Artwear

Is it a fairly harsh cut out? i experienced boost cut when i put the high flo turbo on and an aftermarket bov, i think that because the new bov didnt have the factory bleed allowance it created a higher boost level under hard acceleration...... then id just about head butt the windscreen when it cut, that was in second gear too.

So after driving the car in decent rain for the first time since this issue as popped up, after drive for about 10-15 minuets without issue, i attempted to pull into my driveway for work and the day died, just a very quick loss of power and then nothing. Turned it off and back on an the idle was rough and really low, on the brink of stalling. That lasted for about 30 seconds, then i fired back up to normal and off it went. I drove a few hundred meters and then started to break, and the rough idle happened again. Im assuming that the breaking motion is sending water towards the nose of the car, and that is somehow either messing with the current issue, or creating a new one all together. Also, theres no bung below the battery, so any water in there should be draining away but with the battery shroud on it cant see.

i probably will end up replacing the yaw sensor as well as it has seemed to solve a few peoples issues, though from what i had read on here, they were all involving the 4WD system to some extent, which mine seems to be happy with at the moment. But it does appear to be a cheapish fix if that is the problem.

M35 Electrical gremlin Hey guys, I have quizzed a few of the facbook users in the M35 tuners group about this issue, but thought it might also be a good idea to see if anyone on here has any ideas that havent been thought of yet. For the better part of six weeks now, i have an issue with the car whenever it sits unoccupied in the sun (like carparks when shopping, or in full sun at work). The car shows on the dash firstly the AT light, and also drops out the speedo and gear selection on the dash. Then once the ABS decided s to do it little venting test on start up, it seems to hold the "vent" open for about 20-30 seconds, the the light stays on. I have been in a few positions when i have had to move the car with the issue present, and without jumping on the breaks, there dosn't appear to be any major noticeable issue with the breaking, but the trans is clearly unhappy. It slams pretty hard from N to D and it holds the gears a lot longer then it normally would. Then, once the windows are down and the cabin of the car cools down, slowly the AT will go back to normal then shortly after the ABS light will switch off. Also, to test the theory, i had parked the car in full sun yesterday (about 30 degrees) and cranked it over at about 4pm, sure enough the issue occurred. i then moved the car to the shade, left it with windows down for an hour, then fired it up again, no issues present. I had read on here that a faulty atessa ecu had caused ABS issues in the past, but there was no mention of faulty gauges with that. And also from what i have been told, the gauges are controlled by the iPDM, but that should not have any temp change in cabin as next to the battery. I have a new iPDM, BCM & ABS ecu coming from Josh, and will try those but does anyone else have any thoughts or had similar issues?

If need be mate, im a sign writter/ graphic designer so if u cant get hold of anything specific just hit me up mate.

M35 Axis guards Hey lads, I have had a look through the forum for some specific info on what has/can be done with flaring the guards on the M35 axis? Given that the axis have the molded body kit has anyone cut out the base and rolled or removed a section of the guards to allow more clearance on wider tires?

5/7

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times? The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

As above. And the m35 exhaust is restrictive as hell, so dump and cat work helps. Also depending on ks, watch the stock turbo, they tend to starve n cook, so a highflo helped me. They tend to run hot, so any additional cooling cant hurt longevity. Also, have money,if no one mentioned that before u got one, start saving. They're a unique lux cruiser that are hard to fault after some coin. At least thats been my experience

Speak of the devil! Haha. Can an aftet market tune adjust for the aftermarket bov? I assumed that the correct way to get around it.

Yeah i rekon from what scotty has said, the stock acts differently to a standard bov, like a pre built "leak" to adjust factory boost levels

Yeah, made little difference for me, though i do have an intake or air flow issue aswell. Its easy enough to do so it cant hurt to try. I ended up reverting back to stock for now.

Hey mate, i dont have a solution, but i did have the same issue, also did it under load up hill at lower speed on gear change. Another thing i found was with the bov and hi flow i had the engine cut out at max revs in 2nd, watch out for it, ull.head butt the windscreen! Happy hunting mate, im keen to see if theres a solution!

Forgot to mention, I had the AFM replaced at the same time as well Honestly didn't realise that K&Ns were an issue, for all the poking around ive done on here id not seen it mentioned. Have noticed that at full tilt in 1st & 2nd, the last 3 - 400 rpm before redline, it drops off and then theres a slight backfire when it clicks into the next gear. It seems more noticeable now that the bov makes more noise too.

Finally got the Turbosmart Kompact BOV fitted, got a K & N panel and replaced the hid bulbs, which one has already failed, Yay for ebay!

Work, what are the odds that there are two people both with silver AXIS with matte black rims!

Just had this exact trans issue on my travels over the weekend. Warm weather and a few hills and she threw a hissy fit! Trans cooler is high on the to do list now!

Nah sorry mate no pics, also, i have the stock rear pipe & muffler on atm. Last thing i needed was the missus sitting in the car next to me for 3 day asking why i spent 4k to make the car "noisier" When i get back ill have it refitted, that way i can go the straight pipe or mid muffler or whatever suits me. Ill take some happy snaps then too!

Hey mate, still got that BOV?

Finally have the car back! -New front bearings -New front break rotors -New whiteline rear sway bar linkages -Hypergear High Flow (G1 i believe) -Scotty Dump & Front pipe -3.5" rear pipe(thanks again Scotty!) -New smile, connecting left ear to right ear (-Potentially new missus when she realises exactly how much i have spent and why we are no longer renovation the house over xmas!) Huge thanks to R&D Mechanical for doing all the work too!

Hey guys. The stag was starting to show signs of the turbo failing so i have entrusted R&D to pull it apart, Hypergear should be doing the Hiflow & Scotty the new pipes. The trans will most likely be next but i would also like to start getting an idea on ECU options for retuning. Ideally id like somthing that can be riged up to a tablet in the pop up screen section as the screen is still jap and gets no love. Was also curious if there is anything around that will let you have 2 different tune setups, one for daily economy and one for power. As always, any info is greatly appreciated!

So its more of a case of pecentage of power Vs breaking effect? If theres a constant percentage of drive being sent to the front and you stand on the break and accelerator, is it just the fact that theres less power and larger breaks up front that allow the rears to turn?

Is there a link to a detailed thread on the attessa system in the nm35s? My thinking was its pretty much rwd untill the system senses traction being lost and activates the fwd. After reading about the rpm diffrence between the break sensor mod while on the stop and go pedals, i wanted to check. Sure enough sat on about 2500rpm as suggested. Though i did notice small tyre witness marks on the driveway, so tried again the next day with the "Sync" switched on and held it a little longer to be sure, again twin marks. I would have though the attessa would have not allowed that to happen? Also, i have taken off quckly on loose gravel had had the back spin and step out slightly. So any more info on the attessa side of things (other then wikkipedia) would be greatly appreciated.

Are there any pin holes under the badges other then the Nissan? Id like to remove the AXIS & Autech bagde if possible.

Unfortunately the stag is my only means of transport so having it off the road for a long period of time isnt really a viable option, and no, me and tools dont have a very good relationship. Appreciate the offer. Thats why i was after some local knowledge, so i can drop off and pick up same day if possible. As far as the kits go, am i best to order through yourself Jetwreck or find a local supplier?