r33_racer

ahh so half inch studs/bolts actually are close to half inch..not just closest metric equivalent full value. I swear someone called the 12mm head bolts/studs half inch even though half inch is 12.7mm. Isnt 11mm an odd size since most bolts and studs come in multiples of 2 unless you go relatively small.

so another mexican is turning banana bender hey?

The front of my cage is bolted and the rear welded..its cams approved.

I believe excessive dust can cause squeeling. Everytime you wash it out its ok. Maybe the pads your using have a high dust release content. Also check your rotors for grooves..maybe you got a small stone or chip stuck between the pad and rotor?

Slicks generally range from around say $350 to about $550 each. Thats the likes of kuhmos to michys and all the others inbetween. Obviously size plays a role in price and the prices i just stated are around for 17" rim. The compounds will vary for different sorts of racing...the biggest factor is time on the track. You can get a qualifying slick which will give you maximum traction for just one lap or around 2mins worth of full ball and will get into working temp almost as soon as you leave the pits anything over that one lap and they will start falling apart and/or your times will worsen. Or a medium-soft/medium compound which might last long enough for say 5-10 laps at full noise and after that too much heat and they deteriorate and slow you down. You get my point about the sorts. From what ive been told they only have about 3-4mm of actual good rubber after that it wont work to its full potential. If you race every month and obviousely depending on the length of time, circuit, and car you can get 6 months outta em..some people can get a years worth. All depends on the x factors that will play a role in your game. How long is a piece of string....really?

i know the rb25det head bolts go into the rb30 block..i would assume the rb25de ones are identical. 10mm x 1.5P or 1.25P not sure its probably the later being its going into steel so a fine thread is probably ok. Without checking, my money is on 10mm X 1.25P. I believe next metric size up is the 12mm bolts which are called half inch. So if your gonna retap it, are you gonna oversize to half inch? I dont know if the rb25de/t head bolts will work with a gtr head. I would say you would just use the ones that came off that head as its the height of the head that matters..so long as the thread size and pitch is the same you should be laughing. Question for your question, Doesnt rb26 use half inch head bolts/studs anyway? Isnt that why you have to drill and tap out the block to suit the 26's larger headbolts? A 10mm in a 12mm would leave alot of slop.

Yes i agree with you. I have been learning this as ive been going along. But too many people seem to base their assumptions after just one use of a certain product and some people will only use a certain product regardless of how good another is...purely because thats all they know or want to know. Ignorance never works to your advantage. Our race car is a bitsa as well. So long as the package works harmonically....there shouldnt be too much more to worry about.

The teins were street spec...but came with 10kg fronts and 8kg rears. I was abit vague..i apologise...but the springs that come std with them are generally too stiff unless your drifting. I managed to find some softer tein springs from fulcrum and after abit of stuffing around its not so bad anymore. I have nothing against Jap parts at all, but ive always noticed that the japanese just copy european stuff and streamline it into a more affordable market with as little compromises as possible ultimately ending up with a pretty damn good product, but just not as good as the euros. Im not jap bashing..i love jap parts. But my father did his apprenticeship at merc benz and hes impressed upon me from a young age that anything that comes from germany is generally of good quality if not the best. Obviously it doesnt apply to everything, but generally anything automotive whether its trucks or cars they seem to shine brighter then most.

Weve got teins in our race car...i wish i had researched a little more before hand and/or waited for SK's packages to be released....Japanese springs are soo goddamn stiff it aint funny. First race we had all the goodies in and setup. Just because the springs were soo stiff it didnt let any other suspension component actually work and we couldnt get the power to the ground. Changed springs and were abit better now...you can actually half change the balance and weight transfer whilst driving...before the car just stayed perfectly flat whether you were turning a corner or spinning out at 160kph. each to their own.

OK well i live in everton park...ill give you 150 and ill pick it up. I got one of those bloudy copies and under high boost it sticks open and just whistles its tits off whilst i lose power. Deal anygood?

Is it a genuine HKS ssq?

run the Lada Samara neil. It will be extremely different. Or did you get rid of it for the micra?...havent checked Nakama for ages.

