shif_tea

yeah but i think he means the car was dynoed with a busted piston and with new ones (not leaking pressure) it should probably produce better power. Plus with the engine cleaned up like new you'd think you'd get a little bit. Was it the same dyno??

you talking about installing an smic? or fmic?

dammit, i have hidden my boost controller in the hope that it won't be spotted in the event of a search. Its an avcr, put controller in the glove box and assumed cops wouldn't know what to look at under bonnet. Bummer, may have underestimated them Anyway i'm pretty sure a-pillar mounts are illegal as Wink said cause they're above the dash. It would prolly depend on what policeman u got looking too i guess

DAmn thats sexy. Nice work man. Wanna swap for an 87 vl commodore?? I"d be scared to drive it, its too pretty, do u have a truck you cart it around on??

yeah i reckon. When u think about it, 395 bux each car is quite cheap. That sounds more correct up top. Wouldn't trust car dealers as far as i could kick em.

i got a quote on bendix ultimates from autoone on anzac pde in kensington for like 87 bux for fronts on an r33 gtst. I've had prices of about 120-130 from repco and other places. Lot of people rate them pretty well as a street pad.

yeah same ey!! I WANT MY MEMBER BAR , it puts us above the pleb masses

yeah i'd be in for the next one too, i guess depending on when it is.

yeah looks sexy i must say. I'm liking the new look. Nice work prank!

Skylines are really reliable when left to their own devices. AS you noted all them engine failures were high powered motors, and failed whilst being flogged (ie leans out at 8000rpm or something like that) I've heard of a few skylines with 200 and even 300K on the clock without needing to be opened up. Mine has done 135000 kms now (i doubt highly that its genuine k's too, reckon it was wound back in japan) and has only had minor problems. Not blowing any smoke, doin anything too problematic and hasn't cost me anymore than my old vl commo did to keep running. Its only very mildy modded as u can see in signature and i drive it daily heaps, as well as long trips away. (Done 60, 000 since i bought it 18 months ago) So unless something unusual happens you should be right in that department (however you;'ll likely get bitten by the modifying bug) A few places i know to get work done, which are highly recommended, BEL performance in Castle Hill, Advan performance in Silverwater, UAS as u already mentioned, Unigroup engineering, and theres plenty of others i'm sure. If u have a bit more of a poke around the site you'll find all this info anyway. As for buying i'd say buy privately but get the car checked out either by nrma or talk to one of the above garages and i'm sure they can do it. As R33S2 said, look at the for sale secction on here, theres plenty to check out. You'll get a better price, probably nicer car with more mods and if u get it checked out properly should be a good car.

yeah f'shizzle my nizzle. Last time i busted a cap in da ass of a mini truck driver was the happiest day of my life. On a serious note, is this the same guy that started a thread stressing out cause he bought an r34 and the horn didn't work??

yeah cheers man, for some reason hasn't happened again...weird Looked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any, might be a small one though or a small crack if its intermittent, might have to look closer Thanks dude

lol i bought my car from them 18 months ago (lol i did get ripped off too, wish i knew then what i know now). So definitely if u want to sell your car prolly not a bad idea to go to them. Their staff didn't seem any more full of shit than any other car yard ...that said one of the young sellers there tried to tell me it was a series 2 when its only a 1.5, but that was more i think cause he had no idea rather than bsing.

Hey all, Just did a search and couldn't find anything, although i'm sure i've seen similar to this before. Today on the way to work my car started sitting at around 1200-1500 rpm on idle, consistantly. This was after about 30 mins of driving so the car was well and truly warm. Sounded like the accelerator cable was being stuck or something but checked that and it was ok. Got to work turned car off and back on again and it was ok. Just wondering if anyone has some ideas of things i can check quickly, hoping it was nothing but just in case it happens again. Cheers

lol can't people just realise this was just a bad situation, neither did anything really wrong, sometimes shit just happens. Both have legitimate reasons for what they did and i can see boths point of view. Funny how everyone sided with maximum till they found out the excuse now everyone is dissin him. How was he to know? If he did in truth delete his pm with phone number then he did what i probably would do a week or 2 after hearing no reply. Anyway relax. I would suggest deleting this thread and maximumrpm and oscar sorting out this problem privately. Everyone knows by now that noone is ripping off anyone and it was just a bad run of luck that caused this problem. Anyway just my opinion... Cheers ps oscar i do think you're being a bit harsh, surely u can see why he did this

hey man, i dunno if this really matters but i've heard someone say that they would prefer tomei, greddy over hks just because it they have more fixed points. As in the tomei and greddy (amongst othersy) have 5 tightening points to hold it in place, whereas the hks ones only have 3, thus making it more reliable (theoretically) and less likely to slip out of place Like i said, i'm not sure if realistically this is an issue, i think they would all do pretty much the same job as long as u pick a decent brand. EDIT: The greddy ones from nengun are pretty cheap and i've heard they're good

i don't know that that would get u by legally anyway as i've heard its all about power that the car makes stock. ie it would still be a gtt which would be illegal for u to drive. Same as if u buy a car that is under the power to weight threshold and mod it it doesn't matter cause they go by factory specs. Not positive about this but its something to consider. like funky said, buy an NA, so much less hassle.

yeah the one on the hybrid website is what i used for my r33.

yeah mate, my r33 gtst does better than that, even when i'm floggin it. Like miller said, o2 sensor and a good service might sort it out.

yeah ellie is right, just means by shortening the throw in the shifter you can physically apply more pressure to the gearbox/synchros etc making bad shifts much worse. Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and learn to use it and it shouldn't be an issue. There are C's shortshifter kits being sold by Gr33dy in the groupbuys or business sellers section. Have a look there for prices, i've heard its not too difficult to fit yourself if you aren't bad with tools

yeah man you'll need to get a nipple drilled into the pipework up near where the original one used to be. As paul said, its gotta be done. My kit came with it predrilled and nipple included. I'm sure any metalwork place can do it for ya

hahha yeah i thought it was a joke at the start but wasn't sure. I'm starting to think you've bought a lemon of a car mate, what with all these horn and light problems. Maybe the best thing to do would be torch the car and buy a new one... Good luck.

probably a good idea to check before u purchased the car, but wink is right, compression test normally gives u some idea

i can understand people crying when they buy a car and the engine detonates shortly after, but seriously its a horn man. Relax and get it fixed....and headlights....no major issue, probably a bulb... I'd guess maybe 20bux all up lol and satanic you're too nice

lol someone grabs zacks details quick...and find out which rbs have gone missing recently