Lithium

Did you buy the Garrett GT30 with the T25 flange? If so I am pretty sure they run a trimmed GT30 wheel and as such a T3 flanged turbine housing won't suit it as they will be for a full GT30 turbine wheel. You can get a T2 to T3 flange but I'd just sell the turbo and get a proper T3 one.

Any more on this? And on the topic of CRD cars, I saw a pic recently of CRD's "RH9" R34 GTR with what looked like GTR700's old rims and possibly tyres on a drag strip - so this car has actually hit the strip. Does anyone know what times it has run? Has it actually earnt the RH9 title?

Sorry, none was taken - I was having a non-tactful moment while having a stress break, sorry about that

I'd ultimately call them as something that'd hit in the HKS GT2535 kind of area, so yeah probably that power. I know someone who has made just over 240"rwkw" with a GT2535 and someone who has made just over 260"rwkw" on stock RB25s using a TD05-18G on Dynapack hub dynos for what its worth. IanH on this forum used to run one on his R34 GTT This thread done before: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Td...&p=1557163#

I'd not completely rule out considering going a GT4088R or something of that sort if you're looking at 1.06a/r GT35Rs, the spool doesn't seem that wildly different - and you get the whole twin scroll thing going on as well as a fancy big whistley turbo I know I'd prefer a GT40R, though I like big turbos and I cannot lie.

You are making a wild assumption that I haven't taken these things into account. Seeing as you are enlightened - have a look for yourself at the compressor efficiency of a 52trim GT22 compressor and a 60trim GT28R compressor and bare in mind its for a 1.3litre motor in a car the owner wants solid 12s with for cheap and easy without too much lag. Shaft speed will be heathy, but not as much more than the GT28 as you'd think and the compressor efficiency actually is a bit more in favour of the GT22. A 1.3litre making under 200kw probably doesn't need all the turbine flow of a GT28 and the GT22 isn't really exactly what I'd call lacking in relation - so while the GT28 woTell me which you'd go for for an 1.3litre aiming for up to around 190kw @ fly? If you read my post properly you'd realise I had said "boost" where boost was relevant and "pressure ratio" where that was relevant, when having a discussion about such things I don't feel inclined to explain the theory behind every single thing I am talking about as I assume that others who participate in the conversation understand whats involved or will ask if they don't and assume the same of me. I am actually a little more on the side of relying on 1psi more boost than extensive work on the engine to try and make more power on lower boost, especially when talking about a 1.3litre - bear in mind that 1psi more boost doesn't just raise peak power, but the entire torque curve gets raised. When dealing with a little motor (or any motor really) every little bit of torque helps - look at 1/4 mile times for people running 1bar on GT30Rs and 1.2+bar on GT2535s on RB25s, you'll find the GT30Rs making a bit more power than GT2535s often trail the GT2535s unless the GT30R car has the turbo really humming to capacity. Area beneath the curve is where its at... And yes, full spool I mean where the target boost pressure is reached.

He said volumetric efficiency so I would have thought he was not talking cross purposes with what you are talking about? The VE curve seems to usually be a bit like a flat bell-curve looking thing, and is well worth taking into account if you want to work out where on the compressor chart the engine at x.psi will be roughly. There is no point working out what the potential airflow of the compressor is if the engine is not able to breathe all that air at the pressure ratio it can do so with. I remember arguing a mate of mine should get a I think it was a GT22 over a GT28 - was a while ago but for examples sake, for his stock head 4EFTE (1.3l Starlet GT motor) as an upgrade because while the GT28 could flow a higher peak lb/min it started dropping off at higher pressure ratios which the 4EFTE would need to run to be able to ingest that airflow with a relatively stock head. The GT22 however came into its own above 1.6bar of boost, and was not really any worse off up there than the GT28 (or whatever two compressors I was compraring) so he could have got the bonus of having the smaller compressor but at no cost of power for his application. I tend to target full spool being just before the peak comp efficiency area, peak torque at peak compressor efficiency and peak power before the choke line, where possible I guess drawing my "line" from 1/3rd to 4/5ths of the way across the map at the target nozzle pressure.

You'd really need a full rev range graph, I usually just use 95% at 1atmosphere as a thumb suck when perusing compressor charts.

The torque scale has been zoomed in on a bit which will fudge the relative drop a bit, if the numbers on the Y axis started at 0 then it'd probably look markedly flatter. The Dynapack software focusses the chart on the range of lowest to highest read value for torque and power to allow far closer analysis of the data provided, but invariably makes torque and power curves look more violent than they really are.

The .82a/r Garrett ones are perfectly nice to use, and I run a stainless direct replacement and it is definitely a noticeable improvement over the stock one but having said that, the stock one was definitely not bad. I had a look into cleaning up the stock one and using a dremmel there isn't really much more you can do other than port match, unfortunately in NZ we don't have the option of extrude honing these things. I run in the 270-280wkw on 1bar of boost on a Dynapack hub dyno with mine, so I definitely feel something is amiss with yours.

Dyno Dynamics are pretty much the lowest reading dynos used anywhere. Again, that doesn't mean they are more or less accurate - they just put smaller numbers out.

Couldn't disagree with this more - so bored of hearing Aussies say that. If any dynos could be said to read "untrue", its Aussie dynos. Low reading doesn't mean more true. Very much agreeing with that - not sure why sd9k is asking for advice and then basically ignoring it. Sd9k - you are LUCKY that you haven't blown your engine up running that kind of setup, the ECU is obviously trying to save it and with no help from the S-AFC. A Neo by no stretch of the imagination gives you a decent proper tune, and you shouldn't be running a bigger turbo like that with stock AFM/injectors/pump. I am pretty damn sure anything else you try at this stage will not work, a proper ECU and associated fuelling changes are the first things you should be considering. Really - you should have done that before changing the turbo if limited funds are an issue.

