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Burns

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  1. Burns

    RIMG0992

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  2. Burns

    RIMG0985

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  3. Burns

    RIMG1020

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  4. Burns

    RIMG1019

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    RIMG1015

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    RIMG1014

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  7. Burns

    RIMG1013

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  8. Burns

    RIMG1012

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  9. Is you car lowered? Normally if it is not lowed you should be able to get the rear camber adjusted right with the stock adjusters but if it is lowered you may need to get some Whiteline offset bushes they allow +/- 0.75 deg more adjustment than stock and you can use two kits to give you +/- 1.5 deg extra adjustment. You should be aiming for 0.5 degree negative camber on the back
  10. I have not noticed any change in mine. Theoretically if anything I think it would make the turque converter lock up earlier because cooler oil is thicker.
  11. Yeah it was meant to be Illuminating. I have already tried the plugs in a computer and they are too big.
  12. Still for Sale Price Droped to $16,500
  13. Same diff but different ratios. So if you have a 4WD Stagea you would need to change both diffs.
  14. So what rear LSD's are available with a 4.3 ratio?
  15. I can’t seem to find an official Aus based distributor for Apexi who can supply spar parts. The plug is smaller than it looks in the pic, it's only about 4mm long 2.5 high so would be a bit tricky to solder.
  16. I have an Apexi boost gauge in my car but the backlight is not wired up and I can’t find a plug the right size to fit in the back of the gauge. I have looked through a few electronics suppliers catalogue and even puled apart an old computer apart but can’t find any thing. Any ideas?
  17. Burns

    RIMG1007

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  18. Burns

    RIMG0997

    From the album: Burns's Gallery

  19. Don’t get one with sun roofs or leather interior for a start
  20. 2. Dump pipes RS260 twin turbo only 3. Front pipe RS260 twin turbo 4. Dump and front pipes again 5. Adjustable Castor bars should be ok on RS4 but a castor kit from whiteline is probably just as good. 6. Rear sub frame lock bushes or ‘pineapples’ Probably ok on RS4 but a bit over the top for a road car IMHO
  21. They look the same as the pogo sticks that came in my car. Your prestige touring wagon will no longer be comfortable. Unless you only drive on smooth roads.
  22. I hope you have a well padded hood liner and don't mind getting air borne over joins in the road. Be careful taking chicks for a drive they will be unconscious after a few bumps from their tits hitting them in the face.
  23. I think I might try making something up with the heat shield foam first using then make one up out of aluminium once I am satisfied with the design in the foam and use the foam to line it for better insulation. Once it get all the crap out of the way it will probably be a bit easier. 1. There is not space behind the battery, it is full of fuse box but I think I might be able squeeze it in front of the battery right up next to the radiator. 2. The Blitz boost control solenoid should not be to hard to move but I will probably have to muck around a bit extending and rerouting the hoses and wiring. 3. Is it safe to remove the stock boost control solenoid? Will it muck up the tuning of the Blitz system? Will it give error codes and confuse the ECU? 4. Getting ambient air from the LHS bumper vent could be a bit tricky as most of it is full of intercooler pipe. I have thought about using a stock snorkel with air guide to feed air in thought a cut out in the shield but it looks like the intercooler pipes will get in the way, I tried with the snorkel of my R33 GTS-t and the pipes came up to high. Unlike the Skyline there seems to be a bit of a gap above and below the headlight that is blocked off by a cheap looking rubber flap it am thinking that if I remove this flap I might be able to get enough air flowing in around the head light and from gaps around the holes the intercooler pipes run through.
  24. It looks like a reasonably easy install. All the brackets for the pipes have slotted bolt holes and the piping looks like it goes together easily enough. The cooler its self looks like it mounts on 3 brackets 2 on the bottom and 1 on top. The only tricky bits would be trimming the bumper reinforcement and a little bit of the bar bellow the indicators for the pipes to fit but should not require any more than marking it out and careful trimming with a jig saw with a steady hand. I think you will probably have to do away with you air box too. Mine cam with a pod installed and I can’t see how an air box would have fitted in there. I’m still trying to work out how I’m going to fit a cold air partition in.
  25. Has any one pulled the front bar of there Stagea? I’m planing to pull mine off to fit some mesh in front of the intercooler, to hide it a bit and protect it from stone chips but can see my self spending a day crawling around trying to find all the attachment points and get it off without busting any clips. Dose any one have any tips, photos of a Stagea without a bar, the back surface of a bar off the car or can tell me where all the attachment points are.
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