r33_racer

you guys havent messed up the cam timing by any chance? Have you tried playing with the exhaust cam timing? Maybe put the belt on a tooth out or something silly?

not a 100% sure, but i think advertised and what they are at .050" are never the same. I believe the standard measurement is always at .050" though. check the cam card though to be certain!

its the gear that cracks not the drive on the crank.

Slow but damn accurate! We had the same issue when I looked at making replacement gears for one of our dry sump pumps that got damaged....however internal radiuses too tight for any cutter in the mill. Needed a wire cutter. Curse the damn machines! Kudos to you greg for having a go at sorting out this issue though. If successful will no doubt help alot of people out!

Depends on expansion rates of crank and drive...if there would be any....but for a damper to crank snout, a .001 thou interference fit is ideal. Internally, the better the fit the more contact area you have and obviously a more even distribution of load on the gear....would be good if someone had a collar and gear to measure so we can see whats what, then go from there.

Gerotor pumps are more efficient in working, but easily damaged from foreign material running through them, whilst gear pumps (saw tooth types) can easily pass crap and not get damaged (too badly)....they are more forgiving and genereally more reliable.

drysump FTW....hoooooray!

oh oh can i say it? lol doing it anyway..... Not a bad way to spend ten grand! lol ahhh gets me everytime hahahaha.

Thanks for the clarification dirtman Good ole debates on oil pumps, always entertaining

slightly off topic, but when people talk balance...to what degree we talking? To a gram, .1 of, or .01 of?

Go for an external pump if possible. Just need to make up a bracket, and a couple of lines and a drive pulley. Going by what youve been saying in the last few threads ive seen, you seem more then capable of doing it all yourself. I dont believe they would be anymore expensive then any of jap pumps....shit our last 4 stage pump was about 1700. What do the jap ones go for these days?

+1 for what duncan said! Plus all the extra space to get to the dry sump pump right underneath it! Also, as 9krpm said, one less belt to worry about. Which in race conditions can come off. It normally creates dramas when its just behind your dry sump pump belt! Clearly this is not for road going cars....

You can run two breathers into catch can. run a line through a one way valve from bottom of catch can into the exhaust with the fitting welded on at a 45 degree angle facing against the flow of the exhaust. Bypassing exhaust creates a vacuum in the line and can and sucks any oil/vapours out always leaving the can empty or near enough. One way valve stop exhaust gasses filling the catch can if for whatever reason it backfires up the line instead of bypassing it. Obviously dont use the factory plastic one. Block off everyother line. Get rid of the pcv line and anyother line that runs into your intake. Only want breathers going into catch can. Dont want any fumes going back into the motor, whether it be manifold or intake of turbo.

Yeh...noticed that...was trying to get on here all fricken day! lol I thought I was blocked or something and was missing out on all the fun.

Yep, its threaded

You need a double threaded fitting to replace the one with the push over o ring setup which allows the use of the oil cooler block. Rb30 has this double threaded fitting...

If the machine shop is good and you trust them, you wont need to plastigauge or mic up the clearances. Should be just a matter of assembling the motor. Though it would be good practice to double check everything. Im pretty sure the nissan workshop manual explains basically how to check it all???

We struggle to get the oil in our car to higher then 70 degrees on the circuit.... Cant get water temp higher then 80 degrees. The only time it gets upto a good operating temp is when we come into the pits and the heatsoak starts bringing everything upto where i want it....Those temps are about 10-15 degrees higher in summer....everytoher time of the year its like the mentioned figures or worse...especially in winter. Last sat practice session, i couldnt get oil or water temp to get off the bottom of the gauge. What do you guys classify as not getting hot? or what do most tuners classify as not getting hot?

from factory they would be matched up to their respective blocks yes...as in from factory they would be align bored for correct clearances, if they dont match up, more then likely it is from a different block.

mark the back of the dotted teeth and line up the back of the tooth with the dash on the backplate. Helps to get it bang on rather then eyeing off from the front.

Hmmm are rb26 mainstuds ARP2000 instead of 8740 chromemoly? Or can you get both? I know the 12mm headstuds for rb26's are ARP2000, but I was under the impression all the 10mm mainstuds were all normal 8740...same as 25 and 30's.

The cp ring pack normally comes with or has on it the ring order. The booklet should have the end gaps for whatever application your using the engine for...from memory end gap for those would be 6 thou per inch of bore diameter top ring and 5 thou per inch of bore diameter for 2nd ring. But check the piston/ring guide that would have come with....maybe your machine shop kept it if you dont have it???? or someone else might know for sure and can correct me. ARP torque for mains from memory is 53ft/lbs???(with their moly lube)...remember to do it three times(overall process) in about three increments(as Duncan stated) to make sure you stretch the threads correctly....I do believe you can do it twice, and on the third time it should be good. If the bock hasnt been line bored, you should check what your clearances are with internal mics when your girdle is torqued down to that ft/lb. Id also check what crush you get to be safe. Also it sounds like the machine shop put the longer studs in the right place....look at the girdle and its quite evident where they go. For the frost plugs or welsch plugs...id just get a new set from repco or wherever. They are cheap. If they are eroded as you say in some spots they may leak prematurely...If you dont want too, slap on a good amount of stag when you fit them Not an expert on heads/valve train, but I dont see why you couldnt run such a spring.

The more you change the project up, the further your completion date is going to blow out. One thing i learnt about projects is to have a set date and build spec and perfect it before you start and then follow it to the dot. But as we all know, it rarely goes that way....especially with racing cars/modifications. But its all fun though and no doubt a good learning curve or two will come about from it all.

That must be the difference between a gtr and gtst then. Eitherway I would check that the piston is at TDC when the cams are aligned with the markings on the back camshaft timing cover. Even if you just do it the old fashion way with a screw driver down the sparkplug hole...

If your keyway isnt dead at 12 o'clock, chances are no1 piston is NOT at TDC. Check it with a dial indicator to make sure it is, otherwise your timing will be off. Also as I stated on the other page and as Daniel stated, im pretty sure on r33's the second dash is 0, first line is -5. Im pretty sure that explains why the second line on my balancer is orange and the others are white.