r33_racer

Yep i can agree with to4gtr, we also get our pads from sbc, using sbs brake pads, dual carbons on the front and carbon ceramic on the rear. Our pads cost more, but i can back up to4gtrs claims.

Yep, i understand the reliability side, the lower the revs the less strain on everything. But if it comes to the crunch and were really desperate i know my we will want the extra 1k or so to help stretch out the gears, so long as its feasable.

okedoke..so it is possible. I was hoping to hear something like that. But whether the gains of extra rpm justify the cost of an aftermarket dampner?? Like i said, was just curious. Sorry for hijacking.

sorry r31Nismoid i meant safe limit for rb30 hybrid...not straight out rb26. paulr33 But do you know for sure that the power will drop off that dramatically? If you have a head with some fairly wild cams in it, port and polished, solid lifters and the right sized turbo say 35/40 with .82/1.06 rear that power will not be made in excess after 6 grand. Im curious to know, cause the 25/30 were building will be limited to 7k, however if extra rpm can be used it means you can hang onto a gear longer so long as the power is still climbing, fair enough if it isnt then no need to rev it past that point. My understanding is that stroking increases torque, whilst oversize boring increase the engines revviness. Weve stroked it by using the 3 litre block, but weve increased bore by oversizing it. weve gone both ways, so i would think its possible to get some extra rpm outta the engine, so long as the harmonics are addressed and its gonna make power past that 6k point.

I think with std harmonic balancer...around 7-7500 is about the safe limit...what im curious to know is how far could the rb30/25/26 hybrid rev to with an aftermarket balancer like the ati or ross ones? 8,9,10....? Sorry in advanced if ive hijacked the thread.

fuel cut wont be there with a powerfc...once thats in...no speed limit....no R&R...no nothing except whatever the tuner puts in. Mate if youve done alot of work on v8's...a car is a car, if you take something off just make sure you put in on the same way. Just dont get too cosy thinking you can hang off the front quarter panels and drop your legs into the engine bay....youll be lucky if you can get your arms around half the shit in there. If you get stuck...its just a matter of jumping on sau and asking for help....more then enough people on here to offer it. Power..well depends what dyno and how it reads...but im guessing around 180rwkw's. Some people have probably made more..and some have probably made less. When i had only those mods on my car except i had pfc ebc...on 12psi mine only made 170 odd rwks.

Im pretty sure he did say 2 mechanical gauges and 1 electrical gauge...sounds like hes in a workshop or works for a workshop so im guessing you didnt try three std gauges? And im guessing they tried the same gauges on another car to make sure it wasnt reading 92psi...seriously what are the chances of three gauges all stuffing up at the same time? There isnt some highly unlikely piece of shit or something that is blocking the gallery to the oil pressure sender feed and causing whatever amount of flow to equal 92psi? Just thinking outside the usual square here especially since the basics have been checked.

I know alot of drag racers use microtech and also alot of rotaries use them...rotary performance place down the road here at brendale, the bloke specialises in microtech + rotaries...Everyone knows that rotaries and fuel consumption never ever go hand in hand! Obviously the pick for people who arent worried about light load tuning for good road use fuel consumption. I dont know this spec for microtech is for sure....i just put 2 and 2 together from whats being stated in this thread and what ive heard from down the road.

I have a 96 S2 33 and it has no abs...my mates s14 s2 96 has abs..my bros 96 s2 r33 also has no abs...but our s2 33 97 model came with abs.

Not to be rude mate, but if you can see 1 thou movement in something then you must have some pretty damn good eyes, you do realise that 40 thou is 1mm, 20thou is .5mm so 1 thou is 1/20th of .5mm =.025mm in my book anything that moves that much is within tolerance. More then likely its bushes that need replacing. My bros castor bushes crack/squeek everytime he reverses and then breaks. My castor bushes crack/squeek whenever i break after going forward.

13 & 8.7 kg/mm is beyond belief. We run 6 & 4.5 kg/mm on the 2WD race cars and 4 & 3.5 kg/mm on the 2WD road cars. (SK) - As stated by SK, the 4 and 3.5kg/mm im sure would be fine for your road car which sees no track work. About the springs, i think they will make them to the same as what you have on now, they will just be a weaker spring.

He said its an ignition cut, not fuel cut. The same with our powerfc pro it uses an ignition cut rev limiter, whenever i hit rev limiter flat changing, gunshots go off and people put fingers in their ears when i go past. Doesnt seem that loud when your inside the car with a helmet on haha. Jay why dont you just go for a powerfc instead of bothering with a jaycar kit. Save your pennies or go a wolf 3d like your mate uses, then he can tune it maybe?

Why dont you just make some out of copper? We make ours out of 1.2mm thick copper sheet, and anneal it before we put it on and do up the bolts. Works fine, and they are reusable.

if you could get some photos...would help alot. We could tell exactly which way its sticking out and what could be causing it. but chances are the accident may have had something to do with it.

i thought that generally 1lb of flow equals about 10 horsies...so if it flows about 65lbs then that would equate to roughly 650 hp... so wouldnt that be off in saying its rated at 550 but flows 65lbs? Or is it the compressor can flow that much, but the exhaust side restricts to that 550hp rating? Im guessing the latter question answer my original one?

How do you mean sticks out further? Like the wheel protrudes past the guard more on one side then the other? or does the wheel on one side stick forward more then the other? How much do you reckon it sticks 'out' by?

I think its actually water feed from the water pump...you just need to route a line from where it comes off the water pump to the turbo. and remove the bracket and line that goes behind the head and around to the turbo. The water feed tube off the pump is 5/16 or 8mm...so you will need that size hose to suit, but check if your water feed in turbo is 3/8 10mm incase it might be a problem.

Thats interesting, i would like to know how to fab that up, might be useful on the new 25/30 until a dry sump setup is sorted out. Hopefully someone has some more information in regards to making that work.

cp do make pistons for rb30/25, they are called rb30/26

pack our your cas with two washers for each bolt...you just need to measure the cover thickness of the rubber spots where it bolts through and make sure its the same distance away. Then you can have your cover off and use your car. I think from memory when i measured the cam cover thickness it was like 3.xmm

whether your car is lowered or not will make no difference to a strut brace...everything in engine bay stays the same regardless....you will need to see for yourself whether one will fit....if you have some basic fabing skills attempt making one yourself. If you made the i/c piping yourself then give it ago....

If the spokes arent really really close on your wheel, you can even skip all that and just shine torch through wheel and have a look. Depends how lazy you are or what type of rims you have.

yeh..where the old rubber lines expanded from excessive pressure...you lost some pedal feel/gained extra pedal travel...the new ss lines dont expand at all...so its a more positive feel all the way. Not only that, its probably piece of mind knowing that the lines are superior, its one less area that could let you down...especially when racing.

isnt that for area of a circle...pi x radius squared. based on that calculator thingy i didnt fudge it up...sweet. have to keep that site handy

did you fix that....if you eliminated that problem, then tested we could see whats happening...not too hard to buy some brake fluid from servo and top it up and test it straight away.