Lithium

Yeah, you have 12 points for 2 throttle positions - so 24 all up, 12 for high throttle and 12 for low throttle. Each one, you can preprogram the 12 positions - and the S-AFC2 makes a rough curve-to-fit to work out the appropriate adjustments in between. You could have 1 fixed adjustment from 1000-2400rpm (where the wastegate seems to open on a stock R33) and then get 2/3 adjustments between there and 4500rpm for a bit finer tune there for driving around, and crap all the left overs between 4500rpm - 7000rpm... as you probably want your finer tuning in your "operating" rev range for racing etc

Ahh ok - so the R32 actuator is a good (price wise) alternative The ultimate would be getting an electronic boost controller then, but the better actuator is going to make its life easier... when I eventually get that sorted.

There is an R32 GTSt being put together in NZ with an RB25DET motor at the moment which is a "street car" - is running a VERY high mount TA51 on it, I suspect that should be able to get out of the 300-400rwkw zone :wassup:

Update - I have an R32 GTSt actuator on my car now On "stock boost" I am running 10-11psi, seems to come on stronger - feels particularly meaty around 4000-4500rpm. I find it hard to tell if its any better up top, there is definately a LITTLE drop off in the high revs. It will be going on the dyno on the 21st August for a boost and power read out, to see what the difference (if any) really is

The air flow meter probably maxed out - mine reached around 5volts airflow on around 1bar... so I'd watch what I do with fuelling after the point that happens. Someone I know blew their RB25DET recently by not compensating for what happens after 100% flow of the AFM is reached - so more air, no more fuel, lean out - detonation, death :ghost:

My first ride in a Skyline that I can remember was in an automatic R32 GTS4 a few years ago. My impression? Highly disappointed. I couldn't believe it was a turbocharged 6cyl that was (trying) to push it. Handled well though, and nice to drive on the open road. Sounded nice too I haven't really got over my grudge for RB20DET GTS4s since either.... I had been in a lot of pretty modified V8s etc at this time though, and had high expectation based on what I had seen GT-Rs doing, and also from hooning around in a 300hp turbo Commodore :headspin:

No bad, only 2 weeks behind us!

The old 4AGZE is actually a really good motor, ports are good sized for boost induced power - the bottom end is very very strong, and the ECU and injectors are reasonable overrated for stock. Get a supercharged one, a semi decent intercooler, a turbo (EVO TD05's work real well I've heard) and an aftermarket ECU and you'd get a light car without the hassle of an engine transplant etc and over 300hp. I know plenty of people who have done it, with excellent results.. I also know a guy with an AW11 MR2 ( the early shape I assume you are talking about) with a 3SGTE from a late model 2l turbo MR2, it is happily a 12s car. Anyway, this is a Nissan orientated forum so I should shut up now

That might be because its either not out in Oz yet, or just because no one has seen it there yet :headspin: Considering I think the first 4 standard out OK, then got progressively shite - HO4 being the best quality utter shit I have ever seen - I think I am pretty neutral. High Octane Overboost is definately worth a watch. Don't ever watch HO4.

Yeah, this one is maybe 10% crap - which is still more than I'd like, but its better than the previous one with the trip to the US which was pretty much 99.9% crap. High Octane 4 is the 2nd worst car video I have seen (Max Power - Beasts From the East being the worst) and High Octane Overboost is the best...

What mods do you have? If its relatively stock I'd try an ECU + dyno tune and a lighter flywheel.

One time I had a flatmate go out on the booze for a night, and left his car keys at home - we wired his horn to the left and right indicators.. had him quite confused for a while :headspin: Do you live with smartarses? Thats the closest to that problem I have seen, sorry :Oops:

Thanks I am not sure what a "good launch" is rated as being with a GTS25t, but I run 255" tires on it and don't get much more than scuffing - just enough for it to not bog. 60ft times (based on the GTimers reporting) range from 2.05-2.09s for the 4s runs.