Yeh new exhausts do smell, genereally all the paint or anti rust stuff sprayed on burns off or slowly cooks on. It generally goes away after a few days. If its been heavily coated on it can even smoke off. If its coming off your front/dump pipe it can give you the impression something is wrong when it starts coming out from under the bonnet note. if its a brand name exhaust thats coated with like a hpc or something it probably wont smoke as much if at all.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...l-lub_rset.html

Well we know the lash type require oil pressure cause they are hydraulic dependant for their movement. But you wouldnt think it would starve them of oil by decreasing the flow. We would be effectively increasing the pressure by reducing the feeds size. Ok so they fit all but reccomended for only solid type...well that doesnt help the situation

You could probably take it as a 'i dont know' mate. Ill apologise about no response to your question. But maybe further down the line someone will see it and actually know about it. good luck.

3/4" is about 19mm or 19.05 (if your a fitter'n'turner) which is a pretty bloudy big ID. So assuming that running nothing higher then a normal det oil pump and some form of head restriction or not?? T'ing into the return is prob gonna be ok. In the case of running a N1 oil pump or a/m equivalent with no head restriction and T'ing into the return will probably (no exact proof yet) cause some sort of return restriction. (based on Joels comment about the T'ing) So in the case of that setup occuring then the most likely and easy fix is to give the head return its own bung and line into the sump somewhere. Otherwise it will be time to remove head and put restrictors in. Everyone else agree that would be the obvious fix/mod to rectify or prevent that problem from occuring. In my own engine Im going to run restrictors/the std head return into the sump/another return from back of head into sump and hopefully that will be enough to manage the oil control problem.(race car though) needs to be overkilled.

Im also interested in the whereabouts of the restrictors..got a 25det head going on rb30e block. As for that oil return I would say maybe into the top wing of the sump somewhere. Though the guide says T'ing into turbo oil return, if its not a great thing to do maybe add that to the guide joel and when we come up with a solid 2nd solution it can be added. Cheers.

You think you may know the lines, but you wont. Follow someone else who is doing well and over taking everyone and just try and stick to their line. If you can mimick them it will give you a starting point on the what line to take. I found that the best way to get a descent start on my first race meet. Last race of the night i ended up coming 5th outta the 20 odd cars. Thought that was pretty good for my first time racing. First two race were shit house though, came like 14th and like 11th. So dont expect too much of yourself. Enjoy it. Its great fun. I race a white r33 with a really lame sticker configuration on it which my father chose. Gold rims. Might see ya around sometime.

i know im nearly 2 years behind here...but ive found that with re55s weve run 26 on the front and about 24 on the back cold. In qld, they tend to grow about 4-5 psi, so hot were getting about 30-32front and 30back. Thats worked the best for us. Trying michy s8a's soon, will be interesting to see what they need. lol wonder if anyone even reads this. Its an old thread.

Base Timing? Timing gun and hook it up to battery and no.1 coil and shine it on the timing marks on the top right hand corner of the harmonic dampner and see what the timing is at.

How can they be camber adjustable? If by camber you mean damper adjustable, then yeh they could be right. Cause last time i checked on an r33 the coilover has nothing to do with the camber adjustment....at all, well maybe if you lower the car insanely and naturally the suspension will pull in and under giving a natural cambering effect. sorry to talk shit in your thread mate. Just trying to clear that up.

maybe the headwork took you backwards and the extra power from increased compression and the rest brought it back upto your previous power? its abit strange, though ive heard of people not making any extra power from doing a fresh rebuild. Generally if your engine is in piss poor condition, after a full rebuild it should run alot better, make better power with less inefficiency due to everyting being returned to factory spec or better.

That what i meant by not being cams certified for the door to door stuff. Hence why most would run a dedicated race car. You dont want your road car getting all banged up...or even possibly completely stuffed. Apologies for the inaccurate information, i was being very vague with the details and just rambled off what was coming to mind in no particular order. Cheers for filling in the details hrd-hr30.

Price mate?