MANWHOR3

that was me. I've asked many times and no one seems to know. It's as if the guy has put power steering fluid on top, and it just sits ontop of the other like oil on water.

Hahaha, abo, you're funny. I saw this old square pulsar driving around chatswood yesterday. It was painted with matt black house paint with a brush. Funniest bit, some young p plate drivers thinking they were sick with their subwoofers.

Any normal smash repairer will do it for around $100. That is not a cheap price even. not mates rates no nothing. If you know the right people, like maybe some of those mentioned above, you can get it cheaper and better. I reversed my parent's car into a bin that was just under the height of the bootlid so I couldn't see it. But I cracked the spoiler. Bought one from the wreckers and got it painted so I wouldn't get nagged by my parents. Walked up to hornsby smash repairs - 100. Absolute smash repairs - 110$. I got hornsby smash to do it. I wasn't expecting a goodd job, just your average daily driver sort of repair job. But suprisingly, it was perfect, good as factory and I am very picky. If you were seriously contemplating doing it yourself, get a spray can, and try and spray an old computer case or something and see how shit it looks. Then you'll never try and spray something with a can ever again.

I have a clutch that i'd like to put in my car. I had the last clutch changed by a mechanic, and basically, in short, I don't wanna pay 300 to have it changed. I've changed other things in the car like suspensions etc. I don't think it's very hard as such to change the clutch, the only thing i'm worried about is the awkardness. So how awkard was it to do it on the floor? I imagine your car was on stands, so you don't have a lot of room etc. Also, how did you manage the weight of the box? DId you let it down on the trolley jack?

Sorry waz, wasn't trying to start an argument, just expanding on what ams said above. Also, jetdat, I wasn't talking about you mate. I was laughing at the bloke I spoke to from ultimate auto trim who said it was 50% leather, 50% plastic.

Basically, 20s are so big, that it's almost impossible to keep the rolling diametre the same (on a skyline anyways). 19s are still really massive, if you really must go for big wheels. Run it in a tyre calculator, but i have never seen any profile less than 30.

hahaha. I love it how the guys say it's a mix of 50% leather 50% plastic. I said to them leather is not like cake mix ingredient. You can't just mix it with plastic. Their thing is totally synthetic. It's not '50% leather'. But yeah, if it gets down to 400, i would seriously consider it if I didn't have to pay $50 postage on top. but is that with the wrinkle too? probably not. so it's more like 400+50 postage+50 wrinkle, which ends up being $500. not so cheap anymore.

350$ seat covers i'd buy. 550, I would not. not worth it for plastic. Someone please give AMS some stock r33 covers

I was in the same situation as you. i'm 3rd year law. exams are really hard. so I love procrastinating to the max on sau.

all pms replied

Stormy. You get what you pay for. I paid over 30 for my car imported from japan myself. But this was years ago when they were very new. Do I feel ripped off? no way. all the skylines I see all around the place are all banged up. in shit condition. I would not buy an r33 for 11-13k. My friend just bought an immaculate condition r32 for 14k. now that's something I wouild buy. If I was to buy an r33 today, i'd be looking to spend at least 20. but hey, that's just me. I like cars that look like they're brand spanking new inside, outside, engine bay, undercarriage. Not a single door dent. No swirlies in the paint. Let me give you an example. I have another friend. bought an auto r33 gtst for 11k. He thought that he was really smart. This is how the story played out: The paint was looking pretty tired. so he got a respray - 3k. total is now 14k. The engine blew after 3 months. 5k rebuild - he did all the work himself. now totals 19k. manual conversion 1k (parts were purchased really cheap) now totals 20k. now, at the end of the day, he still has a pos 93 car. The chassis and all the components have done almost 200000ks. The suspensions are all worn. The bushes are all worn. The diff open wheels. steering rack has play. Fixing all this stuff would probably push the price over 25k, and it'll still be a 93 model. You could pick up a nice sII for around 20k. I know which one i'd take, and i'm sure there are others who would agree with me

It's only an r ugly poo (32), grab it with a pair of multi grips.

