Lithium

Fantastic, thanks for sharing Sounds like an awesome piece of kit - I bet its fun! Good work.

Gah stupid rolling road dynos having no rpm indication or solid link to hubs so it can all be put on an even scale for comparison. Very impressive curve shape though, care to share specs??

I am guessing you guys are talking about Oz records? There is a 120Y over there which has damn near done 10s isn't there?

I only said MAYBE, and remember I was referring to using a stock RB25 head. I agree with the point you are making, however my rev comment comes from the fact that when you use a STOCK RB25DE head on a larger displacement engine, NATURALLY you are giving the 3litre a head which will flow exactly the same on a flow bench as the 2.5 litre.... giving it (per cubic inch) a more lazy power curve. Put the equivalent flowing head on a smaller motor, the smaller motor will turn into a "make my torque at higher rev" motor - put it on a bigger motor and it goes the other way around, one of the reasons RB30DETs using stock RB25 heads come across so chunky. The 2JZGTE comes with a head from stock designed to be on a 3litre, so its a little different and even then people straight away shove a set of 264s or bigger in when going for more power - which is what anyone building an RB30DET *should* do if they aren't just clowning around.

Both in the territory of 360-370wkw on Dynapack hub dynos on just pump gas. The one running 130mph which hasn't done a ten yet is in an R32 GTSt running a .82a/r GT3582R, the one which HAS done a ten was in a GTS4 and had a small shot of nitrous to help it along additional to the ~370kw it ran on 22psi through a Turbonetics T66. It did 11.1 without nitrous. Funnily enough there is an RB25DET powered R32 GTSt here in NZ running only forged pistons, completely stock head but a shot of NOS and a GT3582R which has done several flat tens. So far the stock head RB25DETs here are faster than the stock RB25 head RB30DETs here, maybe due to not having a slightly compressed rev range?

Yes I have been in a few RB30 powered cars actually, one of which is a proven 10s car and another one (given its 130mph trap speeds) is only a matter of time before it does a ten. Can you explain what "all other cases" means?? All motorsport in a Skyline should be done above 4000rpm, and the R33 I refer to had plenty below 4000rpm to not feel compromised at all for normal street duties - it reaches full boost (22psi) by 4300rpm. Its a proven full interior 10s car and runs on pump gas. The RB30s were reaching their peak power at low 6000rpm while the RB25 I refer to at well over 7000rpm and actually on the road felt angrier/faster overall than the RB30s I've been in. Virtually all the RB30DETs I've been in are your typical stock RB25 head, stock RB30 bottom end, 22psi type setups. The 10s RB25 has a REALLLY solid push in the back from just over 4000rpm carrying through to 8000rpm as opposed to just under 4000rpm to 7000rpm for the RB30DETs. Bare in mind I have already said the RB30DET is in my opinion the better motor, I am just sticking up for the RB25DET in the light that people are possibly selling them a little short. The RIPS car I was talking about was the blue one, not the black one - http://drag-r.com/gallery5.htm

Have you ever been in/driven an R33 with that kind of power or its just a conclusion?? I have been in a 400kw R33 GTS25t running a .82a/r GT3582R and it was really quite streetable, it didn't have V8 style urgent below 3500rpm but it wasn't a gets-beaten-by-Fiestas-from-lights type car by any stretch either. If you stayed heavy on the gas over 3500rpm in 1st/2nd/3rd gear it would not take long at all for the tires to get completely baked, surely the only difference with a RB30 would be a couple tenths of a second earlier before the tires start baking?

Nice power, though that air fuel ratio is definitely what I would call scary lean - especially for that boost level. Also, you seem to have a bit of boost creep, not terrible but.

Yep thats basically it for me, I am still umming and ahhing about what I want to do with mine. In terms of outright performance, a 3litre is it - end of story. There is no replacement for displacement, and given that you use the same head as the 2.5 or 2.6 you are at no loss. The 3litre has the nearest to perfect rod/stroke ratio out of the bunch if I remember rightly and there is no reason without balancing and a decent strength bottom end, and a decent head that they shouldn't be able to rev HARD. I know people spinning them to well over 8000rpm, and making really really good power with them. Hell there was an R34 GTR built here in NZ with a forged RB30 bottom end which runs >1000hp and up to around 8500rpm - probably has the widest/fattest power delivery out of any street Skyline I have seen. I like the idea of having something like that but on the flipside SOOO many people have RB30DETs, and in NZ at least there is no love for the 25s so it'd be nice just to build an RB25 and have and enjoy a powerful streetable one which you KNOW is good. If nothing else, for the sake of staying pure to what the car was is a good reason to stick with the RB25.

