see a "bloody kiwi" cutting it either, I think "Drag GTR" is about as made up class specific as most are really bothered in going for. I get rumour that the Japanese are starting to rediscover the fun that is drag racing, I reckon the M-Speed GTR could be a serious contender to it if they took that down the 1/4. Also in regards to the 800ps claim, the video on Ignition I saw looked like it had two figures, one which was under 700ps and one which was ~800ps - I assumed that the 800ps was a "corrected figure" to estimate engine ps though I could be completely wrong.

Excellent - yeah really illustrates how matching a turbo spec and engine spec matters. Look forward to seeing how it goes with the T51R

Yay Congrats on the move to a big single I thought you said when you first got the GTRSs they were quite laggy?

Nice! Is it 2.5 or 3litre? Cams?

It wasn't Top 5, it did 1:19.7 1 1:17.3 – Ascari A10 2 1:17.6 – Koenigsegg CCX (with "Top Gear Spoiler") 3 1:18.4 – Pagani Zonda F 4 1:18.9 – Maserati MC12 5 1:19.0 – Ferrari Enzo 6 1:19.5 – Ariel Atom 2 300 7 1.19.7 - Nissan GTR 8 1:19.7 – Ferrari 430 Scuderia 9 1:19.8 – Porsche Carrera GT 10 1:19.8 – Lamborghini Murciélago LP640

Me personally, I'd go for HKS GT-RS twins interestingly. I'm not arguing with what your tuner says - but if I had not heard that and for some strange reason I wanted to go for twins at that power level, HKS GT-RS would be floating around the top of my list. Going for under 272deg duration is probably not something I'd do when going for turbos that size/power that high however. I'd be looking at something along the lines of a single Garrett GT4088R with a decent twin scroll manifold for that power level, should have better response than the laggy GT-RSs (800hp turbo combination only capable of making 560hp @ wheels, what a fricken joke) and just be way cooler.

OK one of my mates has an EVO 2 which in an earlier stage of its life was running a .82a/r GT3040 (GT3082R they're called these days) on a 2litre 4G63 which he ended up changing up to a .82a/r GT3582R. I never went in the car with the GT3082R but the GT3582R is surprisingly useable and he believes he should have just gone straight to that - definitely never looked back. He uses the car for track and hillclimb events and is always at the very pointy end of the field. The car feels quite NAish up to around 3000rpm but after that it starts piling on boost quite quickly and by 4500rpm it is fair honking along. It currently uses a 272/280 Kelford cam combination and makes good power up to ~8500rpm. If you want to make good power up to those revs I'd be inclined to think a GT3582R is really what the doctor ordered for you too, almost everyone in NZ seem to go for those and again - the fastest time attack EVOs in NZ (and there are a LOT of hard tuned EVOs here) are running GT3582Rs, the fastest one I know of took out the two "Superlap" events we've had here and did that on an HKS 2.3litre The GT3076R will make really good power, in my opinion go either a GT3076R or a GT3582R - a GT3082R is a pointless in between which isn't sure of what it wants to be.

Awesome, good to see it lives Look forward to seeing how it comes out with the tune and what it drives like!

Agreed, tell that to all the people on here who leap up and down about results from Dynapacks. The people who get bigger numbers (where applicable) on Dynapacks aren't necessarily looking for the bigger numbers, they are just a far better tuning tool. As said, they don't have the flywheel roller effect - and anything weird to see will show up on the graph... very precise

What the drilled holes in the compressor cover? If anything, it will make it a bit laggier...

At that rate I'd be seriously checking for boost leaks - make sure all the hose clamps are done up, no ruptured anythings.... BOV is not leaking etc.

I think quite a few people are watching with interest to see where it can make it to. The way it levels off up high suggests to me it might start struggling to pass 320kw.

I don't actually know of anyone who has thrown a rod because of the rod failing on an RB25 yet. I know of spun bearings usually to do with oil control problems. Fastest of any of the guys I know running stock rods (and pistons) is a guy who was running ~10.6-10.7 with full interior at around 130mph. Rods and pistons never let go with that car, had oil starvation after the pump didn't like a rev to 8300rpm or so during its last run on stock internals.

Thats really impressive already - you will be going for 20psi or so? What is your setup, internally gated or a high mount w/ external? Stock or aftermarket plenum?

Which can make really good power on an RB30DET - it will crack 300kw without stress, but its probably worth knowing that a GT3582R will feel no different on an RB30, but make quite a bit more power again

This is correct, don't think anyone thinks they are the same?? GT3076R/GT30R is the only one worth considering imho. The only people I know of who have run a GT3040R/GT3082R have wished they had picked or have just changed to GT3582R to find no major loss in spool but a lot more power.