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HCR32

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Everything posted by HCR32

  1. Hey mate, any pics of the GT wing?
  2. 1. BOVs dont give you more power what so ever. 2. any after market BOV is illegal.
  3. Guys Quick question, have any of you guys noticed the temp gauge on the car, if it has gone up or gone down, after you have fitted the FMIC.. i was going to put a plate cover over the top of the cooler to direct the air to the radiator after the cooler so the air doesnt escape...
  4. Remember guys, if your boots are ripped, get them replaced asap, if sh|t gets in your steering rack it will get buckled and you will be up for a new rack. didnt take me long to do both boots, bought the boots at 9am finished the job before 12pm with some bludging in between hehe
  5. interested in the sony 12" subs how long have you had them for? do you know the RMS power rating? and like GOR33 asked, where in syd are ya!?
  6. yeh thanks for that, i know what your talking about... i could fit it bit higher up or like you said make a cold air intake for it.
  7. Hey Scott funny you mentioned that, i will be fitting my intercooler this weekend (if i manage to get all the piping). I have the type m front bar and have a 600x300x76 cooler arriving this week. Keep a look out next week in the DIY thread for my posts. I know i will have to cut abit of the bar out at the bottom and yeh it does look like a tight fit but i think i can manage. Also what i plan to do is re-allocate my air filter to where the existing small stock intercooler is after i have removed it. Should be sweet.
  8. How long does it take to get to this ferry place? doing the legal limit ofcourse
  9. lol aye what did i tell you before, i wont let you get those w*nka plates i think you just made a d|ck of your self infront of everyone
  10. thanks man, yeh genuine parts from nissan are $$ i saved heaps of money by getting it from repco and doing it my self.
  11. Ok, so we all have skylines which are 10+ years old...one thing on the car is bound to let go or rip apart are the steering rack boots. Constantly stretching in and out when we turn while we drive...its bound to happen sooner or later... I will show you how i replaced mine (left hand side boot was torn) so you can change yours in the near future. Its important you change the boots if you find a rip or tear other wise all sorts of crap end up in ur steering arm and if it gets real bad, you will be up for a new steering rack which is $$$!!! Sorry about the photos, there not clear as they were taking by my phone... I bought the boots from repco which cost me $13.50 each. The part number is RRB033. Next you need to raise the car on the jack and take off the front wheels and you should have something that looks like this. You can see in this pic, my boot torn in two peices. Here is a closer look..not good at all..hehe These are the parts which need to be undone in order for us to take off the old boot. 1. Nut which has to be screwed clockwise 2. Dont know what this is called, i'll call it the End Arm, will need to be screwed Anti-clockwise 3. Pin, has to be straightened and pulled out 4. End arm Nut, which has to be undone so the End Arm will pop out below. First i took out the pin(3) and unscrewed the End Arm Nut(4) Followed by the Nut(1) When you are unscrewing the End Arm make sure you count or mark how far up the thread you are or else when you put everything back together your front alighment will be out of wack, of course after you do all this you will need a front wheel alignment. I counted how many rotations it took to take mine off, which was about 19 turns (this is on my car, every car will be different). Once you have done all that you will have this below, you can slide the old boot right off. If your steering arm has specs of dirt, try and clean it with a clean rag then apply some grease. My steering arm wasnt dirty so i left it as is. The pic below you can see i slid on the new boot. Once the boot is on, get 2 cable ties and tie down the ends of the boot. Thats basically it. Screw the Nut(1) back on then the End Arm(2) making sure you only go as far up the thread as marked or for me 19 revolutions. Then pop the End arm back into place behind the disc, Screw on the End Arm Nut(4) then insert the pin(1) Before you put the tyre back on, turn the steering wheel and make sure the boot comes in and out nicely. Last but not least, front wheel alignment. Even tho you might have the tyres facing straight the alignment will be off. This costs about 20~40 bucks Thanks Barny
  12. come on man we need more 32s!!!!! im in. :bananaman:
  13. haha because he knows which one is important!!!! go the skylines then the girlfriends/wives/mystresses etc etc
  14. mind you spacers are illegal, in sydney.. not to sure about melb tho prob the same so i'd stick to the nissan grinding idea..
