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Oosh

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  1. Oosh

    hoffmobile

    From the album: Oosh's Gallery

  2. have a look at the rubber, see if it's perished, or just a new std one. can't cost much, put it on, and see.
  3. Take a good look at your radiator cap.
  4. I had intermitant power steering problems due to low battery voltage, the rest of the car was fine but, it was too low to operate the solenoid properly. Was especially hairy when things suddenly went hard mid-way thru a corner! The hard-steering co-incided with the hicas light flashing, perhaps put yours back in and check it out, and check your voltages ofcourse.
  5. add glorias to the list, do stageas count? how about? Nissan + Factory (petrol) Turbo + 4 Doors = OK Anyways I'll be there.
  6. Are you 100% it's wheel bearing noise, not gearbox or diff, have you jacked up the rears and given them a 'wobble' to see what shape the bearings are in?
  7. My guess is it's possible, but you'll need to pull the whole dash out and have all the motors from the digi setup, those sliders most likely use physical linkages to the flaps/valves etc.
  8. I've done Deep creek, it's a bit "agricultural", i wanna give the one at Kuitpo a go!
  9. yeah i'll be in, but make sure you keep the locale private (only send by PM), head over SA forum way and lets thrash out the details. cheers, - Ash.
  10. Oosh

    rowdyslide

    From the album: Oosh's Gallery

  11. Every bend causes a slight pressure drop, additional length/volume detrimentally affects throttle response (NOT the same as lag), so yes that would be worse off. But by how much? Well not a lot, i think it looks quite neat and it gets extra point for being different.
  12. I've heard of using diesel oil, not diesel IN oil, but i couldn't tell if it's a good idea or not.
  13. Woefully ineffecient, the extra amount of electrical current needed to cool suffuciently, would FAR outway potential engine power gains from the cooler inlet charge. But this isn't the thread for it.
  14. It's in reference to computer heatsinks, but is 100% valid to this discussion, Q&A article taken from http://www.dansdata.com/io042.htm (also published in the Atomic Magazine). Is black better? Recently, as part of our electronics course, we learned about the properties of heat sinks. The course notes (and exam mark schemes) claim that to make a heat sink more efficient it should be painted matte black. I understand that this would make it more efficient, but my friend and I wondered why CPU heat sinks are not painted matte black? Most other heat sinks (attached to amplifiers etc) seem to be painted in this fashion, so why not CPU heat sinks? Peter Answer: Your course notes are right, and they're wrong. A black object will, all things being equal, radiate heat better than one of any other colour. However, painting a shiny heat sink black may do nothing, or less than nothing, for its thermal performance, because the layer of paint acts as an insulator. The black colour must be an integral quality of the heat sink material, or a very thin, thermally conductive layer on the outside; black-anodised aluminium is a perfect example of a good black heat sink material. It's possible to put a useful thermal black patina on copper by putting it in a hot sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride solution bath (also useful for disposing of corpses), but that's neither a quick nor an easy process, so people usually only bother doing that for copper that's being used as a thermal absorber, as in solar water heaters, not on heat sinks. This is because the colour of the heat sink matters less and less the more air you move over it. If the sink's hanging in vacuum (like the heat radiators on spacecraft that stop their own waste heat from boiling them) then it must be matte black; if it's sitting on earth being cooled by convection then it should be matte black; if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan* then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is. Again, all things being equal, a shiny aluminium heat sink with a fan on it won't work quite as well as a black one - but the difference will be small enough that the extra marketability of the shiny heat sink is likely to be the deciding factor. A shiny fan-cooled copper heat sink, which can't easily be made black without pointless insulative paint, will work better than an aluminium one with the same dimensions, thanks to copper's rather higher thermal conductivity. * Replace "an attached fan" with "driving at speed" for our purposes.
  15. Seems Dupli.Color have a "Caliper Kit" now, brush on without removing the calipers, here 'tis: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/caliper.html I was more interested in their wheel coatings, but not sure if it's suitable for a colour change (stock R32's to white), or just dressing up existing colours. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/wheel.html
  16. Sounds pretty damned good. Sorry to go O/T but could you explain this 12.5 and "front runners" business to me, i briefly looked at the ANDRA regs and found this: Cars quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile) using independent front suspension and cross ply rear tyres are not permitted to use radial from tyres." But I'm afraid i still dont get it.
  17. When my car was dyno'd at Graham West's a few months back, it was done in 3rd gear, as were all the other cars there (to the best of my knowledge).
  18. It's best to have a resistor on each LED.
  19. I have a 16" cheapo thermo on mine, but still haven't sorted out temp control properly, I couldn't see how to the keep the standard shroud but i was in a hurry to get it back on the road. Also i measured up the EL thermos and was unconvinced they'd fit down by the A/C comp, but as mentioned i was in a hurry and didn't want to be mucking around with it to find out for sure. My temps have been fine but it hasn't seen any genuinely hot weather yet.
  20. DOUBLE POST - See Below.
  21. Not lag, spikes, in simple terms the hose is longer so the wastegate won't react as quickly. Save for an EBC, the Jaycar IEBC (massive thread over in Stagea land) is very affordable if you're handy with a soldering iron, or there's the dual bleed types with a switching solenoid (i.e. Turbosmart) but i dn't think they represent good value.
  22. Okay lets do this thing, put me down for: shocks, springs, adj. swaybars, bump stops & dust covers. Cheers, - Ash.
  23. Saw a black R33 with purple lines all over it and a "Ministry of Bass" sticker across the rear, also a number plate to that effect, on Port Rd this morning. Kinda made me chuckle.
  24. Is that, Como Park North, on Cnr Alexander Avenue & Williams Rd South Yarra, cos as far as I can tell there is non Alexander Parade in Sth Yarra?
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