Absolutely, I can see that - ditto with being not a Garrett fanboy... but I like to have the advantages pointed out to me why turbo xxx is better than turbo yyy when it has been stated that way but there is no obvious proof. For what its worth, your dyno plot for 340kw @ wheels looked HEAPS like a mate of mines running a .82a/r GT3582R on his RB26DETT with very similar mods. He ran 371wkw on a Dynapack hub dyno running 20psi in a GTR with pretty similar spool. Definitely sounds like the Blitz beasty is a decent unit. And on average from results I've seen (and I always run on Dynapacks so making my kw smaller isn't really in my ego's interest) Dynapacks read about 10% lower than Dyno Dynamics, though it seems there are the odd DD dynos that read quite high - there are always exceptions to the rules depending on who has set it up etc.

Very nice, looks like fun - how much boost is it running to do that? Something I'm not too sure about however is that last comment - especially performing anywhere near as good? Can you elaborate please, I certainly can't see anything on that dyno plot which shows it having anything over a GT3582R - what I see on that plot is a car making GT3076R power with GT3582R lag. At this stage I have not met anyone who have had reliability issues with a GT3582R yet and have various mates using them for circuit racing at quite high boost levels, making much more power than what you have posted in this thread... and if you have had a Garrett BB failure because of contamination it wouldn't be the turbo I'd be criticising. At this stage it looks like you can buy a 6boost manifold and a GT3582R for the same price as just a K5-660R by itself, so I am at a loss for what the advantage is? Please bare with me, you must expect being questioned if you are going to make such statements - the Blitz/KKK turbos are definitely a minority amongst the tuner turbos so if someone comes up with one on their car, and makes wild claims about performance it definitely makes one want to know more about it Cheers.

DOH I was a bit slow on editing it, I was just talking about boost level in general. No, not on a GT30R - there's probably no point going over 22psi on your setup... sounds like just the right level

Ahh yeah sounds like a good idea, on both levels 22psi is pretty much where I'd be going high boost as well. 20-22psi is high but really a safe limit for pump gas, so long as you have a good tuner etc - I know people running way more than that, but they are certifiable. Really looking forward to seeing the results on 20-22psi, it should go very very well.

NICE! Been keeping a real eye on this thread, will help me decide on whether to keep the GT30R/RB25 combination How hard are you going to push the tune when you do it? It'd be rude not to crack the 20psi mark!

Haha yeah, "7s is imanent". Done 8.4 in his hands after a bunch of "improvements" so far. Will be interesting to see how it goes

AHHH so Duke DID do a 7, I had in my head that they had but when I searched around I couldn't find any proof of it.

If you will be using the original turbo, you won't be making 350-400hp You will blow your turbo up before needing bigger injectors. Don't push the stock turbo over 12psi tuned, in my opinion.

Your shift point shouldn't be at peak power, it should be where you have got an optimal area under the curve. I aim for ~500rpm after peak power...

I have mine set at at 7200rpm rev limit, no problem so far.

A plate on the exhaust wheel?? Are you sure? Either way, HKS don't create the wheels - though cast their own housings in some cases.

HKS were 7.67 @ I think around 182mph and Heat Treatments are 7.57 @ 191mph. Those are the only times to beat that I am definitely sure of.

AWESOME! Congrats, thats great to hear - I ran on street tires with the same turbo, same boost and got the same time on them and have been intending on running my next meet on Micky Ts as well Fair to say I might be able to pull similar? I'm actually looking at raising the boost a tad too.

Absolutely outstanding work - one of my mates was there keeping me up to date and said he got to meet you, and said nothing but good stuff about you guys and your car Wish I could have been there to see it. Hope you guys get to go quicker, and that whatever happened on the last run wasn't too major

ATP's T3 flanged 5bolt one is a proper one You just need a XR6T style dump pipe.

My car running a .63 Garrett GT3076R was not any worse to drive than another R33 I know with an HKS GT2535. Under 3000rpm mine didn't build boost as fast as the GT2535, but whats the point in that? Below 3000rpm is not the fun area - its the area you want to potter around in and get fuel economy... not making lots of boost. I am pretty confident what I said up there is true...