Lithium

It wasn't Top 5, it did 1:19.7 1 1:17.3 – Ascari A10 2 1:17.6 – Koenigsegg CCX (with "Top Gear Spoiler") 3 1:18.4 – Pagani Zonda F 4 1:18.9 – Maserati MC12 5 1:19.0 – Ferrari Enzo 6 1:19.5 – Ariel Atom 2 300 7 1.19.7 - Nissan GTR 8 1:19.7 – Ferrari 430 Scuderia 9 1:19.8 – Porsche Carrera GT 10 1:19.8 – Lamborghini Murciélago LP640

Me personally, I'd go for HKS GT-RS twins interestingly. I'm not arguing with what your tuner says - but if I had not heard that and for some strange reason I wanted to go for twins at that power level, HKS GT-RS would be floating around the top of my list. Going for under 272deg duration is probably not something I'd do when going for turbos that size/power that high however. I'd be looking at something along the lines of a single Garrett GT4088R with a decent twin scroll manifold for that power level, should have better response than the laggy GT-RSs (800hp turbo combination only capable of making 560hp @ wheels, what a fricken joke) and just be way cooler.

OK one of my mates has an EVO 2 which in an earlier stage of its life was running a .82a/r GT3040 (GT3082R they're called these days) on a 2litre 4G63 which he ended up changing up to a .82a/r GT3582R. I never went in the car with the GT3082R but the GT3582R is surprisingly useable and he believes he should have just gone straight to that - definitely never looked back. He uses the car for track and hillclimb events and is always at the very pointy end of the field. The car feels quite NAish up to around 3000rpm but after that it starts piling on boost quite quickly and by 4500rpm it is fair honking along. It currently uses a 272/280 Kelford cam combination and makes good power up to ~8500rpm. If you want to make good power up to those revs I'd be inclined to think a GT3582R is really what the doctor ordered for you too, almost everyone in NZ seem to go for those and again - the fastest time attack EVOs in NZ (and there are a LOT of hard tuned EVOs here) are running GT3582Rs, the fastest one I know of took out the two "Superlap" events we've had here and did that on an HKS 2.3litre The GT3076R will make really good power, in my opinion go either a GT3076R or a GT3582R - a GT3082R is a pointless in between which isn't sure of what it wants to be.

Awesome, good to see it lives Look forward to seeing how it comes out with the tune and what it drives like!

Agreed, tell that to all the people on here who leap up and down about results from Dynapacks. The people who get bigger numbers (where applicable) on Dynapacks aren't necessarily looking for the bigger numbers, they are just a far better tuning tool. As said, they don't have the flywheel roller effect - and anything weird to see will show up on the graph... very precise

What the drilled holes in the compressor cover? If anything, it will make it a bit laggier...

At that rate I'd be seriously checking for boost leaks - make sure all the hose clamps are done up, no ruptured anythings.... BOV is not leaking etc.

I think quite a few people are watching with interest to see where it can make it to. The way it levels off up high suggests to me it might start struggling to pass 320kw.

I don't actually know of anyone who has thrown a rod because of the rod failing on an RB25 yet. I know of spun bearings usually to do with oil control problems. Fastest of any of the guys I know running stock rods (and pistons) is a guy who was running ~10.6-10.7 with full interior at around 130mph. Rods and pistons never let go with that car, had oil starvation after the pump didn't like a rev to 8300rpm or so during its last run on stock internals.

Thats really impressive already - you will be going for 20psi or so? What is your setup, internally gated or a high mount w/ external? Stock or aftermarket plenum?

Which can make really good power on an RB30DET - it will crack 300kw without stress, but its probably worth knowing that a GT3582R will feel no different on an RB30, but make quite a bit more power again

This is correct, don't think anyone thinks they are the same?? GT3076R/GT30R is the only one worth considering imho. The only people I know of who have run a GT3040R/GT3082R have wished they had picked or have just changed to GT3582R to find no major loss in spool but a lot more power.

