r33_racer

I dont own a GTR and havent really worked on one....but cant you just space the crossmember down? As in a packer to go inbetween the chassis rails and where the crossmember bolts up. Say 10mm worth there and then slot the engine mounts down say 5mm and bam there is your 15mm. Hopefully with clearance still between crossmember and sump/diff housing/driveshaft/cv. So long as you maintain the 10 degree lean that rb's have, it should be fine.

good work mate. it looks great. so are you saying it has a bearing issue on number 1 big end? or it did when it was a rb26?

Im not 100% sure...We ran -16 on both lines. Something to do with the large amount of air/oil being pushed and pulled through the lines. I think so long as the pump supply line is -16 you will be safe as thats the critical one. Make sure you do it with a single line too if possible, eliminate the use of multiple lines and fittings, as they can cause problems.

They are both 11mm bolts/studs. However rb30 sohc head bolts are longer then dohc bolts if memory serves me right. So you need to use the studs/bolts that suit the head.

If your tank is in the boot...I believe you need atleast -16 lines to and from the tank to pump. Anything smaller and it makes it hard for the pump to suck it over that distance. From memory the peterson guide says -12 for upto 3-4 foot anything greater then its -16. Ive never heard of anyone doing what you are suggesting....but you can always be the first to try and find out the results first hand.

Found a pic of what mine looks like. It was the best angle i could get...umm guessing when i first tacked it up lol.

Nice job dave...looks good. The only thing we've done, which has come about from experience is to machine up two discs that bolt through the pump drive pulley with lips that extend about 5mm more then the pulley itself to stop the belt from jumping off. Also helps if the belt is slightly misaligned... We havent noticed any wear on the sides of the belt from running these discs with some light rubbing.

I spaced it out 15mm. Welded w/g outlet to the exhaust housing and bolted it upto that. GT30 lowmount with ext gate now. Works well.

was that head bare? or with full valvetrain or even part valvetrain?

yep! You definitely got the need for speed! I hear if you can fly a plane you can make an engine fit! Its simple maths really... But on a more serious note its looking good mang! You can take me for a drive when its done

Amen to that brother! I am praying...

RB cranks are cross drilled from factory. Both mains and big end journals.

Yeh thats what i thought was the case also with condensation and whatnot...but havent seen or heard of anyone having any dramas with that setup. Especially if oil is changed at correct intervals. Ill be setting my road car up like this once i sort out some new mods(atm no catchcan just lines running to ground). Breather from crankcase inlet side to catchcan, and drain to sump from exhaust side. I have seen this setup before and there appears to have been no dramas with it.

Nothing wrong with returning it back to the sump. It will constantly be doing a loop...no problem.

Never heard of stainless being using in high temp situations...Stainless is usually weaker then mild steel. It just looks pretty and and doesnt rust. In terms of tensile strength...pretty piss weak. A set of new studs should last another 10-15 years like the factory ones did so long as everything is good.

I found a bmw electric steering pump and tank in one unit for sale on some racing bmw parts shop....think it was about $1350 aus. I imagine they could work with anything else if wired up correctly, not just for a bmw...plus the quality looks good. http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/StoreF...ount2=396003365 Seems link didnt work proper.... try this order to find the unit. Navigate: StoreFront / Suspension / Steering / Miscellaneous Performance

Ofcourse nissan can cock up...and they no doubt did with the n1.

Very nice dave. That will surely generate some decent vacuum. With our four stage barnes we see about 8-9 inHg. You will see over 10 surely.

I was only curious as others have said that oil pressure can drop if you open up side clearances too much as it escapes more quickly...But if you had enough flow, such as that provided from any of these aftermarket pumps (especially nitto) it wouldnt really matter as the pump will more then likely outflow what could be lost through these bigger clearances. I thought RB's needed higher oil pressure to help prevent big ends from grabbing due to the cranks being cross drilled, rather then straight shoot like most aftermarket race cranks...the usual centrifugal forces trying to stop oil reaching the big end as crank rpm increases, generally more evident in higher revving RB's.

Paul you notice much drop in oil pressure if you open up conrod side clearances? Or you think the drop would be negligible?

When we ran the GT30, the one discopotato is referring too, there was next to no lag at all...or so it felt...it came on really fast and really hard. With the gt35r it comes on just as hard, but nowhere near as fast....tight parts where you are on and off the throttle its not as good as you would expect.

I think that same thing was mentioned here before....to4z dont seem to lose as much boost as gt35's... I can vouch that even a gt35r when it falls off boost, in tight spots it can be a bit slow to build up again, slower then expected.

+1 for the balancing You seem to have it all covered.

+1 for Barnes! I think the 57% is about the maximum you can go, or so the mechanic from Performance Wholesale informs us, any faster and it starts to cavitate...

Were all the bearings polished and evenly? Or just no1 and no7 and only on the inside half?