SECURITY

1) to make it easier for yourself, take the turbo off. or at least take every line going to the turbo except the water feed off. 2) yeah, you actually took too much off. mine came off with the entire plenum. getting that front bolt off was a bitch. i had a sidchrome set with skinny heads around the spanners. they were the spanners with the recessed heads. you might be able to get a 10mm socket on it with a swivel. p.s. i see you took my advice about the cams

thats a good point. you'll probably get away with it when pulling the head off, but when putting it back on you'll need a shorter hex bit so you dont lose torque by the bit twisting. i had the cams in when i put the head back on, but our bit was too long and i could see it twist before we hit the proper torque. i ended up taking the cams out so i could use a shorter bit so i wouldnt lose any torque.

you'll just be adding more weight for no reason mate. i think the v8's join in the middle (manifold on each side of the V setup) then split in the end (someone correct me if im wrong). but our straight 6's have the manifold on 1 side so you wont really gain anything (but weight) from doing this. plus the other side of the rear where you'd be running the extra muffler doesnt have that recess to fit it, so it'll be hanging pretty low.

you can get away with leaving the cams in to get to the studs, but storing the head is another issue. with the cams in place you may bend a valve when putting it down or storing it. its a hell of a lot safer and a little bit of extra work for something that can cost you hundreds if something goes wrong. the 3x10mm auxiliary bolts can be accessed with an extension with a swivel or a ball joint on the end. make sure you have a magnet though.

hey can i get my username changed from SECUR1TY with a 1, to SECURITY.

the caps are marked with an I for inlet and an E for exhaust and are numbered so dont worry about them being in order. besides the head studs holding the head in, there are 3x10mm auxiliary bolts holding it in. there are two on the rear of the head on either side, and there is one just ontop of the water pump (from memory). the cams will need to come out. there are a whole bunch of hoses and brackets that need to be removed from under the plenum too. if you're removing your lifters as well, get some liquid paper and mark them the same way the caps are marked so you know which one goes where.

consult cable and ecu SOLD

havent you seen the nitrous scooter? its doable. theres also nothing wrong with what they said. even did research and found out about drag-tag.

oh!! well then you're a lucky man, i wasnt paying attention. i thought it was yours. then its noisy injectors mate. also as a general tip, overfill your oil by around 500ml. T04GTR was running 300ish kw on the standard bottom end and thats all he does. no spun bearings for him.

sorry mate, i edited my post because i actually watched the vid. sorry.

its weird. almost sounds like your fan is hitting something.

it actually does sound like a spun bearing to me.

without looking at it, im going to say that its power steering fluid leaking onto your belts and flinging it around. i cant think of any way else where it would end up there.

you should do a full service after importing. get a fresh batch of oil through it, a new fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and plugs. report back if you still have the problem after doing this.

you can get a stethoscope and put it to your block then put it to the head and see where its louder. alternatively, get under the car and get someone to hit the accelerator and see if you can hear it more under the car, or from the top. bottom = bearings, head = lifters. worn lifters will make almost the same kind of rattle but isnt something that will need attending to for a while. bearings are pretty loud/noticeable, lifters are quieter. both increase as you rev.

wow never heard of them before

nismo gold plated key for ~$80. mitre 10 key cutting. works great looks sexy as hell and ive got around 2 spares in my desk draw incase.

my brother did a traffic offenders course as part of his behaviour bond. it has completely changed the way he sees driving. i think they should incorporate that into schools or at least pass it down as a penalty for people who get suspended.

yeah dude, a melted piston is nasty as hell. look at the pic on my avatar. that was after a nasty little boost spike at WSID. i ran a 14.0 on that run though. ive got some rb25 pistons here if you're after some.

all pm's replied. consult cable added to the list.

its going to be a bitch to take the piston out from underneath unless you take the gearbox off, take the main crank seal housing, oil pump, oil squirters etc etc and drop the crank. it will probably be easier to take the head off and just replace the rings and slap it back together if you want to do it on the cheap, but you might as well do the main and big end bearings while its all stripped (it'll only cost you around $140 extra for ACL bearings if you're doing it yourself). you'll need to check the clearances of the bearings and the bores too, and figure out why only #5 lost compression.

thats exactly it. or do what dangerman said and unplug the brown plug and get it on the dyno again.

edit

looks to me that its too consistent to be a coil/spark issue. and it handles it well after what looks to be 5000rpm. if it was a spark issue then that would've been the excuse his tuner gave him, not the timing one. im going to go out on a limb and say that the tuner didnt know how to tune out the R&R, so he said something was wrong with his timing. ive seen better tuning on a safc. scratch that... ive seen better curves on a standard ecu! if i was you i'd go back and make him fix it. if he cant then make sure you get your money back.

yeah it holds more pressure on boost as the standard one tends to leak above 14psi ive heard, but theres a mod to fix this floating around somewhere.