Guilt-Toy

i think rather then moving the AFM (unless i move it to the boost pipe on other side of engine bay) i will just enclose the filter and and afm away from the direct air flow.

Thanks SK... I just organised a second hand RB25 head that had good lifters in it and I am picking it up tonight - (second head ive purchased to change the lifters) so this will be the second set of lifters to go in. Will replace the timing belt as well and check the idlers. Thanks for advice. Could the lifters be the reason why number 3 is a little down on compression?

Well if i did that then the AFM would be reading air that would be escaping from the valve which would make the engine run rich. Yes ? I use copper plugs and change them every 2 months. i run .7 .8 gap.

I never considered that the air could be rejected by the gt35r compressor... Interesting.. i think in this case because the AFM is connected straight onto the air filter sitting right in the front bar the air is just being rammed through the AFM and telling the computer that it using more air then it needs... On my AFM it is connected to a 4" pipe which feeds up into the engine bay and then onto the compressor housing - probly around 70 - 80 cm of piping or more by the time it hits the compressor - i assumed it would just compress not surge back down the pipe. Can you get a 4" pcv valve ? where would you get it from?? If i enclosed the Air filter / AFM in a aluminium enclosure and had a smaller entry to the box so air does not directly hit the air filter would that fix the issue as well as the pcv valve?

hahaha SK. what the ? the air is only going one way.. its just being rammed in

yeah its a big hill.. goes for about a km and its three lanes wide... was just a test!!

I had my air filter mounted in the front gaurd right infront of the front bar for cold air flow and i have noticed issues when driving over 70ks an hour in top gear the engine would cough and pop and miss all the time especially at over 110ks an hour. I just upgraded my air filter to a Apexi power intake model which must flow much more then the other ones i was using (long story) and noticed the issue got worse - then i realised it could be air being forced into the filter and going straight past the AFM.. so air was being forced through the afm and the engine does not need to use it.... (kinda like a boost effect through the air filter intake pipe) So this morning i put a piece of cardboard and covered the gap on the front bar and the drive to work was nice and smooth - perfect as a matter of fact. no missing or coughing or spluttering and the PFC was showing around 3 - 4 less % injector duty. Going down a big hill i turned the engine off and turned the computer on and the AFM was measuring about 1800 - 2200mv at 110ks an hour with the engine OFF (before i blocked the air flow) - at idle it sits at 1050 - 1100mv - have not done a test after the air flow was blocked yet... So causing a ram effect on the air filter for cold air feed can cause issues.... I am going to build a box in the front gaurd / front bar and enclose the air filter .. if that dont work i will have to move the AFM to the boost pipe. Just wanted to share this

its all about how much money you have to spend.. my car is a daily driver as i do 140km in it each day to go to work and back. My mate (mechanic) keeps telling me to put solid lifters in it which will solve the problem... Anyone else have anymore ideas? if i take the car out on the weekend and drive it hard etc there are no issues.. its only when i drive on the freeway at 2800rpm - 3300rpm for long periods of time or when the engine is cold when i get the noises...

Super cold air induction.. AFM and filter was sitting in the air scoop of front bar. it bottomed out and got run over... Dont laugh.. someone on here had it happen to them and I laughed at them bad karma

im using one too.. GT3582R - you can get the apexi power flow pods which have the bolt pattern for the A45. see KUDOS motorsports - he is sponsor on here. great guy awesome service. I just got a setup from him because.. ummmm.. lets just say i ran over my Q45 AFM and POD. Long story =)

ever since i blocked off my oil line and restricter the other I have had major lifter noise when the car is driven slowly and cruising to work. As soon as i start hitting boost or idle in traffic for a while (engine gets warmer) the lifters stop making noise. but oil does not escape from catch can anywhere near as much now then it used to before the restrictors were installed. Its annoying. tried all kinds of oil... Castrol Edge 5w30 Penrite HPR40 Castrol GTX3 Castrol 15w40 (best result) The thicker the oil the noisier the engine gets. compression tests showed 145 155 120 155 140 150 (cold engine) I think my lifters are screwed... the noise does sound like its comming from the top of the engine.. I have been thrashing the crap outta the engine and no change.. Maybe i have oil gallerys blocked in my head or something ? I get lots of oil splashing in the cam covers... Engine makes noise but goes great. I have a bottom end as a backup for forgies and rods because i was told the bottom end is what is buggered by a few people yet others tell me its oil starvation to the lifters or the lifters are screwed. sound is definatly comming from the top of the engine and allways goes away when the engine has been given a hard time or sitting in traffic for a while. Everyone i go to gives me a different opinion. confusing

This is how it goes.. When you say tacho you mean engine revs yes? then you mention speed. Engine Revs is correct on the power FC compared to the stock tacho meter SPEEDO can be correct on the indash display and not on the PFC or vice versa OR they could be both wrong. Get someone in a late model car do some tests with you on speed one check at 40 then 60 then 80 then 100 etc etc Then you will know which one is correct. My PFC speedo used to be correct then i got a different ratio diff and now the indash speedo is correct.

Welcome to oil fountains blow by

60,000km later and my rb30det in stock condition is down to 120psi on third cyl

Location please

Got a whole set - in excelent working condition. Selling due to upgrading. they have 60,000km use $180 + Post EDIT - Can someone move this to for sale please?

I got this turbo for a mate and he pulled out on the sale so I am selling to cover my costs. This is a T70 turbo - on a RB25 with 19psi it has made 420rwhp (a guy i know has tried it on his R33 with stock exaust manifold) I also have a top mount manifold for sale for rb20/25 which is extra Looking for $800 for the turbo + gate - its never been used and its a big turbo .82 rear and .70 front Pics comming soon

Sydney or newcastle or central coast only - interested in a swap i want to try something different. only plug ins please R33 GTST

Wanted to buy one in sydney or newcastle or central coast. Please ring me 0412 417 579

Hey Sydneykid.. Do you think he should upgrade the exaust first???

VL ones fit perfectly

Location please?

Looking at buying a rb30 bottom end built up with forgies minimum maybe aftermarket rods. please PM me with what you have got with prices. this is for a rb30det - so it cant have turbo rb30et pistons Sydney area

Group buy on these alarms. I want one. who else wants one ? http://edition.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/1...me.thrower.car/ http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/africa/232777.stm

is it a adjustable BOV ? you can also tighten them up.