Lithium

Ah ok sweet, cheers

Thats interesting, what turbine housing do you have? Mine looks a lot like an XR6-turbo outlet so I am guessing you didn't use a RB stock dump style dump pipe?

The .82 is pretty smooth too, on a 26 in my experience. Probably more to do with the fact the GT35 starts "windmilling" earlier than the T04Z and the build up onto boost is more progressive and generally earlier. If you have something that comes on and builds its boost later in the rev range it becomes much more noticeable as the later in the revs the torque ramps up, the more aggressively the power will ramp up and as such the more violent the power delivery. Most people notice (/ are more blown away by) change in acceleration moreso than outright acceleration, so cars with this ramp up in torque later in the revs generally feel much faster even if they aren't. Try cruising along at 4000-4500rpm in a car with a not laggy turbo and feed your foot down to full throttle at a firm steady pace (maybe over .5s?), vs stomping the foot down at the same revs. Some people will find the "feed down" method more dramatic despite the fact it would be left behind by the "stomp" method...

Awesome mate, glad to hear it worked out Where did you get the new actuator? Does it hold fairly steady now?

Do you have a before dyno plot from when it had the GT35? Will you provide an after when it has? It will be perfect for answering everyones current (and a lot of peoples future) questions if you can do an overlay of a .63 GT35R with a T04Z. The .63s aren't really as good as the .82s for a RB imho, but it will definitely give a real idea. "Smooth" definitely usually indicates a better power delivery.... coming on hard late is brilliant for making a car feel twice as fast as it is

Waste of money in my opinion, stock coils are perfectly fine. Why spend hundreds of dollars when some high voltage/temp (non-conductive) goo of some sort around the base of the coils will fix the issue of the spark earthing out via the cylinder head? $10 fix ftw.

Yeah the weight shouldn't matter unless you are wanting to estimate power - the time etc SHOULD be fairly ok if the phone is mounted well and the road is good etc. We tried out my mates Dynolicious setup on his iPhone and the results seemed all screwed though I had a look through the settings and the rollout was "0" etc which can make your 60ft/ET etc look worse than if you ran it at the strip. Check the config and see if the rollout is set to something sensible, 166kph should have you in the 13s. Things like GTimers come default with sensible rollout and "start timing" g-Force settings so are a bit more realistic from the outset.

You heard mine aye Bevan? Makes a noise of sorts though I think mine is quieter, was it the same thing? Mine has been doing its noise since I can remember (I remember panicking about it in 2005 when I noticed it from the outside of the car) but 4 years, >60,000km and 100kw on its still fine lol.

You can't know if its going to be without reading it!

Thanks for sharing that info, but I'm sortof missing what the point proves - you are comparing a turbo setup suited to 700hp with a turbo setup suited to 1100hp and saying "Look!! The 1100hp setup is laggier!". It has nothing to do with twins vs singles, with a pair of T67-25Gs on I'm sure the result will be similar. Running the runs with completely different gear ratios just makes it that little bit more pointless - interesting dyno plots, but not in the teeniest bit informative on the whole twins vs single topic.

The RB30 GTR I went in with a T04Z was laggier than that, but in real world terms definitely felt insane all around - if someone told you it was 1.5bar by 3500rpm you'd have no reason to doubt them

Holy cr*p can you? I actually struggle to believe that and I like to keep an open mind. I can help but figure you mean "high flowed stock turbos" as I have seen people do mid 11s on them but struggle to see it happen in a full weight GTR without spraying or something along those lines. Oh yeah the cars I know of which have done 9s on GT35Rs are running 1.06 but are proper GT35Rs, not running 66mm compressor covers - and they are mostly Mitsis, but the point is they have to make good power and be able to pick up strong into each gear to do that.

