predator

I drove past today.. appeared to be all open and operating as normal. we are talking about the same Aresspeed? On Ferry Rd, Southport?? Is there another in Brisbane you have been dealing with?

If the company has been liquidated.. I don't like your chances.. I will go past a bit later today, and see if I can grab a phone number off the door or anything, if they have a "aeres speed have closed, any enquiries please contact..." on there. Again, don't like the chances, but we'll see. Will let you know how I go.

you guys are all idiots.. the original thread poster has pissed off long ago and do you see any replies in here at all from her since about 3 months ago?? this thread should be locked and/or deleted..

Its 5 mins away.. I could drive past I guess.. they often look closed though.

16mm was just just fit.. I had to bend the doorskin over in, and only because the corner toggle was really strong did it lock in.. The main screws along the bottom and along the corner of the door really are what holds it in. It could possibly damage the door trims long term due to them being slightly stretched over.. but I am not that fussed. I wouldn't use 16mm probably again, but it worked for me. You don't want too thin or the mdf may wobble under vibrations, which is bad for the audio quality.

Are you a black woman HCSC ? I have a certain fantasy that needs to be acted out, if you you are willing that is... :aroused:

The speakers I used were Focal 165A Splits.. 6.5" and yup.. perfect fit, and great sound in the R32

I can't see how a 5 year old or so R34 has coilpack problems.. when my 15 year car doesn't have any sort of problem with its original coilpacks. Doubt its coilpacks. Have you even reset the ECU to retune itself to australian fuel?

That is 140mm across in diameter = 5.5" - that is the inner diameter for the speaker to fit through.. but the outer edge is actually 6.5" (165mm).. Like I was saying, one manufacturers '6.5 inch' can be different to another's '6.5 inch', so it may vary. You are probably best off to measure the diameter of your speakers (or go off the charts in the manual or box) before you cut out the center piece.

I think its the growing trend / sadness in the import scene.. people who want everything without having to pay what they are worth. Things have changed, and I think there are a lot more tight ass kids around with imports who think that they can upgrade the car for next to nix. I see it time and time again, people have no idea. Maybe there are some that get things for the "but my mate bought one for half that the other week" type prices, but they are few and far between. And I sure as hell don't see some of the types of prices being offered on the forums anyhow, if that is an overall snapshot of the wider trading area. I'm with you Bass.. it pisses me off seeing others getting their time wasted too. Sure you can have the attitude "if it doesn't effect you who cares", but if you have that attitude then no wonder the whole world is ****ed..

just for future ref.. in case you don't know.. cold water into hot engine + keep driving, can mean death to the engine... even if it was something else in the first place. The car really should be at near cold temperature to add cold water back into the system. Otherwise you are adding cold water to a hot system, which of course can crack the head on its own.

This is mainly for roy and blck32, but others may find it useful. Here are pix.. hope u follow. The bottom of the bracket on the bottom of the radiator support, I undid, and shoved up, whilst putting the bolt back in. So the bracket basically sitting on top of the bolt.The washer on the bolt wedges it into place and is a very solid fit. Spacers/washers basically fit behind the top radiator support there.. allowing the bracket to be moved back about 1cm from the support. Those bolts were a bit big, but all I had sitting around that would suit at the moment. I had to remove that centre bolt and just left it like that. Its not massively important to the rigidity.. but you may wish to redrill, and the refit bolt if you like. finished result.. p.s. don't whinge at me for putting on a GTR bonnet! my gts-t one came from japan badly faded and with a dodgy chip in there, and dented.. to fix would require new GTS bonnet (~$300) + painting ($300) = $600.. I only paid about $100 more to get an aluminium bonnet, in my car colour, that should provide a bit better airflow to the engine/radiator at the same time. The fact that it happens to be a GTR one that is what it is..

see thread in general skyline discussion..

University Queensland.. St Lucia..

sex on wheels

Was an R31 by the looks of things. Whats 12km/hr over these days in VIC ? $250 and 3 points? To lose you life over? so minor.. pretty mixed up... drugs or some issue was probably involved. You just don't even entertain that thought unless you are seriously disturbed in the first place. Just mixed up all round, and two lives gone.

what happens to all those ones that have run out of rego.. and just sit there till they're bought by an aussie and imported?

u will have to cut stock support and bar to fit 600x300x76 cooler.. otherwise go for GTR one.

I cbf with CF.. get defected.. screwed up here as they are not legal.. and its not something that you can "hide". Have to fit stock bonnet back on again (means having bulky stock bonnet in garage all the time, etc).. I've wondered whether the extra airspace for airflow to get in.. would make any difference to radiator and engine temperature.. i would imagine it would make a bit of a difference p.s. roy.. u don't need a GTR latch to fit GTR bonnet.. as i found at this morning

I did it earlier today.. no new latch required.. basically it involves just unscrewing all the bolts and moving things around a bit.. For the main bracket the latch attaches to (it bolts to radiator support with 2x bolts).. you will need some spacers/washers behind and before where it screws into the support.. to pull it back a bit.. then some longer bolts. Basically you want to move it back 1cm or so. Then you will need to push it "up" by undoing the bottom bolt and pushing the whole lot up. Then reattaching the bolt so that the bracket is sitting on the top of that bolt. You may have to play with a couple of the latch bolts, and it has some movement built in, so get it in the right place then tighten. There is probably different ways to work it, but mine latches very nicely now.

With the price of 17" LCD screens down to the $300 mark for a good quality one.. you would think a 7" would be $100 by now Pity they're not quite down to that level. Most import dealers can sell HICAS compatible kits, for much less than most of the big name supercheap, autobarns, etc

$1500? .. minor damage, almost just minor scrapes rather than any damage (from photos).. new front bar.. new guard (probably not even) and spray of those parts. Any more than $1500 MAX would be criminal.. I got the whole side of my old car sprayed (pro job.. barely visible) for $800

good stuff..

I think that is the idea.. i think he is trying to beat some knob with the car below..

Just for interest.. here are pix of my install..