benl1981

I just pulled apart a cooper. I went to autobarn to get some of the $3 specials a while ago and the guy said be very careful with them as a friend stuffed his motor when some paper came loose. I have used them in the family cars for the past 3-5 years no worries. He reckoned change them every 5k saying the rycos are better. I read an article on the net praising the coopers but wanted to see for myself. This one here has been in the gfs 91 model corolla for 10,000kms with oil change at 5,000 kms. (Engine has 220k kms on it). Oil filter shown is Z386 - for skyline it is Z145a, but I assume all coopers are of a similar standard. Things to note. There was plenty of oil still in the filter which means the anti drain back valve was still working fine. You can usually tell this by the weight (comparing to new filter) The can and spring (spring is to keep pressure on the Anti drain back valve The parts - from left, paper filter, case, spring, Anti drain back valve By pass valve at bottom, cannot see too well. You can se the little holes to allow filtered oil to flow through to the centre section. Paper filter I have new Nissan and cooper oil filters at home. On visual inspection the holes shown in the 3rd pic are larger on the coopers than the nissans, probably not a great thing as if the paper did give way then more chance of a larger piece making its way into engine. I have 2 coopers for a corolla at home and it seems the newer coopers have larger holes whereas older ones had more smaller holes. Don't know why they changed, probably not a big deal at all. After 10000kms the paper was still pretty firm and didn't appear as if it would give way. It didn't tear really easily. I'm going to stick with the coopers. Never had a dodgy seal either whereas I've heard people with Rycos having probs.

I have a set of tyres that I picked up that look a little like retreads, i.e. a seam around the sidewall near wear the Wear indicator locator is. The tread pattern looks the same though as when I look up the tyre on the internet. Are retreads usually a different tread pattern? Also the wear indicator locator is just above the seam - i.e in a part that I would have thought would be the retreaded rubber but it has the company design as the locator. Just dont really want to run Retreads on a skyline. Thanks

Power gain?

ANyone know about the power gain?

I have the standard air box with a paper standard air filter. I recently changedfrom large HKS POD under the bonnet. I thiink I may be lacking a bit of the top end I had with the POD.. How much extra power would the pipercross panel give you? Or reduction in 0-100km/h time. 5-7kw? 0.3sec?? Thanks

Hi there - I just got some whiteline polyurethane castor rods pressed into my rods. The mechanic was saying they may squeek after a while as grease wears out. I gave him some castrol grease to use. He also reckoned my stockies looked ok. One was slightly cracked but nothing major. I kept the stockies as back up. Do you think he is right? Or just trying to worry me? I was hoping these would stay good for years so I didn't have to stuff around again Thanks Ben

Cold idle between 4 and 6. What is it usually for you guys? Warm idles sometimes only a fraction above zero

Thats pretty cheap. I think I will stick to mild as I have mild steel wire in the MIG at the moment. Mild steel should be cheaper..

Try another gauge... if they're consistent between cylinders that's a good start

Thanks guys - what do you cold idle at? When you first crank it up what pressure do you see. Then after say 30 sec what do you see on the needle ? Thanks Ben

Does anyone know where to get 3" mild steel bends to make a dump/front pipe out of. The local exhaust shop wants $30 or more each. This makes it costly if you f..k up... Sydney, if possible around nthn beaches. Also, How about steam pipe/schedule 40, you can get this from the hardware about $8 a bend. People use this to build manifolds. Bit thicker than required. Wall thickness is around 4-5mm. Might be a bit harder to work with and heavier but probably last forever. Any thoughts on this? Thanks PS I am going to MIG it togather, I know someone that might be able to plasma cut the flanges for me. I have a spare dump pipe to trace the flange required. Goal - to build 3" combined Dump/front pipe for under $120

Sorry mate they are Sold

Thanks mate - good idea. It cold idles about the 4-6 mark. I'll have to check. But oil pressure is pretty high till about 5 minutes doen the road. I'm getting a wheel alignment soon so might see if the mechanic has a gauge to hook up to check. WHat could possibly be wrong, oil pump? Thanks again

Hi there. My skyline has low oil pressure at warm idle according to the factory gauge. Only a few mm above zero. As soon as you take off it rises pretty quickly to around the 2 or 4 mark. When I got it it had 10W 30 oil in it. I now have 10w 40 in it with a genuine filter. Maybe now go to 15w 50.? I searched and have heard this may be a gauge problem. I can't hear any clanking or signs of poor lubrication When I got the car UAS checked it out pretty thoroughly. Thanks

I think they may be sold. WIll post if deal falls through.

Pics of them. The tyres are Dunlop 225/50. Rims are 16" No gutter scrapes at all and all paint on wheels perfect! Centre caps could do with a spray. $3 spray can from repco Tyres worn heavily on inner edge (i.e. wont pass rego). Might be good for a couple of burnouts but not too much more. $65 and they're anyones, sydney of course . I'm on Nthn beaches.

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Very good condition will post pics soon. Tyres are bald though Good if you have some tyres to throw on or have scuffed your rims. $75 for 2 or $40 each Thanks

ACL do seals and gaskets http://www.acl.com.au check preferred stockists in the contact drop down menu for something like exhaust manifold I wouldnt bother getting genuine, maybe internal bits that are hard to get to eg. valve stem seals it may be worth going original. Radiator hose? Super cheap or similar? Or the shop that stocks the gasket...

I Sent u a few pms yesterday, and left a message on your phone. Thanks Ben

Does anyone know if polyurethane ones make the car ride a lot harder. Not really into that... thanks

There's a fair bit of BS in this thread. In a corolla the temptation is less to speed and the speeds hit will be less. After just getting a skyline (previously had a SX corolla), the temptation to speed is a lot greater now, requires a lot more restraint. If you take away the temptation then there is less of a chance that these sorts of things will happen. I know a lot of guys have skylines etc on P plates and I'm not saying that they should be banned from driving them but just take it easy, if you get an urge, go to the track. Don't live and die for the car, and risk others lives. There's a lot of other things out there besides cars to enjoy. Driving is dangerous enough without taking these kinds of risks. , the only thing that could have been worse in this is if another car came the other way or a pedestrian was hit. As good as high performance cars are I think it is better to learn on an old slowish car that you can work on yourself and play around with cheaply. Then a few years later move onto something a bit better, quicker etc. Then you appreciate import cars etc.. Everybodies stupid at some stage, in varying degrees - 3/4 people paid the price for it here. And you wonder why cops pick on skyline drivers...for these types of reasons VFR600 " i dont think you get it. he was an educated driver and had good experience, the roads he were on were most likely the biggest problem. You guys didnt know him or his abilities, and alot of you dont know the road he was on." It's a 50 zone!!! - the road doesn't have to be perfect, It's signposted 50 for a reason. Do all 50 zones have to be built so you can do 150+ in a skyline on them (i.e. virtually autobahns)? There's plenty of roads in Aus, they're never going to be perfect.

Sold to Prank - Dropping off today. THanks

Bump. $180