frigjam

Ash I have one, here in Tassie... It's a 5spd too. I know of two others here in tassie, one of which i think is an auto however... I dont like the sound of the auto 4WD gearbox *shudders* Does yours have the boot badges?? The sedans have badges, the coupes have decals. Copies of the decals from a coupe would be ok if I cant find the sedan gts-4 badges

It's not a cheap as I first thought for the GTR guards, I was given a price not inc shipping to Tas.... So really I just want a drivers side 32 GTS guard in decent condition, doesnt have to be perfect cond, it'll only be repainted. My car is dark blue, so a perfect dark blue guard would be even better

I have the same comments about kutsie too. My car went into him fumbling and stumbling around, I wasnt sure where to start. Came out with a good power figure for a near stock 2litre so i was probably about as happy as you.... Unfortunately I didnt have time to stick around and see my car on the dyno like yourself

*bump* still need one, really in need of one quite soon actually...

hehe will use the rears myself if no one buys the set

If anyone is interested, will have for sale very soon the KYB coilovers from my GTS-4, perfect condition and not that old (the car has done bugger all kays with them in anyway). Anyone who's been for a ride in the car will tell you these coilovers are perfect for the track/street. They are dampening adjustable. They're still currenty in the the car, should be out within a week or two tho. Only reason for selling is upgraded to HKS fully adjustables. Probably looking at $500 for the set... PM me if interested. Cheers Paul

Ok sounds interesting but if anyone knows of a drivers guard let me know, cheers.

As the topic says, for a GTS-T not GTR.... Pref in decent nick and local (within Tas). Cheers. Also, does anyone know if GTR guards will fit straight onto a GTS without changing the front bar? Looks a pretty simple swap to me. Because the other option for me is a set of GTR fibreglass guards that I can get for fairly cheap... Paul 0428310449

i've used both genuine and non genuine water pumps (rb30 items) and cant tell the difference, both work fine and never a problem. aftermarket item was from Burson and was about $60. i'd suggest doing the timing belt also, just for some cheap insurance...

Check that you may have a clutch master cylinder booster fitted, i know GTR's have these, your might have one installed for some reason (heavy clutch maybe) if so that'd be your RPM drop. Otherwise, I cant see why the RPM would drop...

Good luck with it... I agree with you there Todd, i generally spend a good day on my own cars doing full alarm system, im pretty picky and want it right the first time Re wiring diagrams, I don't ever use them, waste of time when the wires are there in front of you, and mulitmeter/test light in your hands. Handy for factory central locking systems if you cant be bothered working it out what sort it is however.

its not a 5 min job, would be 3-4 hours to do properly, inc windows, central locking, door/boot/bonnet sensors, PROPERLY immobilised..... i do all that sort of thing for a living, its the last thing i'd think about doing after work. maybe on a weekend in a few weeks when i have some free time if you still need it done.

Cool, looks just like mine, although a bit longer and has a back seat Although I'd have to say my car was last owned by someone in japan who had no f**king idea, and im left with a big wiring mess... Basically my car has no ECU and the plugs cut off with bare wires showing. Im guessing their idea was to wire in an R32 ECU because a found that in the boot. Obviously a bad idea as the redtop still had the original low impedance injectors (silvertops use high impedance ones) not to mention all the other engine sensors. I borrowed an ECU from my HR31 and have found an old cut up HR31 loom and slowly wired some of it back up - the colour codes are completely different from Z31 to HR31 however So slowly but surely traced most wires back but the car still runs like shit, something isn't right somewhere! If someone could take a couple of high res photos of their loom running into the ECU that would help! Or an uncut 200ZR engine loom I could buy/borrow Otherwise I might just go for an aftermarket ECU setup, but not overly keen to do that just yet, need to get it roadworthy and rego'd first!!!!

so no one has got one?

Sweet that'd be good to see some pics! I really love this car, cant wait to see how it handles out on the track, its got some serious HKS suspension gear and combined with the watanabe style rims its obvious this car has been set up for drift, dont think its seen much action as it all looks pretty much brand new and the tyres are still like new. I had a chance to score a HKS F-Con for the NICS rb20det (as seen in the z31 and hr31 ) but didnt buy it because I wasnt knowledgable with it, also doubted any tuners here in Tas would have been interested. My impression that the F-Con is similar to that of the Apexi P-FC and plugs into the existing loom?

agreed with there, i have used normal unleaded at times and not noticed a fricken difference. but the car would have been fairly stockish and far from its limits. having said that, the engine can be pinging without you knowing it, obviously when you ARE aware its pinging then its pretty serious at that point.

Japan's regular unleaded is 98RON and most of my imports i've owned (or still own) have 98RON fuel stickers on the fuel flap, so I'd say there is more to it. As mentioned above, the ECU may need a reset as it does "learn" to a certain degree, although shouldnt have a huge impact. Also, is the fuel from the bowser really 98RON???

Nice one, that is very tidy!! Hopefully mine will tidy up that well once its finished and leaves the garage! Mine is actually a 200ZR-II so one of the very last, its late 88 model i've translated it to. a pic of the arse end taken the other day, mind all the shit everywhere. What have you done with the shell and rest of the car? I can only imagine how hard it'd be to find 2 seater parts, thats all I am going to be worried about when I take it out! I agree with you, being the last of the true zeds having the straight 6, i've never liked any veeeee engines....

So no ones got one or know of someone else here with one?

Need an R32 TPS.... preferably with wiring plug and ample wiring to solder onto existing loom. Cheers Paul.

South... All up I spent just over $500 in total for 2 occasions on the dyno, the car went in with a few problems, first the fuel pump was too weak, and then the TPS was playing up giving the ECU a wrong signal, rewired an R33 TPS in and that worked, also allowed the SAFC-2 to also work properly.... However any other car just with a SAFC-2 already wired in, ready to go, looking at 2 hours max on the dyno so $200 at the very most. To get any real benefit of the SAFC-2 you'll need some decent boost control (i use the AVC-R), and an adj fuel reg would also be handy. Cheers Paul.

JDM engines are tuned from the factory for 98RON. Anyhow, just had mine dyno tuned this week with a tank of 98 - 146rwkw at 8psi rb20det with an r33 turbo and SAFC-2. So for an RB25DET thats a poor figure, but you know, its not all about max power.... I could easily get more out of mine but we felt even the slightest bit of detonation (as in, not audible by ear unless using the expensive tuning gear) was not worth it.

got v-tec yo?

ROFL thats just made my day. I can say I dont actually know Erica, but going by the grammar and spelling in that post gives me the idea she's just a silly little girl... She probably didn't even realise at the time thats way over the limit :

Not good news at all, i hope everyone is ok too. Although if drinking was involved by the driver, i have little pity but feel sorry for the passengers. And for the rest of us, it's already hard enough to drive through town without getting pulled over 2 or 3 times in the one night...