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Everything posted by Guilt-Toy
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Ahahhahah Give Him Some Sympathy
Guilt-Toy replied to Bo0oSt's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I asked a question. if you cant answer it then dont. -
Ahahhahah Give Him Some Sympathy
Guilt-Toy replied to Bo0oSt's topic in General Automotive Discussion
ok so how much to get them to do a 10 sec quarter?? -
Ahahhahah Give Him Some Sympathy
Guilt-Toy replied to Bo0oSt's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I love my skylines and turbo's but when it comes to v8's nothing sounds better then a GTHO phase 3. Those cars have status. Some are going for close to half a mill these days. crazy. I like all cars.. the only ones i dont like are Excel's and daewoo's , KIA's.... those russian things. Reading through that thread i never been able to see it from their side of things and it interests me.. i would really like to know how many of those guys that are bragging about beating skylines all the time have come up against a 300+ rwkw riceline jap taxi. Would it be fair to say that buying a r33 $12k and spending 12k on it in the right places could send it down the quarter in 10 seconds and bag at least 320rwkw. What would 24k get you in a holden ls1 could you even buy one for that ? (i dont know anything about holdens as i am not into them) ?? i dont want to start a shit fight here i am just interested in understanding them a bit more. -
What Temp Does Your Car Run At?
Guilt-Toy replied to ricknismo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
mine runs around 90 around town and on the freeway it goes up to around 96 - 104 depending how hot it is. it hardy ever goes up to 104 usually sits at 100ish on a cool day on freeway. i am going to change my fan to el twin thermo's this weekend. Sydney kid said that they can run at that temp without any issues before so yeah i dunno -
Ahahhahah Give Him Some Sympathy
Guilt-Toy replied to Bo0oSt's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Hahahhaaa that is such a good read! cheers This has to be one of my favorite comments that ive head in a LONG while. __________________- Re: sick of losing against turbos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- He has more power and less weight. Get more power (easy) and you will win more races. R33's are a factory built sports car, your SS is a sporty family car. Big differance. You can beat then easily but remember what the car is. If you want to beat sports cars you need to build a sports car. __________________ JOIN #ls1 on irc.oz.org DETAILING STAFF WANTED IN BRISBANE PM ME ------------------------------ Okay so R33's are a factory built sports car.. Funny how they think that and call Skylines "jap taxi's" and what not. Ohhh well. there attitude is just gold. to be honest i enjoy it and hope they never change. -
Sounds like your clutch is buggard. can you feel the tailshaft move or the dif clunk when you do get it into gear ? if you can it means the clutch is not working properly. Did you upgrade the clutch or is it a standard NA one?
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did they make you get a emissions test?
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where does it say a 96 model cannot have a pod ? mine is a 95 however i still want to know. What if the pod is completly covered in the front bar and the police cannot see it or touch it without getting a screw driver and a few tools to pull appart the car ?
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femmo - i want that surge and pump. bad.
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You can get some FCD's that work with r33's but it is pretty risky. try for a proper ecu if you can if not then I do know that Unique Auto Sports have got a few models in stock that they sell and tune with good results. check them out www.gtr.com.au
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Anything using the standard oxy sensor is not going to cut it as far as i am concerned. Sure its good for a guide and cruise it could be okay but for tuning you must use a wide band.. i prefer the Autronic one but alot of the cheaper ones are just as good these days I have re-mapped my ecu twice in the last 3 months (once when it just hit 800ks at 296rwkw for fuel economy which failed missions and the second time to pass the emissions test and 317rwkw) The first time i had stock fuel pressure and had it set to 0% either way and the second time i raised the fuel pressure from 28psi (yeah it was low) to 45psi and i had to drop it down to 77% because the numbers would not go low enough to give me 14.7 a/f on idle and i ended up running out of fuel (walbro 550hp pump at its limit) I am going to re-do it again in a few months after i save up some money for a 044 pump and possibly surge tank and a better fuel reg which i will do as a road tune up to 20psi and then more boost will be saved for the dyno soon after.
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I am not sure that would be a very good way of doing it because if you do that then how do you really know what the a/f is on cruise ? Every power fc i have tuned I have reset the ecu and used no injector correction and use the numbers in the map to controll the fuel - i usually leave the ignition timing stock unless trying to bring on boost quicker (big turbos only) Anyway the reason i think that is not right is because if your relying on closed loop mode to keep your a/f ratios in order on cruise is that it will not be very reliable or very fast in gauging what the ratio's are to correct it and also keeping in mind that the oxy sensors are very slow and it will be running really rich or lean untill its corrected. The best way to do it IMHO is to completly re program the whole map and leave all corrections standard so the car runs good a/f ratios on cruise and leave the oxy sensor OFF. i have found that it ALLWAYS richens the mixture up to the point where it uses more fuel and changes the a/f ratio from 14.7 back down to 13.3 - 13.8 which is using more fuel then is needed. I guess thats one of the the differences from getting a quick $200 tune to a $800 tune from various workshops around the place. Keep an eye out that some people around are only reporting 300km's to a tank with 200rwkw and some (like myself) get over 500 if i dont hammer it everywhere with over 300rwkw. If your in nsw near sydney send me a PM if your keen to fix it up on a road tune..
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if you completly re-map the ecu then you dont need to worry about this do you ???. its only when using the stock map to bring the a/f ratios right. correct me if i am wrong.
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i hear that the oil pump can crack because of the small drive - thats why i installed the crank collar. ready for bang bang action
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Here is a R33 GTST power fc for sale on ebay - its up to $770 atm http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXI-POWER-FC-TO-S...1QQcmdZViewItem
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i will tune your car for $300
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Autosports "ultimate Control" Skidpan No#1, March 24th Oran Park
Guilt-Toy replied to D_I_F's topic in Events Archive
i am going to have to give up my spot because my car is not ready and i had to spend a few hundred $$ on it last weekend so it will put me out if i go.. -
GAP YOUR PLUGS TO .6 or .7. You have been told.
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hahahahahaa thats just as bad as the excel in newcastle that had holden SS badges on it. The most funny part about it is that It kinda suited it!! Check this out guys - this is a Civic but its got a R34 body lift. http://exclusiveautomotive.blogspot.com/se...20Skyline%20GTR
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When i saw it on TV i knew who it was straight away - i am suprised you did not mention it to me before anyway.. the question i have is that are you going to be able to sue to get the money back you invested into this case? I really hope you do.
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keep looking on the for sale thread. one pops up once a week usually. get one - its worth it. Power FC are great
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what a pain in the ass