Lithium

R33 GTS25t SpecII, Intake, Exhaust, 11psi and some tuning (sorry for the tiny pic)

There was a good percentage of a second difference in 1/4 mile times, basically the RX7 would get destroyed down the 1/4 and the trap speeds weren't listed. On the high speed bowl RX7s visibly reel in R34 GTRs, and while I can't remember the exact speeds - the RX7s had a measurably higher top speed over a measured distance.

I personally would go the Series 8 RX7, the compromise of cabin space and POTENTIAL reliability issues (not a problem with a good tuner and maintainence) not being enough to put me off. As a actual performance package the RX7 feels more balanced to me, light weight, good handling without the need for 4WD, an engine with the equivalent displacement of an RB26DETT (and just as much willingness to make power, not to mention happier pushing large turbos), obviously looks good, and after all that basically better peforming in many ways than anything short of a NurSpec R34 GT-R or NSX-R.... anyone who has watched Best Motoring videos from Japan would have seen the RX7s in stock form beating the non N1-type R34s on everything but 1/4 mile times - giving away the 1/4 mile times due to traction, not acceleration. I have driven a fair range of cars, and I'd say don't knock the Series 8 unless you have actually driven them - they are HEAPS of fun. I'm also not putting down the GT-Rs, as much as anything it comes down to personal choice....

Yeah, a RB20DET + TD06 running .65bar and making 300hp will not be as fast as a RB20DET + RB25 turbo running closer to 1bar and making 300hp....

Being that its a new record, not many - if any!

Actually the opposite, it takes a badly matched turbo to do that - at least one that is badly matched to the engine it is bolted on to. This is the reason you can just leave the same exhaust wheel on a turbo and bolt on bigger and bigger compressors to move more and more air into the engine. A very efficient turbo strictly speaking would be PERFECTLY matched to the engine, shoving just the right amount of air for the engine into it over a wide rpm range.

Entitled to opinions maybe, but have you heard of the phrase "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say it"? There was nothing constructive about what you said. I know quite a number of people with EVOs that would probably make you cry if you went for a ride in driven hard.

Haha - while that is being mentioned, I have discovered that 10psi -> 11psi is the threshold where my car moves from being able to go into second (I dont flat shift) and get the rear wheels scuffing but still accelerate hard, and being able to go into second and start a fairly impressive second gear burnout

I'll have to check that out when it gets to NZ..

Thats pretty much what I aspire to getting, I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing one myself - but they sound good.

I run mine on about 10-11psi MAX and I am quite happy with the performance of the car at that boost level... if I want more power then I will probably just go for a larger turbo and sell on my still healthy R33 turbo, and know I can get that much more power reliably

To be honest, aside from the fact that I am in NZ and you are in Oz (currency, and that certain parts are more available, and others less on this side of the Tasman), I couldn't really say off the top of my head. I haven't looked at NA mods for a Skyline, being that mine is a 25T - and my previous mods were all for a 4cyl. Realistically the homework on pricing should really be up to you - it would be easier for you to find out the prices... you can pick the parts you like most etc, as that is a whole new discussion that could be had. Off the top of my head, I'd budget $10k and then go from there, you SHOULD be left with change.

Damn, I wrote a big response to Viscount but it seems my post has disappeared, or never actually saved properly!? Anyway, yeah - the compression, the exhaust, the intake and the exhaust manifold will be either incompatible or inappropriate for turbocharging. I'd recommend one or the other, a turbocharged RB25 that is in its peak between 4500-7500 is going to be a lot more extreme than the scope of this thread

The way things are at the moment, with both the RX8 and the 350Z - the manufacturers have given themselves room to improve and get feedback on what people want more. Unfortunately if they released the perfect package straight off, they wouldn't be future-proofing themselves... though it also means the customers (or journos??) get to have their 2c input into the design based on their reactions of the 1st generation of each.

I personally don't like the idea of a 4cyl in the BMW, I am used to and prefer the sound of a nice tuned sounding 6cyl coming from them.... one of my mates has a 3-series with a 1JZGTE in it putting out 218kw @ wheels and that goes plenty well

Sweet, with good driving 11s should be quite doable! SOLID 11s even.

Seeeeeeeee?

Interestingly enough I pick the R33, and also for all the things you say above :Oops: My car usually gets better economy than my friends (who the majority of have R32s), is quicker than most of the R32 GTSts, is more stock (a comparative performing R32 GTSt has had more spent on it including purchase price than mine + mods - but then the prices in NZ might be different) and runs less boost than most of them, and is a much newer car. On the down side, the R33s need bigger parts to get more performance - having a bigger motor and a heavier curb weight. Where an R32 GTSt can upgrade to an R33 turbo (which I guess brings it closer to an R33s territory) an R33 needs something big, or 2 of them

If its anything like the shrill whine/squeel that mine has recently developed at a similar boost level - I think or at least hope its because of a slight exhaust manifold leak I have recently discovered....

Yeah, you have 12 points for 2 throttle positions - so 24 all up, 12 for high throttle and 12 for low throttle. Each one, you can preprogram the 12 positions - and the S-AFC2 makes a rough curve-to-fit to work out the appropriate adjustments in between. You could have 1 fixed adjustment from 1000-2400rpm (where the wastegate seems to open on a stock R33) and then get 2/3 adjustments between there and 4500rpm for a bit finer tune there for driving around, and crap all the left overs between 4500rpm - 7000rpm... as you probably want your finer tuning in your "operating" rev range for racing etc

Ahh ok - so the R32 actuator is a good (price wise) alternative The ultimate would be getting an electronic boost controller then, but the better actuator is going to make its life easier... when I eventually get that sorted.

There is an R32 GTSt being put together in NZ with an RB25DET motor at the moment which is a "street car" - is running a VERY high mount TA51 on it, I suspect that should be able to get out of the 300-400rwkw zone :wassup:

Update - I have an R32 GTSt actuator on my car now On "stock boost" I am running 10-11psi, seems to come on stronger - feels particularly meaty around 4000-4500rpm. I find it hard to tell if its any better up top, there is definately a LITTLE drop off in the high revs. It will be going on the dyno on the 21st August for a boost and power read out, to see what the difference (if any) really is

The air flow meter probably maxed out - mine reached around 5volts airflow on around 1bar... so I'd watch what I do with fuelling after the point that happens. Someone I know blew their RB25DET recently by not compensating for what happens after 100% flow of the AFM is reached - so more air, no more fuel, lean out - detonation, death :ghost: