linxus40

well just got my car back from the guys at ice after getting timing, waterpump, sparkies changed over as well as a dyno run to see what power i have. ive had the car for almost 2 months but its the first chance ive had to get it all done and im prety happy with the results and the guys at ice are great. looking at the chart it dosent give inlet temps, not sure why that is but thats ok cos the dyno run was thrown in for free. not bad for stock cooler, injectors, ecu, pod, 3" exhaust and a big assed turbo. after the service car seems to be running better to

just measured them, looks like there 40mm. still easy to read so maybe go the smaller size for the better look. unless you need glasses or something......

thought so, damnit!

AP engineering version? hope this dosent apply to me i got a R32 GTS-T and if i can get one definately put me down for one at that price.

havent really seen ones like that much but looking at it, it dosent look to bad, might have to investigate it. tho i do wonder how doing a 180degree turn just after the cooler and doing it in the cooler is much different. i would just chuck a U shaped pipe at the back to catch and redirect the air back through with a bottom and a top tank. tho pyhsics was never my strong point maybe there is something i dont see.

a friend of mine repairs them for a supplier who sells the bikes at about 500 each. all i can say is they are cheap and nasty machines that break down way too often to even bother with. if you do get one make sure it has a long waranty and the place wont go under in 2 weeks so you can acually claim on it.

my car came with 3 hks guages (water temp, exhaust temp and boost) pre fitted into the top din just below the aircon controlls. they arnt slanted but there still piss easy to read at just a glance(looks like there supposed to be there its that good). when i get home ill post a pic of it if i remeber

nah i dont think you understand what im asking, ill draw an ascii picture see if it helps. ........................__ /........................__ Inlet /....Intercooler...../ /......................./__ /........................___ Outlet both pipes both same side so only need 2 small pipes to lock into the stock piping. dont want pipes going under the cooler or over the top, dosent look very nice imho. so anyone done, seen, got a price for what im after?

pm sent for central vent

ok im looking at geting an intercooler made up for my R32 GTS-T which has the inlet and outlet on the same side next to the stock position as well as the pipes needed to hook it all up. im hoping some of you guys have done this or at least had custom coolers made up. if so who did you use and would recomend and how much did it all cost? ill be putting it in myself so i just need the parts fabricated. oh yeah want the cooler to be able to hande 280-300 rwkw just in case i go crazy and get this car stupid fast. any help would be great Jason

rwc should only cost about $66 to get the car checked, the only problem and i had this with mine is it is probably not roawdorthy atm and depending on whant needs to be fixed you could be paying anything (i had to pay 1100 to get some body work done and my front brakes fixed). that being said its impossible to give a number it all depends on how good/bad condition your car is. just looking over the pics id say rust, tyres and the guague that is mounted on the dash but the only realy way to know is get someone to inspect ya car first. you usually have 7 days to fix the car and if you get in before then you dont have to pay the inspection fee again. so its probably a good idea to get it checked just bedore you have a spare week to organise everything you need.

rcw is seperate to this,

once a car has passed a rwc and has been registered you just pay the rego each year and there are no other inspections so those rust buckets you see were once in good condition. the only way a rust bucket will be removed is if the cops pull them over and give them a canary. cops have better things to do than this (pulling over skyline owners cos there cars are much more dangerous.....phtttt! ) is normally the order of the day.

i will have to further investigate see what kinds of coolers there out there with both inlet and exit on same time. woulkd think it would save a ton of cash also as there is less pipe fabrications witch is usually almost half the cost.

ive seen fmic coolers out there where the inlet and outlet port is on the same side. yet whenever i see a fmic on a skyline r32 entry is on one side exit is on the other. wouldn’t it be a better idea if you just got a cooler with inlet and exit on same side as the stock coolers pipes then just fabricate up some short assed pipes up to join the two. i hear having the long pipes makes the turbo more lagy as the air has further to travel, wouldn’t my idea reduce the lag a bit cos the air only has a few extra feet? allright maybe i have no idea what im on about when it comes to coolers so if im wrong just explain why and try not to flame me too much.

yup thats what i was saying, rust is a rwc item. you might clip some poor pedestrian give em a nasty dose of tetnis/lock jaw.

looks like a nice car, how much it set you back? btw first thing you will need to look at is that rust on the back. i doubt youll get a rwc with it the way it is. oh yeah and clean up that cluster with the guages somehow, it looks terrible with a big hole there

let me clarify my statement. if you buy a fast car, turbo/non turbo and not drive it fast (and in doing so use more fule than usual) the way the car was designed to be driven. then you are a poser. and back onto the subject of this thread. 70K's to 10lts is bad for a non turbo. i get 200-210K's to 27litres. and thats fast acelerating/fast driving action.

got my place done at the same place as this guy. Lena Engineering the name of the place. still got his card in my wallet 0412716671 name is Gary. did a good job and replaced my pipe that had the blow off valve with a new pipe free of charge (let me keep old pipe). edit: only took 4 days too

1100 sounds about right for all the work that needs to be done. i paid 1K but one of my doors allready had side intrusions (replaced with new door i suspect) and so didnt need doing.

most of us buy turbo skylines to go fast and not to be a poser in a 'line, so in repose that whushing noise question. it is worth 1.15 a litre

when i imported i went throug j-spec.com.au. better to get an angent that has people to check the cars out in japan and better to avoid the only 1 day to buy bs as there is no need to rush. get them to get a mechanic to fully check the car out (will cost you about $250) but you will get a full report as well as about 80odd photos. put ya deposit down so they start looking for ya but take ya time and dont take the first car ya see, wati till ya get a feel for the types of cars that are avaliable. i did it this way and my machine is a rocket with no problems whatsoever.

gts4 are the closest youll get to a gtr handeling wise without getting a gtr, the extra weight will make them a little slower than the rwd's but a few mods and thats fixed nicely. sounds like a good price for a 93 model but be sure to get it fully checked out cos it does sound a bit cheap and there could be something majorly wrong with it.

I think if she is in the wrong it wont really matter how much your policy states your car is worth. Her insurance will be paying out so get them to inspect it and agree on a price.

before you spary get some fine grade sand papaer and give the whole lot a going over. otherwise the paint wont stick and will bubble. not a good look.