paulR32gtr

Just jammin here but I assume heat would be the cause. Differences in thermal expansion between the metal shaft and the ceramic exhaust wheel could cause it to detach... Whether the heat is a result of exhaust restriction or excessive shaft rpms would depend on the setup I spose.

Were these a straight replacement with the stock ECU ? No difference between R32 and R33 variants ?

Picked up my GTR after it passed quarantine, battery was completely dead so got a jumpstart from the steam cleaner joint. Pulled out, fuel below empty - went and found the nearest petrol station and turned the car off ... Also drove around without my oil filler cap on in my old et pulsar - kept stalling at low revs due to oil breather / AFM - pulled over and worked it out pretty quick, oil everywhere. Luckily the cap was still wedged in between the bonnet and the rocker cover. Did it again after I had fitted a Microtech and binned the AFM, so the car kept running without a drama. Opened the bonnet a few days later - EPA woulda had a field day.

Turns out it is the injector body that is actually weeping fuel. The first thing the guy at EFI hardware said was "are you sure it's not the injector itself, those injectors are prone to leaking through the body" - guy at nissan was also doubtful that the o-ring would fail. Damn shame because now I gotta waste money on a replacement stock injector when I should be purchasing a bigger set for use with the PFC when it arrives.

You wont be able to get it to text without OCR software - and whether the text matches is a completely different story... Well done Lucien - definately easier to use!!

There is a vacuum diagram in the R32 GTR manual that shows the stock boost control solenoid and how it hooks up, as well as how the stock actuators are fed boost. This would be best for you to trace how it is supposed to be set up. Lwells has posted a copy of this manual in general maint. section - download quick! Otherwise search on the net for it. It sounds like the person that installed your engine has blocked the pipe that the stock solenoid uses to bleed air off the boost feed to the actuators. The only way is to get that diagram, understand how it needs to work, then go and look under your bonnet. Paul

Part numbers if anyone needs em in future: R32 GTR / RB26DETT Rear O-ring - 16412F - $9.50 Rear Insulator - 16603F - $13.35 Front seal - 16603G - $5.35 Faxed me the diagram - got all the part nos for fuel rail etc - wish I had that damn software they use.

Yeah sounds right - will give nissan a call tomorrow morning. I was just wondering if the normal off the shelf rubber o-rings you get at Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco would do for injectors - however it seems not. Now I wonder what Nissan want for 6 of these little things .... better make sure I am sitting down when I call them ....

Whoever installed the rebuilt engine may not have re-connected the line that sends to the stock solenoid / your boost controller. Maybe they blocked up the outlet so you are on low boost until the engine is completely run in?

Ignore above - the answer is yes they are specific fuel type o-rings. [EDIT] and no - the normal off the shelf ones will not do. [/EDIT]

My no. 2 injector is weeping a tiny bit of fuel through the o-ring. I went and got some replacement o-rings from an EFI place only to find they are too big (after pulling the fuel rail off of course). I have o-rings that will fit - but they came out of one of those big packs from Supercheap - my question is - will these do - they look like good quality? Or do I need ones that are made out of a special fuel+heat resistant rubber ? Paul

For anybody installing an AVC-R in their GTR - heres a how to for what I ended up doing to minimise hassle with mounting the solenoid / running lines. Works well and I dont have any problems with spikes etc. The R32 GTR manual has a very handly Vacuum diagram - invaluable in working out which line goes where. Dont think the R33 one has it, but the 32 one should be same/similar to 33/34. 1. Remove / chop section of stock line with boost restrictor in it (yellow line on the hose off the stock solenoid). This line is the one that feeds the stock solenoid. 2. Remove stock solenoid of course 3. Make up a mount out of some thick/solid aluminium (bunnings has approx 30cmx30cm squares of it) - drill out two large holes big enough to insert the factory solenoid mount rubbers (so they line up with the stock mount), and also four holes to mount the AVC-R solenoid onto. This means you can completely separate the solenoid from the chassis with the factory rubber mounts, and the AVC-R rubber also helps - I am unable to hear the solenoid operating whatsoever. 4. Connect the factory lines up to the new solenoid - remember the one that had the boost restrictor in it is the feed from the manifold, the other the one we are going to use to feed the wastegate actuators. Use the hose clamps supplied with your AVC-R on all connections. 5. The line that returns to the intake does so into the factory blow off return pipe just before it connects up to the intake of the rear turbo. Remove this little piece of hose and block up the intake pipe nipple to avoid dirt getting into your intake (use vacuum caps found at your local tee piece stand and a cable tie for good measure). From that hard line that was returning to the intake, run some vacuum hose and pop a tee piece on the end (I used a Y piece which fits with the angles a bit better. 6. Now diconnect the hoses off your wastegate actuators and cap the factory feeds to these. On the rear I used another vacuum cap and cable tie, the other end was a bastard to get to without removing pipes, so I put a straight piece in the hose and capped+tied it. Please note I also have an Apexi pod kit, can imagine it would be very hard getting to these with the factory air box in place so you may need to remove this is you are still using this. 7. Now off the Y piece, run vacuum host to each wastegate actuator. Use the hose clamps supplied with your AVC-R on all connections. 8. Check all connections again, ensure hoses are free standing where appropriate to avoid melted/worn vacuum hoses and you are done. Long bent needle nose pliers are your friend during this entire process.