Just to add, the reason why this happens is because it's different to a filament bulb. when the filament one gets old, it 'blows' which means no more light. Xenon bulbs don't actually have a filament, so they can't blow. But a combination of the gases escaping, and also electrode migration reuslts in this happening.

that usually means the bulb is worn. bite the bullet and ahve it replaced and never look back. it's not that expensive. Although discharge lamps last a lot longer than filament bulbs, nothing lasts forever.

I get so scared doing mountain twisties with these pedals. Just driving around the street, sometimes, the brake and clutch pedal will come lose and fall down and you can't press the pedal properly. They are razos believe it or not. They came with the car. From what I understand, razos aren't cheap. For that price, I would much rather pay a bit more and get a set of these, that clip on as stock and will never give you troubles. I can tell you that they are definitely not R-ugly poo (32), or r33 pedals, as they came with the rubber ones.

when i didn't know which places were good, i tried pedders.They knew less about skylines than the japs know about common-bogan-dores

Ok, What they said above about the polishing is correct. A haze is what you want. If you put more on, you'll just end up killing yourself buffing it off. If you want it thicker, do it twice instead. Trust me on that one. Try it on a small spot if you want and put lots on, it'll cake up. BUT cutting is a total different story. Because the orbital buffer pad is so big, you don't want to leave any of it dry. Don't be scared and cheap not to use enough of the solution, otherwise you'll burn your paint or swirl it more. Apply generously so the whole pad has stuff on it. I dunno what orbital buffer you bought, but there are different ones. There are ones that just spin, and there are ones that vibrate. Doens't make a difference really. Some spin faster, some slower. WHATEVER YOU DO, make sure you don't push down hard!!!! You will scratch the shit out of the paint. Let the machine do its work. It will cut very quickly. make sure you keep it moving. don't leave it on one spot for obvious reasons. hope that was helpful. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. If you have another car you can try it on first, I suggest you do so. maybe if one of your family members has an r32 or something, rip that one up. cheers

What ams means is that stock fabric covering the seat. Believe it or not, it is actually just a seat cover (one that fits very well, just like the leather ones). It's only held on by a few metal rings underneath and does come off.

Also, I've tried a search and havevn't found anything after reading through like 20 pages of stuff.

I don't think it uses power steering fluid. My previous owner thought the same thing. He put the red stuff in, and it's sitting on top of the old stuff. The old stuff is a dark colour.

Just to test the difference a cat makes, I used a straight through pipe from a friend for a few hours. Compared to the stock compliance cat, it made noticeable difference. If I can feel it, i'm assuming the difference is about 5-10kw. There was also flaming and popping, which was fun. But I'm not willing to risk a massive fine. I got a stainless mesh cat, and it feels the same as the straight pipe. Obviously it will still be more restrictive than straight pipe, but it isn't noticeable, so maybe 1-2kw difference. oh... If you do like the flaming and popping, my car is running ultra rich in its untuned state, and I have got it to flame through the stainless cat.

oh, mine does this. I guess it's normal then.

Basically, scratch x won't fix it. When I first bought my car, I didn't really know what was good and what wasn't, so I wasted about 500$ trying almost every product at the car store. I found scratch x to be more like a bandaid. It sort of fills the scratches a bit to restore optical consistency. You can achieve a similar result by waxing it. It'll make the scratches a lot less evident. If you want to 'fix' it, the only way it can be done is to 'cut'. That will take off some of the clear coat so it is level again. Basically, the clear coat is moderately thick. So one light cut won't kill it. BUT, I would try and avoid scratching it too many times, becuase repeated cutting is no good

what I did is after I removed the torx thingy, I replaced it with an allen key one. I know it was pretty pointless, but I had the perfect size ones at home...

I did some research into this about a year ago, and i'll tell you what I learnt. basically, I was looking into whether you would gain any benefits from running the nismo cap. what happens, is, with your normal cap, when the system reaches 0.9 bar, the cap releases coolant, which then lowers the pressure. By having the system at a higher perssure, it can cool more. Basically, if you're not driving it until it gets so hot that it releases coolant, you won't gain anything. I've tried my hardest to release coolant before, and i've never managed to before my oil gets too warm.