I quite deliberately never said GTR I am completely confident a street GTR would be able to do a 10 with a GT3582R though. Going by wrxkilla's 11.1 on 20psi on his first outing with it, imagine it running 25+psi on E85? There are GTS25ts well in the 10s with them, I've myself been in a stock bottom end (so running "only" 20psi) R33 GTS25t which ran a 10.6 with full interior and pump gas on a .82a/r rear end and the main problem with it was that I couldn't get any real impression of its acceleration on the street as with the road tyres it would get the rears scuffing even rolling onto the throttle in 4th gear As soon as it past 4000rpm in the first 3 gears under heavy throttle it would flick to rev-limiter because it overcame the tyres so violently.

I'm still astounded by the lack of love of the GT35Rs on here, I wonder what the story is - for AGES (and with good reason) they have been one of those turbos which is an "easy bet". They are for everyone else in the world a turbo which isn't excessively laggy, very responsive and can make a good amount of power. I've been in and/or drive cars with 1.8litre, 2litre, 2.5, 2.6 and 3litre engines of different sorts running them at anywhere from 270kw to 450kw (yes, 450kw @ wheels- 9second street car stuff in the right setup) and the only ones who said they'd have gone for something different were people who were after 300kw @ wheels tops and were told to get them by people who aren't that clued up on turbos but have in 90% of cases been correct about the choice as they have worked so well on so many other cars... There is a few Skylines running low 10s in Oz on GT35Rs, and at least one car I know of off the top of my head running 9s over there (and quite a few 9 and 10s cars over here running them) - how many 9 and 10s cars running T04Zs are there? Given they have been around for a while now, if they were that much better they'd be sticking out in the drag results threads etc around the place? All the EVO guys use them on their track cars over here, thats on little 2litre motors and often on tight tracks - hell I have been in a factory displacement EVO street car the owner uses for sealed sprints/hill climbs and that runs a .82a/r GT35R on pump gas. If he can get sufficient response out of it on his 2litre to beat out dedicated race cars etc etc (there have been GTRs running low mount twins etc at some of these events) - I don't know what you guys are doing with your 2.5 to 3litre engines to make them boring and unresponsive.

Good idea - start a poll for GT3076R, GT3582R and T04Z A .63a/r GT3582R will choke it a bit, I'd go a .82a/r on an RB26. I can understand why people would call the GT3582Rs "boring" as they are very competant about their power delivery, they don't "snap" onto boost - more NA in their power delivery instead of snapping onto full boost. I'd personally call a GT3076R a bit on the small side for a GTR.

Yeah I have seen that and it confuses me, the BW S374 spools as I'd expect something like that to on an RB - if not slightly better but a GT4088R taking until around 5500rpm is a bit weird. Its a one off graph where the GT40 is a lot laggier than usual, though takes nothing away from the S374. Its kinda amusing being told things I've looked into years ago like I am being presented with some kind of revelation, I got very near running a Holset HX35 on my car but decided on a Garrett GT3076R - more to do with packaging and convenience of the single scroll than anything else. I have no idea what you guys are doing with your GT35Rs, the ones I have driven are stupidly responsive once they are cooking. Maybe you are just keeping the revs higher (due to absolutely needing to) the whole time which will make it that much easier for the turbo to wind up on lift off then reapply of throttle or whatever.

I agree fully if you believe those dyno plots. I personally don't buy it, its comparing two cars with different setups from different dyno types with the GT35 dyno run "handicapped" with a calculated transmission loss because of an assumption on dyno reading differences and the car with the T04Z on it has bigger cams etc etc. It would be very interesting to see that same car with a GT3582R on it on that same dyno, I would put at least a couple of marmite sandwiches on the fact that the GT3582R would look a lot better than it does otherwise. I do however agree with your comments on the useable power band, once you are up and cooking it doesn't matter - its a case I have argued with SAUers about RB25 upgrades and the nana preferences often exhibited on here. Remember the GT35R isn't my personal preference for a GTR, I just believe out of the two options it best suits this persons requirements. I'd go a GT4088R if I was getting a GTR...

