nemini90

Anyone able to help......

HI All im hoping someone can confirm for me the correct distance from release bearing to clutch and if i have measured the correct way. I have just installed a Nismo twin plate clutch to my r33 gtst skyline. I took the measurement from the block to the clutch fingers and got 77mm. I then went to the gear box and pushed the release bearing back as far as i could and got the measurement of 85mm. this is a distance of 8mm clearance from bearing to clutch fingers when all bolted back together. Could someone please confirm what is the correct measurement. I think i remember reading it was 10mm but i have serched and could not find that information. I do have a carrier that will get it to 11mm just want to confirm before i put all back topgether. Thanks Neal

Hey mate i have a haltech e11 v2 if your interested

Oil filter is not a problem. i am able to reach it from where the throtle body is. there is only 2x 20mm lines running from the bottom of the plenum to my remote idle valve

HI Guys Just to let you know that is my car in the pic. I am very pleased with the work that these guys do and although i dont have dyno figures to prove the product i can tell you it did add a big differance in performance. There is a little work to fitting them as in moving your Idel control valve to a remote position and using a 300zx throtle cable but other then that they do bolt stright up and you will also be able to run top feed injectors. The boys at hypertune are very good at what they do and alot of the very big cars around the world run there stuff. Neal

new update i checked everything external of the motor it all came up good i have removed the head and sent it to my workshop ill wait to see what they have to say befor i pull the block down and have it tested also i found a lot of oil in the water jackets

no shaft play on turbo both wheels are in mint condition. i will be taking my turbo and wastegate to gcg tomorrow to have it looked at but i only had the turbo serviced 3000km ago

yeah gasket is fine no water leaks or strange idle. and cant see any marks on the gasket where it has blown out

new update. i comp tested the car so it was done cold with both manifolds off. 1=145psi 2=145psi 3=145psi 4=145psi 5=150psi 6=145psi

ok an update on my problems. i have removed the cat and muffler both are 4 inch there are no blockages with these i have checked the wastegate which it a 50mm turbosmart that is ok all vacume and boost lines are ok and i have remove inlet which is ok aswell.so now all i have left is the motor. i know your ment to do a compression test with the motor warm but since i have removed the inlet do you think it will be ok to do the test cold. i will have to wait a few days to do this i dont have a guage have to borrow a mates.

this is what has got me stumped the turbo is fine form what i can see wheels are intact no damage an with motor running at idle blows air out the turbo outlet. i tried to get it to boost and reved it to 5500 under load with only 2 psi of boost to be made it sounded like it was spooling so could it be somthing more serious with the turbo.i dont run a show of valve

Hi guys i hope you can help me with my problem. I have a 25/30 setup running a 35/40 turbo 20psi. i had a cometic head gasket go on me about 5000km ago so i removed the haed and had it checked with no faults found. I replaced this gasket with a nitto one and have had no problems till last weekend. I was up it for the rent and things were all going good till i got of the power and then about 1 min later i went to get back on it and the car made no boost. first thing i thought was that i had blown a cooler pipe but this was not the case so drove the car home which was about a 90 min drive in last sundays heat (car did not get hot). when i got home checked turbo intercooler but no problems. i then removed radiator cap to find it had very slight milky warter. i then tested the head gasket with a die tester and it was inconclusive. so im about to remove the head and check gasket by my biggest problem is where did all my boost go i have had a gasket blow befor and the car still made boost but now i cant even make 2 psi.could there be something more serious i a missing. i have no blow by and car still runs fine of boost. any help on what to look for would be great. i will be testing the head again for warping cracks and all so crack testing the top of the block. just so you know it is all forged,drysump,head drains,vct,all bolts are arp,car is/was making 450kw on pump Any help would be great Thanks Neal

Ben Ellis use to write drift battle mag i think and he also runs otomoto

i just did a dye test and found head gasket gone i wont be using a cometic again

no water in oil and no oil in water no smoke the car drives fine just overflow and not taking the water back

i have the sae problem as you the car i not loseing coolent what it is doing is when the car gets hot the water expands into the overflow bottle and then when it cools it is only taking about half of it back so when you drive the car a few times it fills the over flow and gets hot cause it not taking the water back so far i have changed radiator thermostat tryed no themostat changed water pump checked flow through block the only thing i have left to check is the head gasket i think under load it has a sall leak and is blowing presure into the water side which is overflowing the overflow

hey guys i have a full race manifold forsale its never been fitted to a car will fit rb26 25 20 t4 twin scroll flange with tial 44mm wastegate flange cost about $3000 new im after $1500 ono item is located in sydney

how can you call a person a dick head for hitting limiter when most drifters will tell you its a must you cant just up shift when you want to extend a slide sometimes if you want an easy fix go external pump

not to sure about your turbo you will need to find out what presure it can take as for the drains try to weld fitting onto the sump as its not a good idear to connect them all together as there will be a flow problem

I to had a n1 let go on e and decided to go external pump i have had no probles since and thrash it of limeter all day at the track and the cost was not to bad $1000 for peterson single stage pump $200 for mandrel for the crank $200 for speedflow fittings and 1 day in the gargae making a bracket for the pump This is the way to go imo

Not much is on today so might come out cya there

the hpi mag that is out at the moment has a r33 with m sports kit on the front cover its my car if you get a good qul one they fit good

i got him to do the whole car in and out and he is a good mate of mine so the price was good there are plenty of people out there that say they can do it but andy was the only one i could find to do it right

Also gtr front guards wont help you will have to change lights bumper bonnet to fit them and its not cheep

Hey mate it is my car that is on the cover. I cut all the guards myself and rewelded them and got andy at complete smash in kirrawee to finish them of. He is probley the best at it and if your looking at getting the job done right take it to him