Just for interests sake, a twin 3" exhaust would have the same cross sectional area as a single 4 1/4" exhaust so its not actually as wild as it sounds. Depending of course on how wild you think 4 1/4" is

Thicker head gasket and it should be ok. I know of a few people who have run their RBs on 20psi just with a thicker head gasket and a decent tune in it. I run a GT30R and have kept it in the 1-1.1bar range and the car is at 150000km, having run up a good 30,000km on ~270rwkw and loving it still.

Sorry about that - though I think most of the blame should be pointed at one distinct person, when on forums it takes a single rotten apple with a bee under their bonnet about something and make claims to discredit a company or way of doing things when its not actually true people kindof have to make it clear that its not true to stop misinformation bleeding through the information superhighway. It ruins the thread, but realistically the moment people join a thread and start putting bollux in it - it has already lost its usefulness as a place to get information. The difference is that until people state otherwise people who find it won't necessarily know that its been hit with BS.

I know, why I said its impressive for what it is - still is (aside from power) more suited to drag runs than the R34 GTR mentioned here. Maybe a better example would have been "Put the R34 GTR's engine in Hi Octane's GTR". On that note, aren't they actually going to an RB30 now?

So RIPS has provided video of 8 and 9s cars he has built, dyno plots, information on what he has built and has a bunch of happy customers. You come to the thread with a large percentage of your total posts on this forum making completely unsubstantiated claims to try and discredit someone who is really putting NZ on the map by doing good quality work and producing results and happy customers. Its funny how the only people who bag RIPS aren't people who have had work done by him.... Considering that a lower spec RIPS motor (unreinforced block, stock crank etc) has blown away Croyden Supra's "street car" record in NZ by nearly a second which the Croydens car was running apparently 900-1000hp to do I don't know what you are on about. Would be quite keen to see this "1200hp" HT GTR dyno plot too, if you are so well connected. You are right, a 2.6 can do the RH9 thing - but it sounds like the guy would like something streetable too. Having spoke to Joe Kyle running a 2.6litre with a T51R in NZ and who has been trying for ages to crack the 9s mark (after years of trying is still .5s away from RIPS' only effort a much heavier car thats had a single shot at it) he says the car is a piece of shit to drive on the road, laggy as hell. I guess you get what you pay for. Can only imagine what the Blue R34 would have done on an Oz track with a bit of weight removed, its full power utilised and a clean run done using a sequential gearbox - I would bet more than a marmite sandwich it wouldn't be a fair race for the still much lighter Hioctane R32 GTR. Thats not a dig at the Hioctane car, massive effort with what its got.

Yeah its true - though from here it seems pretty much draconian what you guys have to put up with, over here they are looking at making externally venting blow off valves illegal now (already like that there?). Wtf, how does that save our planet? I have been dreading the requirement of catalytic converters but can fully understand and expect them to be a requirement.

Still seems? I dunno quite what you're getting at, but I don't ever recall the highest revs you can reach is a tangible indication of good performance. The whole 8.7 @ 162mph in a street car is however. If revs were the most important thing then we could just put little 2stroke motors in our cars High revs is one of the best ways of killing an engine fast...

You speak like the RB30 is a completely different family of engine to the RB26 - where as in fact the RB26 is an engine which is built as a compromise... it has basically been circumsized to fit within a "4litre" type motorsport engine size restriction, or 2.6ish litres times 1.6. Thats off the top of my head, so could be + or - a little but you get the gist. The RB30 however is the non politically correct, non circumsized and non castrated peak of the RB engine's range... not allowed to play with the others because its too big and scares the girls. In drag racing, street driving, or general "mines bigger than yours" beer fuelled discussions that class restriction is not in place - so the RB30 is free for the taking. Its not a low revving torque only thing, when they have an RB26 head on them the only thing it might not do QUITE as well as an RB26 is rev - which really doesn't matter as the RB26 is going to need to rev 15% harder to shift the same amount of air, so it NEEDS to rev yet ironically it has less grunt available to get it up to those revs. If I were going to go for a serious GTR, an RB26 head RB30 based engine would be my only option. Sure, people still with the 2.6litres will make a joke of it as though they are on at least even ground but the reality is despite what the girls tell you, size does matter... and if its bigger it doesn't mean you're less likely to know how to use it

I don't know - I used the best dyno plot I could find of yours using pump gas, and a few people have eluded to it being one of the best examples of power delivery for an RB26 around... I used the dyno plot from this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tw...le-t183511.html Apologies if I got it wrong, I had the impression that it had every intent of being a very aggressive setup. I realise you built the motor yourself, though I believe you do that for your crust so for all intents and purposes is a professionally built engine? Here is the thread I got the RIPS dyno plot from: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/95214-r-i-p-s-n...0whp-1-bar.html

Sorry it might be that my brain is on holiday today - but I'm not quite sure what you mean by you have decided. Does this mean you are going to do RB30? And if so you will soon, or will wait for a while first?

Whats wrong with the GT4094R? And do you mean Borg Warner S372? I'm not sure there is a S472 and the S372 is a completely nuts piece of kit - will make as much power as the highest power turbos mentioned here.

Bare in mind Dirt Garage's car was built to basically set records, the R34 was put together to be an awesome street friendly one- more about drivability and general accessible grunt. A better comparison would probably be one of a RIPS built street/drag car running an RB30DET with a GT4202R on it - here is a comparison of each of their pump gas tunes. (edit: I had the RB30DET T04Z overlayed initially but it looked like a lower powered big block V8 compared with a RB26 so it wasn't really a logical comparison)

Oh I suppose I could have posted a dyno plot of an R34 GTR with stock turbos vs the same car running an RB30DET with a T04Z: