Burns

Whopte dooo

Someone come and buy it this weekend I can't fit the new car in the garage now.

So how do those mesurments compare to a R33 GTS-t

It gives you a 50/50 tourq split up to a certan speed

This might intrest some of you. Good pics showing speaker instal http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...fstagea-r28.htm

Jay dont do many short trips. Mostly to to and from work drives 60km each way. emanuelt it you have a look at my thread on the cold air partition i have a pic that shown where the air comes from. I removed the rubber backing around the headlight and there is a gap under it into the stock intercooler area big enough for me to fit both my arms through.

New plugs are in Gaped to 0.8mm I took it for a test drive and it has 90% fixed the problem. It still misses slightly at peek boost and high revs but my passenger could not pick it. The old plugs look like they are a heat range too cold as they are a bit carboned up. The old plugs were not gapped correctly ether they ranged from 0.8mm to 1.1mm.

Thanks I picked up some plugs for a total of $20 and have just finished gaping them. I will stick them in this arvo and see how it goes. Pics of my cold air partition are in my other post Clicky

Pics bellow of the finished product. I’m yet to make a lid or a seal between the top of the partition and bonnet but that’s the easy bit. I think I will just trim a bit of foam to size, paint it black and glue it on.

So what spark plugs should I use? The NGK web site has the following listed for the non NEO RB25DET Spark Plug Part No. Recommended Plug PFR5G-11 Iridium Option BKR5EIX-11 But BKR6E-11 and BCPR7ES have both been named as the best plugs to use on here.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I will go over it and double check all the connections and plumbing to make sure nothing is loose or leaking. It is a bit strange that it runs fine under all load conditions except for when boosting above .5 - .6 bar but if I roll on the throttle gently and let boost slowly build it can run ok at higher boost levels. It sounds like I might be up for a new set of Plugs. Any idea what I should be paying for them?

Yes I pulled the intercooler pipes and AFM out but I made sure I put it all back together properly. But I will double check it all. I also cleaned the mesh on the AFM as it had little bit of a build up on it but I made sure nothing went into the wire and I gently blew it out with compressed air. I thought if it was a leak or AFM problem I would experience the problem on vacuum and at other loads. It still runs fine if I set the boost to .6 bar and only plays up over that.

But I have an APEXI AFC II installed and tuned and I have run the same boost levels before the cold air box with no real problems. I also removed the stock boost control solenoid when fitting the partition but it was not fully plumbed in anyway unless having it unplugged in confusing the ECU.

Well looks like I know what I will be doing next weekend then. I have a set of feeler gauges so can check and adjust the plug gaps easily enough. I also have a R33 Skyline sitting around that I can’t seem to find a buyer for so might do a coil pack swap to see if it fixes the problem. At least I know my cold air box is effective

I have no idea what plugs or the gap. It's strange that it has a problem all of a sudden. The car sat undriven for a week then I installed the cold air partition over the weekend and when driving it to and from work today it was running crap.

I installed a cold air partition over the weekend and took the car for its first good drive since tonight and it's not running right. It seems to be missing intermittently at boost levels above .5 bar and is more noticeable around gear changes. With normal gentle driving and gradually rolling on the power it seems fine but when I give it good stomp (70%+ throttle) from a steady cruse or standstill it builds boost, starts to accelerate then seems to cut ignition pop and fart a bit, shift a gear keep missing popping and farting and not making much power then pic up for a bit drop off again and so on. I have double checked all the plugs, hoses etc but can't find anything amiss. The only thing I can think of is that the colder air is giving a denser air fuel mix and therefore higher cylinder temps and the ignition system dose not have enough spark to ignite it. It has always missed and popped a bit on gear changes and I have put it down to the ECU cutting ignition to protect the gear box. When I turn my Blitz DSBC off or on its lowest setting keeping boost under .5 bar it seems to run fine. It my reasoning on track and I just need a spark plug change and a tune or is something horrible going on?

I installed a cold air partition over the weekend and took the car for its first good drive since tonight and it's not running right. It seems to be missing intermittently at boost levels above .5 bar and is more noticeable around gear changes. With normal gentle driving and gradually rolling on the power it seems fine but when I give it good stomp (70%+ throttle) from a steady cruse or standstill it builds boost, starts to accelerate then seems to cut ignition pop and fart a bit, shift a gear keep missing popping and farting and not making much power then pic up for a bit drop off again and so on. I have double checked all the plugs, hoses etc but can't find anything amiss. The only thing I can think of is that the colder air is giving a denser air fuel mix and therefore higher cylinder temps and the ignition system dose not have enough spark to ignite it. It has always missed and popped a bit on gear changes and I have put it down to the ECU cutting ignition to protect the gear box. When I turn my Blitz DSBC off or on its lowest setting keeping boost under .5 bar it seems to run fine. Is my reasoning on track and I just need a spark plug change and a tune or is something horrible going on?

All done now I ended up making 4 iterations of the foam shield before getting it spot on, it didn't help that the dog ate one. I will take some pics of the finished product and post them up tomorrow. There is absolutely no gaps around the foam it gives a really good seal the only place hot air can get in is the inch gap over the top of the bit of angle. I’m not sure if I will make up a lid for it or just trim a bit of soft foam to stick along the top of the angle to seal against the bonnet.

I have almost got it all sorted out now. I moved the catch can to the other side just in front of the battery and the boost controller behind the strut tower and ABS module. I also removed the rubber crap that blocks the air flow around and under the headlight Then I made up a shield out of heat shield foam from Clark Rubber after making a very crude cardboard template. It is still not quite right I cut a bit too much out in some spots so I am going to use it to make a more accurately fitting one. I am planning to use the foam by it's self but with a bit of aluminum angle to reinforce it. Once I make version two it will give a very good air tight seal. The only thing I'm a bit unsure about is if I should cut a bit of foam to seal against the bonnet or make a lid for it.