Of course I consider a GT3071R a up to 300kw turbo, I got the GT3076R with the intent on making the quickest possible RB25 setup without going out of the startard rev range or general nice driveability. I haven't tried yet, will have to toughen up the motor first but when I matched it up it was assuming I'd go for ~256deg cams(if I upgraded), forged internals and run around or slightly over 22psi and intend on cracking 330rwkw on a hub dyno on pump gas. I think that is leaving head room, as opposed to completely maxing out the turbo.

Most people in Oz (its improving now though) seemed to run the crappy version GCG supply which I've still heard of people cracking 300kw with but not as easily. Most I have heard of all out is a Honda drag car running 410kw @ wheels on race gas on ~30psi on a hub dyno, I think it was a high 9s/low 10s car. In the states its generally considered a mid 400whp turbo on pump gas turbo I believe, on Dynojet or Dynapack dynos. Even on Mustang dynos (similar to Dyno Dynamics I believe) they run well over 400whp. There are a couple of EVOs I know of running them which have done low 10s on pump gas at over 130mph.

You're not the only one. Quite keen to see how it goes down the 1/4, assuming that will happen?

It appears the software only shows the area of the graph the power and torque curves actually hit - so instead of starting at 0 and going up to the most torque you'd make, it starts at "106". The result of this is that you are zoomed in as much as possible to your power and torque curves without losing any data, so what would appear to just be little wiggles in the curve have been magnified up to be huge sharp jolts. If you got Excel and plotted the points on the graph into a spreadsheet and then made a 0 based graph off it you'd probably find it APPEARS a lot smoother. Dynapack dyno software does the same thing, and whenever I have posted a graph people have questioned the tuning because of the bumps they can see - but its actually because the dyno software is set up to give you as much usual information as possible

Yeah I guess I could have said that but decided easier just to say you can't, much the same as technically you can't use a solid piece of alloy as a head without a bit of modification

Yeah I guess I could have said that but decided easier just to say you can't, much the same as technically you can't use a solid piece of alloy as a head

I have a Garrett GT3076R, I posted a pic earlier in the thread of the engine bay to give an idea of what I need to work around. I'm not 100% sure of the point of your rant, but basically I got given a 4" inlet POD filter for my birthday a few years ago after mates got sick of me procrastinating about doing something to my car and told "You have to use this now" My plan is to make a full shield around the pod filter, and make a decent cold air feed from where the stock intercooler was. In NZ there are no laws about what kind of air intake system you are or aren't allowed, so legality is of no concern to me.

What power range exactly do you mean? Check out this site - possibly a bit out of date but has some listed: http://t04r.com/turbos.php These days there are neat things like the Garrett GT4088R and GT4094R, and in NZ there was or is a IHI RX8 which is an ~1100hp really flash thing.... they are basically used on indy cars.... that'd be interesting to see on a Skyline haha

No, you can't mate up the RB20DET head and RB30E block - but (I may be corrected here) I'm pretty sure you can use your loom and ECU with the RB25DE head. I assume you are using an aftermarket ECU for this?

Dunno about you but I have a 4" intake and a filter to suit, its not gonna fit in there without chopping stuff. I had an intake like that with my old Honda and it worked superb though, and in that size (~3") you I am pretty sure AEM did a fitting which basically blocks off the air flow if a restriction appears - ie, filter submerged.

What do you consider a proper pod setup?? Or a naked pod setup?? My pod filter sits where the stock airbox goes but has no shielding at all. Yet.

Awesome, thanks for that. Bonnet up or bonnet down?

Cheers, I guess that detail is what we are after and is going to have to help the situation What I'll endevour to do is get before and after on the dyno and see what happens. Abu - thanks for the input though the example you give sounds like it doesn't assist what we are after, unless you did the runs with the bonnet down?? What I am talking about is when the bonnet is down and you run the risk of heatsoaking everything... I'd like to know how much can be gained by going from an exposed pod in the engine bay to a decent cold air setup.