Yep agreed. The ECU won't be the problem, my mates TD05 setup did a 13 flat @ 110mph on the stock fuel system on ~14psi with a Link plugin ECU - was making full boost before 4000rpm no problem. Basically it came on boost much faster and made more power at the equivalent boost level with the same ECU.

As I have said before, from you describe about your experience with the GT35R makes me think that you probably had another problem with your setup or something. Me saying a T04Z is a dirty old T-series turbo is not an opinion, its a fact. HKS themselves have acknowledged that by calling it a "T04..." instead of a "GT..". No amount of you trying to cut down to your size people you know nothing about is going to change that. To keep you happy, lets pretend I have no idea what a car with a GT35R or a T04Z drives like because and consider what the point of the thread is in the first place - the guy is looking for 400kw for his ceiling power figure and the best possible power delivery... the T04Z is a bigger turbo and you yourself said its a few hundred rpm higher threshold and the GT35R is known to be able to crack 400kw fine - wouldn't it make sense that the turbo which builds boost faster on the way to making the same power would provide the best power band?

ARGH I meant TO4Z, the TO4Z isn't going to match the response... sorry. It was a gift though, I had to drink it sometime!

Exactly! People seem to think the T04Z is a new fancy pants thing, HKS have done a GREAT job with them and Garrett dealers have done well off the back of it. Before the "HKS T04Z" there were people around running the "Ball Bearing T67" but now suddenly all the Garrett guys call them "T04Z" and drill nice holes in the compressor cover to try and make them a bit more like the HKS T67. I mean T04R. I mean T04Z. Its a dinosaur turbo with not so dinosaur bearings, the GT3582R is a proper GT-series turbo... it has the superior aerodynamics, the same core technology, and the smaller wheels. There is no way the T04Z is going to match its response in an all things being equal situation.

Cheers - I am very confident it will, after I mentioned it a couple of places people have come out of the wood work saying they had done similar and NONE of them have yet had the problem come back - one of them are running >400kw @ wheels on coils that were previously misfiring. Who needs Splitfires? I am so glad I never went that direction as I'd be poorer for no gain haha.

Hello again everyone - I thought you guys might be interested in the resolution of this, the fix I settled on has so far (touch wood) worked real well. It is not intended to be a permanent fix, but I intend on rolling with it for a while to see if or how long it lasts as it works - and works better than any of my previous experiments on the "trying to fix the RB misfire" mission. The first plan of attack - try and make it a more familiar issue. This was easy, I put a stock RB25DET S2 coil loom and coils back in. The weird 2500-3500rpm misfire/dropping cylinders issue went away and I developed a 4500-5500rpm full load misfire, much like the one I had which forced me to start looking at things like wasted spark. Sweet! Next thing to do, try hair brained ideas to fix this issue for as little money as possible... so off to Repco to buy a tube of silicone, and cover the bottom of the coils in goo in the hope that maybe what was happening is the coil's charge decided it was easier to jump out to the cylinder head than to go and blow up the air fuel mixture the end of the spark plug was dowsed in. Picture of the aweful black gooey mess: Result?? The car drives better than ever before - no misfire whatsoever. Not one for the pretty fix fans amongst us, but perfect for those cheap bastards who think spending $1000 to fix something they suspect is caused by something simple.

Here is a dyno plot from a RIPS RB30DET setup running a Garrett T04Z that passes 180kw @ wheels before 4000rpm, definitely the most insane power delivery of any GTR I have been in. The dyno plot does it no justice, it feels like it pulls HARD from absolutely any revs - its nothing short of nuts.

I reckon there is a good chance your 5% difference estimation between the hub dyno and rolling road might be a bit off, almost to the point where they actually probably read about the same. If you look at the plots, notice the T04Z has more grunt at around 3000rpm than the GT3582R when they are just building boost? At pretty much any stage where they are running similar boost levels (the GT35 is actually running more at every point of the graph) the T04Z is making more power than the GT3582R but unless the car with the T04Z has a bigger motor, that is quite unlikely. It would be MUCH more likely for the GT35 to have more power at 3000rpm....