r33_racer

check that all the relays behind the kickpanel where the ecu goes are all there and plugged in properly. I think they are the green and blue ones from memory. What about the boost solenoid option in the menu? Dont you have to turn that off before the car will start or something. I cant remember now, damn im pretty sure there was something with that option. Or maybe its turn it on. Question about the car. Is it in a r32 or in something else? The rb20 that is.

Sounds like what paul said. May I ask what mods you have done to the car exactly?

Generally the white in the exhaust is not enough fuel, black everything is normally too much and a brownish/orangy tinge is normally an octane bumping additive eg. tolulene. Dont know what the white shit is exactly....interested to find out though.

I find that hard to believe mate....our rb30det with a gt35/40 on 18psi is only making 240rwkw.... If your making that magical 300rwkws on 1 bar your turbo truly is magical. I have a gt30r on my own r33 and im running 1 bar atm...sure as hell aint 400rwhp! Not 100% sure but i think there maybe a difference in the sensors, maybe the plug? I know there was a difference in the rb20's. Obviously read ya plugs, cause it seems like its over fueling when coming onto boost and the whole mixture isnt getting burnt and is igniting as it passes out the exhaust. Or it is ya timing and its retarding something fierce when ya start boosting. Strange one. I dont understand how the timing would do something like that once its set during tuning, it cant change by itself well not that dramatically especially with a/m ecu.

may i ask what boost that was on? I would also like to know what rear housing was used...im thinking the 1.06 i think.

by the sounds and looks of it...the oil in and out is a pad type flange with the plain hole in the guts. Hence why you prob have adapter plates made up with like a hose tail on the end. braided lines and fittings wont do you any good unless you can then adapt them to the flanges or you find some a/m adapters ready to take fittings and braided lines. If im right, the only way i can see you getting away from the pad type setup is to tap out the two holes and put fitting directly into the turbo top and bottom and then get ya braided lines to suit....s/s teflon lined is the go:) My old turbo was pad type oil in and out, had alot of those problems with it also. I reckon every turbo should be tapped for fittings straight out of the factory, even oil return.

The catch can needs to vent to atmo or somewhere...crankcase pressure will build up and bad breath will come out somewhere else. Std breather goes back into intake pipe so instead just put a little filter off a hose tail on your catch can somewhere and let it breath off that.

sounds about right. They go from your lower control arm to the sub chassis under the radiator.

Maybe the extra viscosity range required about 2 bux more worth of additives...so they add an extra 20 bux on it...or maybe supercheap thinks they can rip us off by upping it by 20 bux because we see a bigger range on the bottle.

sweet as...learnt something new This is really a learning thread.

Face that adapter plate and get a good oil/heat resistent gasket.

The rb30det we have is running 8.3:1 CR and I cant tell the difference in off boost torque, but then again it did go up half a litre in stroke/capacity, so that probably countered it. But with rb25's from what ive been told the difference in real world actual feeling is bugger all apparently. This comes from a tuners mouth so yeh. Cant tell directly from personal experience.

as in no more turbo cars...back to only 5.0 litre v8's. Not going into hardcore tech here..just being general. ok was only joking about it mate....christ almighty...the internet warps everything you say unless you specify it exactly.....hey this is sarcasm or hey this is a joke...im guessing that much as you are on this forum and didnt join yesterday no need to go calling names buddy. Dont actually mean that your a trader...geez. Just that your thinking impure thoughts by suggesting the porsche idea... and once again im being dead serious...people need to lighten up abit.

Its a trick question right? hes actually driving a toyota

TRADER! You choose a nissan because your a nissan man...who cares if its cost practical or not...I wouldnt care if it cost me three times a porsche to make a gtr just as competitive. It might take me three time longer to do, and complete but hey im loyal Im gonna get a sticker for the back of the 33 racecar. BANNED FROM TOURING CARS FOR A REASON! if your reading this then you know why

haha no...i dont think so...try winding the boost down and see how it goes mate. Take things one step at a time...you never do 5 things to fix one problem or you will never know what fixed it. Thats also an idea below...try some contact cleaner through your afm.

any mechanic should be able to do it..heaps of aftermarket gaskets around...alot of people make their own. I think nissan ones are like 30 bux or thereabouts. Being generous 2hrs to change the gasket. never been to a performance workshop before but guess on $/phr would be around $70...so maybe $140 all up not including parts. Thats a complete guess outta my ass...wonder how close i am? Anyone?

I believe the problem is lack of stroke/bore. Try a rb30det I guarentee it will put a smile on your dial! Im smiling Ok sorry...on a more serious note, rb20dets dont understand the word torque, but they understand revs. They are a very peaky motor, you need to rev the shit outta them to make power or punch. With the sort of mods you have everything seems abit restricted...free up the exhaust, you will find it opens up abit better down low and midrange and try an intercooler that might actually drop the intake charge air temp. If everything else fails...revert to my original suggestion.

I believe its based on measured airflow....is that right?

I thought PS was a funky japanese form of power measurement stuck somewhere between HP and KW.

Pain in the arse to fit! Maybe im just unco

Yes, i would be doing more to my engine at the sametime also...but everyone is different, cant expect everyone to do everything the same. The sad thing is though that poor tunes seem very common among alot of workshops, there are generally only a select few around who actually know what they are doing and you can trust them to give the car a full and proper safe tune...as opposed to alot of others who just simply wind up the boost and punch in as much timing as possible and turn off the knock/airflow warning and give ya the 350 horsies you wanted and tell you that the knock didnt get any higher then 30. Then after a while you can hear the rat a tat tat coming from the engine when you give it a squirt one warm day....ya check everything...it doesnt add up so you pull the bitch down and BAM! Holy bejesus batman! Where did my ringlands go??

spigot bearing wouldnt affect it...i left my old one in and its all good. They may have adjusted the clutch in someway that your not getting the full stroke outta the pedal inorder to fully disengage the clutch...or your lines may need bleeding if for whatever reason they removed the lines from the slave cylinder. If they did bleed it then they may have missed the intermediate valve thats half way between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, its on that block mounted on the chassis rail. It may only be half bled and once again not letting you get the full travel to fully disengage the clutch. oh yeh also, the spigot bush/bearing supports the end of the input shaft from the gearbox in the ass of the crankshaft. There is a few thoughts for ya to check.

maybe those people have been lucky enough to find a tuner who can get those power figures safely without any knocking problems....ive seen other cars with those sorta power figures and have problems with headgaskets blowing through, or having excessive knock as a result of poor tuning with high CR. In this world nothing is ever certain. But techincally you are correct in that with those power levels a steel headgasket isnt required. I am more so leaning towards the a/m gasket as a safety precation. I think the steel headgasket i got last time was like 300 odd i think...cant remember now sorry. Just offering advice in order to play it on the safer side. Im not trying to argue that your wrong and im right in anyway. I apologise if it was going that way.

I think the sensor may be somesort of speedo sensor, whether its a secondary sensor to work in relation with the gearbox drive or what im not sure. Does anyone have any idea on this maybe? Cheers.