r33_racer

throw him in the boot....haha thats all he deserves anyway

anyone going out to the drifting on the weekend at qr?

from memory i think the torque is 100ft/lbs for headstuds. and i dont recall there ever being any problems with stud length in the head. Only problems with studs for the mains for the three long ones which you need to use some out of a different motor vg30 or something which you use two washers on. Hopefully im pretty close to being accurate, if not surely someone else will clear it up.

In the last motor we ran two 1mm restrictors, no lifter noise or rattle at all. However because of the dry sump setup obviously we dont have to worry about too much oil in the head problem.

if you run a greddy plenum it will open up the top end and it shouldnt nose over...probably need a good exhaust manifold too (6boost). Our gt30 .82 rear went to 320rwkws without water injection and it pulled all the way to 8k redline. Remove all possible restrictions in the bolt ons and you can run the smaller puffers further to the edge without losing power.

look around ive posted the dyno graph here before. Probably both...before WI it was 320rwkws...after was 370rwkws. Imagine a nice 45 degree looking line pulling all the way to redline. Al just do a search for me or something its either in here or in the rb30 thread. Actually it will be in the rb30 power thread.

you cant beat SK's bilstein package.

dan was right what he said sat night about that surge tank shane. You said it was 'mint' if i recall correctly.

bought our collar for like 200(jun) and it was fitted for another 80bux.

shit mate...thats really testing the memory. I think somewhere in the vacinity of 6-8mm. I believe if you use an sr20 power steering pump you can just run it off the aircon line. However the ratio would be all messed up. I dont know about the a/c line as ive never used it with that balancer, our dry sump pump runs where it normally goes. Actually everyone i know who runs one of the ati dampners doesnt run a/c so i cant even ask.

sounds like a great idea...i will be there for sure.

yep...top quality work there shane....lol.

rb25 power steering needs shimming forward for the belt to line up properly.

ill show you jealous shane...your coming round tomorrow arvo for bbq yeh? bring ya guns mate...its on like donkey kong!

ive seen it and put our old old times in there...but im so slack to update it all. One day ill get around to it.

joel not everyone drives/races a gtr....only blokes with no skill require four wheel drive. Real men drive gtst's! the slight response difference between the twins or single isnt that big of a deal in most cases...maybe if your racing for sheep stations. In almost every circumstance you can offset it with something else that will make your car quicker around the track or on the street. As is the problem with most people is the cost involved in it all. Twin setups will always cost more then single. VHR32 - ive raced with a .82 rear gt35r and i think a 1.06 rear would be better for control, but the lag side of things would outweigh the benefit of the control. I would rather then extra response from the .82 and control the power better with my foot, not only that but having a disadvantaged mechanical setup teaches you to be a better racer as it forces you to adapt rather then just relying on a more superior setup to improve your times/position.

the threaded sleeve just slips down to the circlip and sits on it and thats it...the other bases and seats just go over all that. Very simple.

BIG SINGLE FTW. only cause thats what i run. Just run water injection pre turbo.....hot side! ie. into the runners. Reduce lag and increase spool. I believe cubes is right in what hes saying though. however twins equal messy...more pipes...lines....exhausts...intakes...manifolds.

haha yeh...go the cheapest one out of the two that should last you the shortest amount of time. Make sure you use any crappy oil lines they provide also, thats a must. All seriousness you should be going for a gt30 with .63 rear. That would be my choice if i was to be going racing, if you get the cheap stuff your only asking for trouble.

black....not only does it look tough and stands out...it gives best heat dissipation....alot of truck intercoolers are black for that reason.

how much was spent? I believe its gotten so high now that we dont keep track.......if you dont think about it, you cant lose sleep over it. House in the country.....i was thinking more along the lines of a nice apartment in the city Does yours go simon? Ours goes when its not bogged down with problems.

thats about as accurate as it gets...excellent sum up.

the turbo probably will be...but you will look forward to more power downlow and probably almost everywhere depending on what manifolds your running. Only thing that might get restricted is the top end, but that could change based on whatever other bolt ons your running.

last time i checked when pretty well anyone rebuilds a motor with oversize pistons which is normally only 20 thou oversize or .5mm thats generally all that gets taken off unless the bore has ovaled so much it needs more then 20 thou. I seriously doubt anyone goes sleeves for first oversize piston when rebuilding. You said it as if its required for rebuilding, which it isnt.

guess a greddy would be perfect for you then. Your talking from a drag racers point and im from a circuit racers point....so yeh. Differing opinions based on application.