B0oStEr

It does actually bypass one safeguard. The power to the factory relay is switched by ignition so even if the relay fails and locks on the pump will only run when the ignition is on. With this mod if the relay locks on the pump will run regardless of whether the ignition is on or off.

I'm starting the kickpanels and need some inspiration. Has anyone on here put midrange and tweeters in the kickpanels of a 32 before?

I started this ages ago but only decided to finish it off last week. I didn't forget the sound deadening Now I've got to make kickpanel pods for the mids and tweeters. I'll put pics up when they're done.

Nearly everything you need to know is in my old post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ra#entry2544346

There's an optional muffler on some r33s that opens the second pipe under load. It should be easy to tell if stageas have this because there is a motor in the boot and a cable to the muffler that operates it.

It's definately easier if you remove the exhaust. Apart from the exhaust being out of the way it allows the motor to drop at the back and that gives you more room to wriggle the box into position.

I seriously doubt having a box rebuilt to series 3 spec would be cheaper than a brand new series 3 and even if it cost a bit less it wouldn't be worth the saving because the reco box is still 50% an 18 year old box.

The parts I've priced for a basic freshen up assuming no parts are broken is over $1000 so $850 including labour for a full rebuild sounds too good to be true. What is wrong with your box that it needs rebuilding? It might be a good idea to make sure you know what parts are to be replaced and ask for all the old parts back.

R33 rb25de uses basically the same box as the r32 gtst.

I looked in my manual. I can't see a code that would disable the central locking. What work did you have done to the car? Maybe they didn't reconnect an earth wire from the alarm.

I've searched and this seems a popular topic but there is very little info on where to actually source parts. Ok bearings are easy to find and you can get the synchros genuine. I rang Nissan and a set of synchros would cost $613. They said there appeared to be 2 rings needed for 5th gear so six rings in total. Interestingly the part numbers are the same as '95 V6 navara 2wd synchros. I rang a bearing supply place and they quoted me about $200 for the basic bearings seals and gaskets or just over $400 for a full bearing/seal kit with all the needle rollers etc. They said they might be able to supply synchros but wanted my vin no. which I couldn't give them as my car is an r32. I bought my r33 box 2nd hand and don't know what year model it came from but it has a push clutch. Are there differences in g/box parts between different years ecr33? Could someone please post legit vin no. for each year '93 - '97 manual ecr33 so I can compare the synchro part nos. I'm waiting on a email reply from a company in the us advertising rebuild kits for the FS5R30A gearbox which is the same number box as the r33 turbo, 300zx, 2wd navara and gtr box in 4wd form. Has anyone here found the synchros etc cheaper than buying from nissan?

Are you going to hook up the neutral switch? It is needed if you still have hicas and possibly affects some other systems. Here is my reply from 2005 to a similar Q about reverse lights in auto > manual conversion Both switches are on the drivers side of the box and look the same. The rear one is the neutral switch and the front one is reverse. I posted a thread on how to wire these. Of the wires that went to the auto box the green wire and the thinner of the two black wires are for the reverse switch and the white and the same black wire are for the neutral switch. They all plug into the cluster of connectors mounted on the side of the fusebox under the bonnet. Just make sure the right wires are hooked up to the right switch. Also found this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ing-t91245.html Sorry I couldn't find my earlier thread that comprehensively covered this.

I'm running an rb25 turbo g/box in my r32 gtst. I'm using the stock r32 manual 2 piece driveshaft with a stock r33 turbo front yoke fitted using a hardie spicer replaceable unijoint. It should have been 10mm longer but is plenty long enough.

Does anyone on here own an Autech 4 door R32 gtr? The importer I bought my gtst from told me he was bringing one in then I'm pretty sure I saw one driving down Redlandbay Road but it was gone before I could get a proper look at it.

I had a bit of time on my hands this week. I swapped my r32 gtst pump over to a r32 gtr pump and decided to do the wiring upgrade. After reading this thread through I used the schematic from the thread and traced all the fuel system wires in the car with a multi meter and found the fuel pump control modulator and factory relay in the boot. I also located the dropping resistor for the low speed in the enginebay. This process has shown me how the system works but there is one thing about the system I still don't understand. The black/yellow wire that is the power from the factory relay to the fuel pump and also supplies power to the fpcm but then for some reason runs back into the loom toward the front of the car. The schematic doesn't show this. What does it do? Has anyone got an actual wiring diagram?

Yeah the front windscreen has an antenna also. The system is called dual diversity or something similar. Possibly one antenna for am the other for fm? I found the antenna amp. on a schematic wiring diagram but it didn't say where it is located.

If one of the wires goes to a terminal on the rear windscreen it might be the antenna amp because the rear antenna is in the rear window glass with the demister filaments.

It's definitely not part of the fuel system because I'm currently rewiring my fuel pump and I've traced out every wire and component from a schematic diagram. The fuel pump control module is in the same spot on the driver's side and the ballast resistor is in the engine bay. Does anyone know where the antenna amplifier is?

That's interesting. If that is the case I can bin it because the factory stereo is long gone. I just want to be sure though. One of the 4 wires to this box appears to be shielded like a signal wire. There is an antenna in the back windscreen. I think the connector for it is on the passenger's side. I know the antenna uses an amplifier but I don't know where it is in the car but it would make sense if it was near the antenna.

Could it be a voltage regulator for the demister?

I reshot the photos in low res. They upload ok now file size is 700KB. It says maximum single upload size is 2MB so why won't it accept 1.4MB?

The box is held in by the two screws in the boot pic and the wires go to the top plug on the box.

I can't upload pics atm I click browse and double click 1.4MB jpeg image from 'my pictures'. File name appears in upload window, click upload, appears to be loading but shows 0 in manage attachments when finished. 'There are no items currently'. It has always worked for me before. What am I doing wrong?

It won't be a motor for an antenna because they are in the front and rear windscreens. I can't see why a rear window demister would need a motor or a computer. I'll try to get pics up soon.

This box is located in the guard cavity on the passenger's side of the boot. It has two plugs each with two wires. I thought it might be the amplifier for the diversity antenna but the wires to the top plug are heavy by factory standards which suggests to me the box might draw more current than an antenna amp would need.