RB30-POWER

not sure why it is overboosting, have a good look at the gate and actuator. there is a jpc vl with 0.63 housing on gt35 running 9's (370+rwkw), so it can be done, just not the obvious choice. (or logical, but who can argue with the results) the turbo you want would be a gt3076, good front to rear ratio with regards to gas flows, no point of the gt35 82mm front with a gt30 rear wheel. aka gt3082 bad match

all you want is a hose connected from the intercooler pipe to the actuator, simple, because it is. block the bov return vac pipe fitting thing you have, use a bit of hose and jamb a tight fitting screw/bolt into the end if you don't have a proper blanking plug for the vacuum nipple. it will overboost the way you have it up there, because the pressure will bleed off into the bov return pipe before it gets to the actuator.

you just spray it on the belt with the car idling/running, it's that simple. will quiten them up, usually only needed with old belts that have gone hard to quiten them as a bandaid fix, kind of masks the slipping rather eliminating it from what i can gather, once the lube dries up in a few weeks, you will need to spray more and go around a never ending circle. what brand are the belts? i've never had a problem with most brands, but genuine belts can offer some extra peace of mind for a few extra bucks also. if you are 100% sure they are torqued properly, you might have an accessory load (alternator/water pump etc) or idler bearing that is causing drag due to faulty bearings, but i would double check the belt quality and torque setting first as nine times out of ten this is the problem, especially your decription of cold start only. there is a fair load on the alternator belt, it has to spin a fully loaded alternator after initial cold start, plus the viscous fan is locked up on the initial cold start until the fluid flow inside and releases it plus the water pump, so it does need to be tight and some crap belts tend to stretch a little, or more so settle in, so it may take a couple of retorque to get it correct. if it was power steer, it would squeal as you turned the steer wheel when cold. likewise if the aircon is off, no load is on the aircon belt. so alternator belt deff the one to look at.

it comes in from the small side hole, into the filter then exits through the centre hole and into the main oil block gallery think about it, the pressure relief valve ball works like so. if the oil is running through the side hole into the filter then exit via the centre hole and through the gallery behind the relief valve the pressure on both sides of the ball valve is equal so it stays closed and the oil goes through the filter. if the filter was blocked, the oil would enter the side hole and not get through the filter, so the pressure on this side of the ball valve would be high and no pressure would be on the back of the valve, causing it to open and bypass the filter. (dirty oil is better then no oil, nissan decided) hope that helps a little. (might be hard to picture because on the twin cams, the oil goes through the factory oil cooler also, but on the sohc engine, the ball valve is directly in that bigger hole you see, should be blocked if you have factory oil cooler on the engine as the relief valve is in the oil cooler instead)

it should be off at idle and turn on when you open the throttle. make sure the tps voltage is 0.5v at idle, if not adjust the sensor until it is. also if you think it is the problem, just disconnect the electrical plug that goes to the solenoid and find out if it still hunts. my guess would be, either incorrect base idle setting via aac valve screw or vacuum leak somewhere, could be a blown off hose, split hose or even a leaky atmo venting blow off valve.

maybe a cylinder leak down test would be a better start, before you go wasting money on head gaskets and stuff, just to confirm the fault. is the radiator cap ok? if it's not holding pressure, the coolant will pump into the expansion resevoir and boil away. headgasket job would be close to 1k with all genuine gaskets, maching, labour etc.

40k is standard for most cars, so it's worth sticking to that interval, if you are unsure when it was done last might as well change it for peace of mind.

please don't tell us it's some chinese ebay knockoff.

hard to say, more then likely it is either leaning out or running very rich, both will drop the power, a dyno would confirm either situation and go from there, but check for any leaking/split intercooler pipes etc that could cause the mixtures to be out and also crappy pod filters that are either getting sucked closed or need a good clean. only other thing i can think of is, do you run a quality premium 98 octane fuel in your car? if not, the ecu could be pulling ignition timing if it's pinging from low octane fuel which will also drop the power a little.

senders play up a fair bit too. only way to know for sure, is to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the block oil pressure sensor port and have a look at the actual pressure before you panic to much. is it only on idle rpm that it sits low or all the time?

it will only trigger 0.2-0.5sec after the red, so if it was orange when you went through you are safe.

hit 88mph and let us know what happens

waste of time and money, if you can show me that your stock throttlebody is causing a significant pressure drop at mild to medium power levels i will buy it for you, how's that? you will end up with a touchy throttle at initial opening and doughy as it gets towards wot.

yes, if you fit r32 actuator, you will get 10psi flat without solenoid hooked up, or with solenoid you might end up with 12-14psi at the switchover point and above which will cause the factory ecu airflow limiter to kick in, if you have standard ecu. (retard timing, run rich) boost reading, should be taken from the plenum or post intercooler for best results. go on the turbo or pre intercooler and the boost will be lower at the engine because of the pressure drop alot of cores will have across them. (factory coolers atleast) one last thing, only reason you can have boost creep is if the wastegate is a.) to small or b.) wastegate flap is not opening or gases are restricted. i.e. if it's a standard turbo, that dump pipe is a piece of shit, stock dumps/turbos, do not boost creep.

if you wait i can go down the shed and have a look tomorrow and tell you if the lines will fit 100% before you remove your existing turbo. you will need to fit an rb25 line anyway for the oil feed as it has a restrictor hole in the banjo for the ballbearing turbos. should pick a set of rb lines for bugger all from the trading section of this forum and they will fit for sure once you rotate the centre housing to suit the vl manifold. you said you have already sorted the custom dump pipe out?

buying the turbo is one thing, then you have oil/water lines, exhaust, ecu mods, injectors, fuel pump all needed to support the upgrade. all adds up so quick $ wise. you didn't mention if you had other mods to support a turbo upgrade?

206mb download, better be worth it, haha

plenty of additives you can add to the cooling system, run it for half and hour then dump it, flush it and refill with new coolant. just have a look at the local parts place. repco, bursons etc. there is a drain under the turbo you can undo, but it is a bitch of a spot. my advise, remove thermostat housing and thermostat when you want to flush it with the hose, otherwise the thermostat will block the water from draining out. other option is to pop off a heater hose at back of engine. whatever is easiest really.

z32 with no tuning will make it run lean, so lean it may not even run well at all, so that is not option, unless you retune to suit. another afm for rb20/25 should only be $50 or so, what i sold my last one on here for.

you can hear it for 5sec or so as it primes. this is normal.

unless you put a stock vl t3 back on there you will need to get custom lines made up and custom dump pipe. twin cam rb turbochargers will not direct fit to the sohc engine and are a bit on the small side anyway.

royal purple isn't a full synthetic. still an ok oil to use but as long as you don't go trying to get extended milage out of it..

just run mobil 1 0w-40. a genuine full synthetic, meets bmw LL spec for 25k oil changes. and is the oil specifically specified and used by the R35 GTR, so say no more. $90 for 5L seems to be the RRP.

i always let the pump prime, then crank/start. the fuel system will hold residual pressure for a couple of hours if the checkvalve in the pump is good, so no real need to prime again if the car has only been off for a short period, it should fire straight away.

write a complaint to the police ombudsman. do what you can if you know the approx date and time, so they can identify said copper. no need for cops to be harassing you like that.