RB30-POWER

whats it like down low, any punch or still a little doughy?

you do not need a new belt unless its damaged from being way way to tight or way way to loose. put the engine on no1 top dead centre, make sure the timing marks on the crank and cams all line up still. crack the tensioner, tension belt as required, re-torque tensioner. turn engine over twice and re-check belt tension is correct before putting it all back together.

all types as it says, 4cyl and 8cyl as well. the cars i'm bringing will not be skylines.

assume your running 98octane fuel when you boosted it up?

can you elaborate on what classes there is and what classes have prizes?

Hey Guys, Just clearing out some old car parts I have lying around here. All prices + post, pm if your interested in anything. Cheers Item 1) RB25 Intake Pipe w/bov plumback pipes (as pictured) $40 Item 2) Silicon Hose 90deg Bend 3" to 3" Black BRAND NEW/UNUSED $20 Item 3) Silicon Hose 90deg Bend 3" to 2.5" Black BRAND NEW/UNUSED $20 Item 4) Silicon Hose 90deg Bend 2.75" to 2.75" Blue BRAND NEW/UNUSED Blue $20

your clutch can not have a noise if your foot is not on the pedal, its spinning as an entire assembly locked up to the flywheel and front of the gearbox assembly. wrxhoon is 100% correct on theory of operation and diagnosis. if its only there when the pedal is not pressed in, its either normal noise from the gearbox (they all make a bit), or the input shaft bearing is worn/noisy or its the gears on the input and cluster gears have the hard casing worn off the teeth and thus causing excessive noise. not worth worrying about really if you know you have the correct oil and amount in the box, all you can do is add some nulon g70 gearbox/diff additive to quiten it down a little bit.

revs should rise when the aac connector is plugged back in after adjusting the base idle as per the procedure i posted above, by around 50rpm or so (will hear it change when plug it back in) if no change is present either the aac valve is faulty or the driver circuit in the ecu. easy way to test the aac valve is to unplug it and put +12 across the terminals and listen if it clicks fully open (will hear it click if its working) to test the ecu driver circuit get a injector noid light (from bursons/repco $15) and plug it into the aac harness plug and see if it on or flashing.

was interesting to read old mate post the other day, that he had to remove the head again to fit a thicker gasket after a rebuild on rb25 because the engine was detonating and not able to make the power it was previously. was well over 500hp or so from memory, thread is on here somewhere. depends on what power you want and what fuel you plan to use i suppose. but the average build/engine will not have a problem at all with such a little increase in cr.

still cheap compared to other good alternatives but, no matter how you look at it.

could be the pcv valve sucking excessive blowby in when the car decelerates and engine inlet manifold vacuum is high. pcv valve is closed under boost. otherwise if the car is cold and has atmo bov, could be dumping fuel in on decel because of the unmetered air exiting the bov, when its hot it should fuel cut altogether (turn off injectors) on decel so you shouldn't get fuel smoke from atmo bov.

i tried to run my bros car off the clock the other day (private road) and was suprised when it hit a massive cut at 180clicks but was only at 5500rpm in fourth gear. so it can't be rev limit, has no speed limit set or speed signal even hooked up for that matter and has rich and retard limit removed and air flow meter that is no where near peaking out. my verdict is it must have been the standard rubber inlet sucking close, all i can think off for such a massive cut off. if you have standard ecu but, could be anything to do with that.

my suggestion is if you want to run 20+ psi, make sure you have a 360deg thrust bearing rather then the standard 270deg, then you will be safe. but it more so comes back to actual compressor and turbo trims/wheels as to how fast they are actually spinning to produce a certain amount of boost pressure on an engine, but the above is a fairly good rule in general.

yeah ok, just looked for you. warm engine to full operating temp disconnect the aac valve connector adjust idle screw to 900rpm (factory spec, higher if big cams in engine) turn off vehicle reconnect aac valve make sure base ignition timing is good too at the same time.