I should've figured Nissan would use a method that provides a fail safe lower boost pressure if the solenoid dies - albeit at the expense of boost response. It's just so tight in that engine bay to trace out how it's set up - feeling around under the intake manifold provides no information whatsoever! Thanks for the tip - will sort it out in the morning

Kind of wishing I bought one of those now Naah I am sure the AVC-R will be good once I work out what I've done wrong. Might just run some new hoses straight off the actuators.

Sorry was a little unclear - was referring to the stock GTR solenoid hoses - there is one that has a brass restrictor in it - is this the hose that goes to the wastegate actuators on a stock GTR ? Or the other one that does not have the restrictor in it ? Its easier to use these stock hoses than running my own.

[accidentally posted this in the Tut/diy/faq section] I have installed an AVC-R boost controller on my R32 GTR - everything wired up properly, all readings correct - however I am unable to get over about .7kg/cm2 ~ 10psi. I can hear the solenoid ticking away - however settings do not make a difference - the boost also acts the same with the AVC-R set to OFF. I suspect this has to do with the solenoid plumbing. I basically plumbed it up using the same hoses as the stock solenoid - removing the boost restrictor at the same time. Oh and also unplugging/removing the stock solenoid. The solenoid is using the correct ports (NO and COM). Question is - are there any other overboost safety devices / restrictors that might be stopping me? Has anyone else had this problem? Also, which hose goes to the actuators - the one with the restrictor or the one without? Paul

I have installed an AVC-R boost controller on my R32 GTR - everything wired up properly, all readings correct - however I am unable to get over about .7kg/cm2 ~ 10psi. I can hear the solenoid ticking away - however settings do not make a difference - the boost also acts the same with the AVC-R set to OFF. I suspect this has to do with the solenoid plumbing. I basically plumbed it up using the same hoses as the stock solenoid - removing the boost restrictor at the same time. Oh and also unplugging/removing the stock solenoid. The solenoid is using the correct ports (NO and COM). Question is - are there any other overboost safety devices / restrictors that might be stopping me? Has anyone else had this problem? Also, which hose goes to the actuators - the one with the restrictor or the one without? Paul

Oops! Shows you should not repeat eveything you hear. Sorry for the misinfo.

From memory "steel" turbine wheels are usually made of MAHL - not sure of the actual composition but high temp resistance, light weight etc.

Also - does anyone know any workshops in Melbourne that have a 4wd dyno and are good with the PowerFC's ??

Self checks, sensors + connections or something - sounds pretty nifty. Have installed Microtech's before - which was straight forward - but this sounds like a breeze in comparison. Nice to have a car that is valued by the aftermarket parts mfrs! Cheers

Are R32 GTR PowerFC's designed to plug in to your factory loom ie Unplug std. ECU, plug in PowerFC, go get tuned? Or do you need to make a new loom up? I want to be able to revert the car back to stock easily.

Know it's a bit late now - but for all else in future god forbid - the best idea I have heard if your car gets stolen (especially if offering $1k reward) is to call your local cabbie companies and offer the reward if they can track it down.

I only have a 1 litre bottle (about $8) but I think they said they had a 4 or 5 litre available. Black squarish bottle - white sticker usual red/blue stripes - says: Nissan Automatic Transmission Fluid Special Blend Matic-D Part number on the invoice is the number in my last post. Bottle also mentions to use it as power steering fluid for R32 GTR. They told me that this is the stuff to use for the HICAS reservoir. Paul

Slightly old post - but anyhow - I obtained some "Special Blend Matic-D" ATF from my local Nissan dealer (Moorabbin, VIC out on Napean Hwy). Number listed on front of the bottle is 10130-89901A if that helps at all. Paul