gtrken

Josh , you only live like 2 minutes away from my shop. Come in and talk, we don't bite. Cheers Ken

It's written in Jap so a bit hard to translate. What info do you need to know as I used to have one in mine? Cheers Ken

So this is on the car your selling? Would suggest that the only thing preventing your engine/turbos from dying is the wastegate spring are probably lifting off. Have you checked the A/F's , do you know what boost it was running after you took the hose off but before you caned it down the road, have you any idea what your doing..... * shakes head in wonderment...* Cheers Ken PS , put the hose back on, take the little restrictor out of the line ( the lump that will be at the little yellow band ) and reconnect the hose. Put a Tee in the line going to the electronic boost solenoid which is the little black box at the rear rh side of the engine bay next to the brake booster. There is a vacuum line underneath it which will give a fairly accurate reading.

Do you mean 30.1 or 13.1? At 30.1 it wouldn't even start. Cheers Ken

Not legally and suggest that maybe you might want to get people to PM there reply.... Cheers Ken

Hicas, dunno, get a mechanic who knows what there doing and has the fault codes to check it for you. Grid controller is working fine, if the light comes ON then there is a problem, not when it's off. If you have it activated and turn a corner slowly, it is binding up the clutch packs in the centre diff ( ATTESSA) cos the pressure is still being applied to them by the controller. What is then happening is it is trying to turn the front and rear diffs at the same rate when in actual fact there is supposed to be a difference. If you know someone with a proper 4wd( ie. patrol, landcruiser ) get them to put it in 4wd and then turn slowly around a corner. You will hear the wheels skipping as the tyres should be rolling at a different rate due to the different arcs they are travelling but the locking of the diff won't allow it. That is what you are doing to your GTR by doing that with the controller. There should be an auto setting which disengages it automatically ( which is why it's called auto) once you get below 15-20KMH. Cheers Ken

Sold.

Camber?? On a set of R33 shocks. I doubt it as they aren't even connected to the top arms. Cheers Ken

Was going to the big project on this thing ( RB30 etc ) but have decided I am definitely a GTR man and as such have ordered anther R32 GTR. So it's for sale and is one of the cleanest ones around. Mods include R34 GTR FMIC GReddy plenum and 80mm infiniti throttle body. Autometer boost and oil pressure gauges on pillar pod 3in Jap exhaust with very free flow Cat and one piece dump/front pipe Kei Office coilovers all round Bosch 910 in tank pump Brand new exedy 9 puck clutch and pressure plate Turbosmart BOV Advanti 5 spoke 17x8's with reasonable firestones 78KM on the clock and I believe is genuine. Nismo 400R type front bar and side skirts Car has run 196 rwhp on 7 psi and a fairly rich mixture ( still on std computer) Interior is basically immaculate with one little mark on the drivers seat and mechanically is very sound. Price is $21K neg and can email pics and SKYLINE plates are extra. Before you ask I want $2,500 for them.... Contact me at work or via PM Cheers Ken

Duncan , know the feeling , we are still building brakes, installing clutches, re making exhausts. What comp number are you? Ours is 828 Cheers Ken

Good timing fellas I will be coming over to service my old R32 GTR at Targa this year and am looking for someone I can loan jacks, stands , jerry cans etc off. As W A is a long and expensive trip we are trying to keep transport costs down, especially of spare parts. If you are mechanically minded and want to service on the the event, an arrangement can be made as well. PM or contact me on the number below. This is the new owners first time so don't expect anything magical but we hope to finish and build on the experience for next year. Cheers Ken

Hehehe. You bite well and you should know that the internet is the home of the 12 year mechanical engineer. Yes I do agree that people tend to follow the general consensus of opinion without even knowing why. I like my 32's but a 33 got the closest to winning Targa Tas o/right which is better than a 32 has done , which to me is a better indication of a well handling road car, not a purpose built race car. Anyway, I hope this helps Karen with her assignment.. Cheers ken

BP Ultimate 98 cos it's the only 98 avaliable in the West... Have been told that Shell is the go for GTR's but would be nice to try it. Used to get 350-400Km's to the tank out of the R ( yea I know but I'm old and a careful driver.Bwahaha) Cheers Ken

Good info Andrew! But I still like my 32's cos the handling on the limit keeps you awake and they did win Bathurst.... even though the pack of arseholes didn't want it too. Cheers Ken

To do it properly it will have to be about 15-20mm to allow for the bore on the hub and then the correct bore to locate the wheels. You should never use the studs alone to hold the wheel on, it should always be snug on the centre bore. Which also means you are going to need longer wheel studs.... I can still see a kicking coming up.... Cheers Ken

No , the TPS wires reach with no mods and a Q45 80mm throttle body will set you back $300 upwards. You will also need to change your intercooler piping and the big IAC pipe will have to find a home in the inlet pipe somewhere. I think if you get the proper GReddy FMIC then it already has that pipe there. Cheers Ken

Mark , there is an off position which returns it to normal and I have( had ) one in my old R which I used if it look likr things were going to get *spirited* in the traction/conering department. Only thing you have to watch is if it is set high and you turn it on, it may bring up the 4wd light which means you then have to stop the car, turn it off and bring the setting up slowly. They work well and set with a heavy rear bias can give predictable drif.... err , fun. Cheers Ken

" one lady owner" The rest were Japanese male drifters... Cheers Ken

Think you will find they are called "Sumitomo" calipers.hehe If they don't fit over those , they sure wont fit with Brembos. The offset of a GTS-T is around 35 and the offset of a GTR is around 20-25 which means they should stick OUT and rub on your guards , not IN and rub on the calipers. I can see a kicking coming up... Cheers Ken

HKS torque split controller is good for wet cond while in competition . Can set the split to keep the drive consistent and help stop the tail sliding before the front starts to bite. Prolonged use will not do the clutch packs in the transfer case a lot of good as your running a constant slippage. It is also a bastard to turn at slow speed unless it's in the auto position... What differences are you expecting from the R33/R34 combo unless it is out of a VSpec which has a faster acting ATTESSA computer( but is also coupled with the hydraulic diff) Cheers Ken

Unless yours is a GTS4 then the pan rails on your sump are different to the RB26 so the options are limited. Don't believe the GTR sump doesn't surge and if you are using the original RB20 box then it's life span will be in minutes once you crank up the boost. I think you will find a fair difference between the two wiring harnesses and I assume you got the GTR computer ? You can run aftermarket but if staying with factory then the afm's will be needed. Cheers Ken

Woody!! Sorry to hear about your dad.. You have to come round the new shop some time and catch up with Glenn and I. We need someone to get the pizzas... Cheers Ken

Not really , just drive you and your passenger nuts. If it's really bad , there may be a problem with a warped plate but as long as you can engage reverse of first while stationary , then it will be ok. Cheers Ken

Z32 air flow meters are between $420-$700 ea brand new depending on who you know/where you go. Will also need to stuff around with inlet piping etc cos your originals are 65mm ish and Z32 are 80mm ish. $1200 is fairly pricey to remap a Power FC. Shame you aren't in WA as we are renowned for sorting em out plus we just got the Datalogit today ( laptop tuneable ) Cheers Ken

Usually find that ( caster bushes and CV boots ) with GTR's that have done 70-100K. Have you checked your front top arm bushes cos if what you have described are gone, can bet the bushes are flogged or have been replaced? Most common reason for the front end wanders/strange clunk from the front. Cheers Ken