GTechs can read "optimistically" if not mounted firm against the windscreen, as they can lean back and as a result read higher gforce. 4.7s is dead on what a mate of mine was getting in his near stock R32 GT-R on mine, had 3" exhaust at the time. My R33 GTS25t does reliable 4.9s on a Passport GTimer with 211rwkw.

Sig: 14.1@ 101mph~ Pegasus (stock) While I am picking nits then, does my car count as stock? As mine has the same mods as yours had when you ran the 14.1 :Bang:

To be honest, not 100% sure - I just figured if you had leaky injectors o- then it would still be possible for the ECU to not pick up on any problem , as the ECU will be looking for anomolies in voltage or anything like that. Essentially, the injectors could be working as far as the electronic side - as with the ignition etc, but if the fuel is either pouring into the cylinder - or alternatively pouring around randomly then maybe that could be causing problems!? Do you smell any fuel smells around the engine bay or anything? Just throwing ideas around Sorry if they are a waste of time...

How on earth can 107.6mph = 109mph?? Especially when 13.68 equals 13.6? A Talk about optimism

Were the injectors tested before installation?

I agree completely, hence the fact that I am quoting my 14.1 @ 103mph time on my sig as my cars performance - despite the fact the car has a lot more power than it had when I did that time, as until winter ends there is no chance to prove its new potential Anyone who knows me will know that I don't like to give myself false hopes, that time was just used to get an indication of progress and I posted it because it was an interesting comparative result. Out of interest, the used road surface IS actually quite difficult to launch on (and there is the whole fact that being winter, its not going to be a nice sticky surface) - the launch method was virtually driving off from stationary and giving it gas when it was rolling (basically a 2000-2500rpm slip then floor it) which still resulted in some spin (despite quite good 255s)... but was easier to control from lower revs etc. 2.05 60ft indicates a very good launch, but because of the nature of the technique I wasn't carrying as much speed at the end of the 60ft as from slightly higher revs

I just had a bit of a test run on a friend Passport G-Timer to see what to expect roughly with my new mods, since running a 14.1 with catback and pod. I now have a cold air box with HKS filter, 3" catback exhaust, S-AFC2 and bleed valve with the car dyno tuned to run 11psi - running stock suspension and 255" rear tires. With the boost set to 10psi (don't entirely trust the bleed valve since I found it gets boost spikes on the road) the more notable results were: 0-60mph - 4.93 0-100mph - 12.05 0-60ft - 2.05 330ft - 5.78 1/8th - 8.78 @ 83.2mph 1000ft- 11.33 1/4 - 13.47 @ 105.3mph Run was done with mechanically sympathetic gearchanges, I think there would be a bit more in it

Nice! Let me know how it goes, I'll wait with interest Zahos: Just do what I do, wait for somebody elses misfortune and vulture them when they just want to biff the turbo :headspin:

Yeah, I know about that way around it - but I would rather not

Haha - I'd love to One of my friends blew his R32 RB20DET turbo recently, running ~18psi through it :headspin: This is how I am getting one so FREE, I just happened to think of it when I was pondering how to alter my boost actuation. How long have you been running 13psi through your stock turbo??? Thats pretty up there...

Hiya all If you've seen the "Pushing a mostly stock R33" you'd know where this question comes from. Anyway, I have an R33 Spec2 and would like to run ~2psi more boost and hold it properly. At the moment I have a GFB bleed valve controlling the boost level, but it bleeds off quite quickly after peak boost is reached - though I know that the Rb20DET turbos seem to run a couple psi higher boost than the RB25DET ones, so theoretically if I used the same boost control they do I should get similar boost behaviour - so wouldn't really need to rely on a bleed valve. I can get an R32 RB20DET turbo for free, does anyone know if I can use the actuator/actuator spring with the RB25DET turbo? Any thing I should know? Cheers in advance! Dan.

Yep, definately - the S-AFC2 has a knock readout, and I tend to mess around with settings on the dyno