clean the aac valve and idle assembly and adjust base idle rpm as per workshop manual. if base idle is to low then the car drop rpm because the idle valve will target around 50% duty cycle by default when throttle is closed, once rpm drops below idle target rpm it will have to increase the duty cycle to bring idle back up, which gives you that result. if the base idle is set correctly then what you get is when you pull up the idle valve is at 50% duty cycle and because you have set the idle screw to the correct idle rpm, the car will not drop past this point, in fact it will either increase or decrease rpm a bit, but it will be in the control range its intended to work, not making a big adjustment which takes some time. (in reality on a few hundredths of a second, but still time for it to drop and notice it on guage) NOTE: if you have atmo bov will also cause this problem in alot of cases. (to set idle on rb26, you either have to disconnect aac valve connector or disconnect throttle position sensor, search should say which method for rb26, if you get stuck wil find out for sure)

lol, fuel pressure reg control fuel pressure only. all the factory regs work at the same pressure AFAIK. increasing the pressure will make you lose power because it will run way to rich, not to mention cost you in the wallet. decreasing fuel pressure will make you lose power because it will run way to lean, not to mention potentially blow your engine. i suggest you do more research before attempting to randomly change stuff with little understanding or else it may really cost you, its easy to destroy engines if the systems are not understood properly.

only downfall is working on the prick boxer engines, wouldn't matter if you don't spin your own spanners, but dam, plus you couldn't show your mates your engine bay, because it looks like one big brothel. my00 is the pick if you want the best looking shape, albeit dated looking now, but it also got the 4 pot brakes plus the other little things the early pov pack wrxs lacked. they would honestly have to be starting to date by now, unless you can find a well looked after low km model. r33 would technically be the better car and better built in most areas, especially chassis wise (early wrx are shit in this area), but i have seen some abortions of r33 as well.

wastegate creep intensified by the high back pressure in that housing? changing preload will not change crap, should be used to set max flapper opening only. tried a heavy duty 14psi actuator or such?

last time i heard this sort of problem was here http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...light=2jz+power possibly no relation to your fault but...

ahh adelaide, then you would know of darrens/JetR31 sohc rb30 gt42 over 600hp at the treads on pump fuel r31 then? did you buy this head of luke in qld at all?

the coolant temp sensor, acts as a choke so to speak, when the car is cold it needs more fuel and a higher idle to not stall. if you give the ecu a false signal (like a faulty temp sensor), telling the ecu its cold it will run rich and have a high idle even if its actually warm. the coolant temp sensor is the two pin connector alongside the single wire sensor (for dash guage) near the top radiator hose on the engine inlet manifold. can you measure the voltage at the battery whilst the car is running at idle and also rev engine to 2000rpm and check the voltage. 15v is rather high, but it might just be the multimeter is low quality and not calibrated properly, if you rev it up and it doesn't go over 15V like at idle, we will assume its just a bad reading multimeter, if the voltage goes well over 15V it might have a faulty regulator in the alternator causing overcharging.

only if it has duty cycle % measurement. you can try and measure voltage, but the multimeter may not be fast enough. if you measured voltage and it was 100% on you would measure full battery voltage, if you measured say 6-8v you would know the valve is being driven at less then 100% as it should be, it should be driven at almost 0% if the idle is higher then what its target value is. (very low voltage measured) it will also target high idle if it thinks the coolant temperature is low as well, maybe there is no fault but it thinks the cars is cold and trying to target 1200rpm, does it uses much fuel blow smoke or runs fine? (check with consult would be ideal if you have access to it) coolant temp sensor specs can also be found on this site and can be checked. because from what you are describing, its not a vac leak, its whenever you hook up the aac valve its being driven 100% fully open, but why is what you need to find out.

could also be the globe filament shorted to earth or across the park lamp filament. start by changing or atleast properly checking the globes then do the wiring checks. if you have a boot mounted light in spoiler check that wiring hasn't chaffed through as well.

spring missing from aac valve, i.e. when removed is the valve able to be pressed in and spring back out on it own? ecu could be f**ked causing 100% duty cycle meaning its fully open all the time or a short circuit to earth will do the same, so check the loom isn't shorted to earth on the ecu switched side/pulsed wire side. if you have a multimeter that can measure duty cycle put it across the wires on the valve and see.

drag it and check your mph.