  15. Mark, Yeh sorry man i only mean the pads...if your going to change the front rotors, its easy all you have to do is take off the calippers and the rotors will come off... i didnt check the rear rotors but they were bolted down... Barny
  16. yeh in the r32 range, mines a mspec, twin piston front calipers and sunroof aswell? not sure on the sun roof but mines got the above..
  17. lol wilch man i tried but i was too close....dont worry in this pic she looks like shes giving a brown eye
  18. aye john, this ones for you haha sorry my other pics came out dark and sh|t
  19. Ok as topic says, i just replaced my front and rear brake pads, wasnt hard at all. Below i got step by step procedure on how to change the pads for those of you who want to save some money and learn something. 1. Get your self an R32 gtst skyline 2. Did the rear brake pads first so make sure you put bricks or a heavy object infront of the front tyres so it doesnt move forward while you raise the car on the jack and proceed to take off the wheels. Once the wheels are off you should see Ok, There are basically two ways you can change the pads. One, you can take off the whole caliper by undoing two bolts at the back OR Two(easier), leave the caliper on. I'll show you both ways, first way we will take it off. 3. Undo the two nuts behind the caliper with a size 17 socket. The second bolt you cant see in the pic, its just underneath. One both have been undone the whole caliper should come off. Now the parts we are going to take apart are labeled 1.Bent pin 2.Long pins and 3.X Plate 4. Now carefully pull the bent pin out, very easy but careful not to bend it. Once you have done that, you can pull the two long pins down and they should come out easy. Just be careful when your taking out the long pins because the X plate might spring up and go flying some where After you have done the last step the pads should easily come out. If your worried about the piston coming out of the caliper dont worry, unless some one jumps in the car and pushes the brake pedal in. 5. Take the back metal plate off the old pads and put them on your new rear pads Ok when i got to this stage, i needed to push the pistons in the caliper back and it cant be pushed back by your thumb...i tried and it didnt work hehe...with limited tools my macgyver in my came out and i thought of this idea. I bolted the caliper back to its original location, then using a big philips head screw driver i pushed the head of the piston back with the help of the disc Ok you know how i told you earlier theres an even easier way to replace the pads, here it is. Once you have moved the pistons on both sides of the caliper back, the new pads should just slide right in, so yes...there was no need to take off the caliper to begin with BUT i didnt know and i found out after i changed the rear right brake 6. Line up the pads with the holes and insert one of the long pins to hold the pads in place. Next get the X Plate and place it back, please see below pic how 1 of the legs is behind the pin, push the other leg of the X back while you insert the second pin. 7. Once both long pins are in, grab the bent pin and feed each side into the top pins like how it was in the begining and thats replaces the rear pads. With the front pads it is exactly the same thing tho i had four pistons to push back rather than two because my R32 is the type M modem with bigger front brakes. 1.the long pins 2.X Plate and 3.Bent Spring Now after you have done all your brakes, go read Brake Pads - Bedding In Instructions - by GenesisR32 thanks -Barny
  20. i just finished fitting new front and rear brakes to the 32 and did a radiator flush 4 times over. i just saw, when i was under the car a ripped left steering rubber boot, have to get that changed asap, must have been from last night because it wasnt ripped before.
  21. i nearly kissed hello to the last 25km bend, i locked up the fronts and it was sliding right into the railing then i let go of the brakes and it gripped hard and turned...i would have had max 2-3 meters before i hit the railing....the skyline god was on my side last night..haha and umm yeh the two cars behind me kinda did the same so if any of you fellas heard big brakes screeches it was us...
  22. haha hey moans, hurry up and organise another one some where, during the day...i couldnt see who was who last night when we all parked and got out.. for those of you who didnt know who i was...im barny...abit of a loud mouth that called everyone over for the group photo.
  23. yeh that was my first cruise with the boys/girls.. had a good time apart from nearly taking out the railing on the last bend.... meet afew of the people on here aswell...i'll see you all on the next cruise! Guys post of some of those photos that were taken, especially the big group photo at kirawee!
  24. i'll be at homebush at about 9 keep an eye out for 1 r32 with three boats, whoops i mean 3 r33s lol hey moans where around p6 will you be?
  25. lol your a nut, so i'll seeya at homebush tonight !
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