SECURITY

thats exactly what i was thinking.

wheres my thank you? i called u cutie and everything!!!!

lol

13.8 1/4 complete list of mods from when i did the run were: 3" turbo-cat exhaust. STANDARD muffler (defects). so i was pretty much running a standard exhaust!! pod fmic slide hiflow @10-12psi 60' was 2.4 but i was tinkering with a new launch method rather than line locking so starts were a bit off. speed was 107mph (which is good for a flat-low 13sec pass).

my auto box itself is completely standard, i dont even have the upgraded valve body - im waiting on getting the emanage to control the a/t shifts. im also running shitty 215's on the rears. and im actually making the same, if not quicker times then manuals with the SAME MODS. at low speeds it will drop to give you the maximum torque. at higher speeds you'll need to drop it into 2nd gear yourself. no dramas there.

depending on your box, flat stick changes will make you miss a gear (im not sure if the manual sky box has that safety shit). auto boxes dont 'take their time deciding', they are pretty aggressive when you put your foot down. dont forget you can control the gears too. auto boxes are heavier but only by around 20-40kg i think. i pull quicker times down the 1/4 than manual skylines with the same mods. explain that one? and yeah.. if its staying stock - get a manual.. but how often to skylines stay stock? you'll have alot of fun in an auto once you learn how to. i bought mine 3 years ago for $11,000. it was cheap and i was going to do a manual conversion for $500, and save myself $5-6,000 of the price difference. then i started modding it and racing it and i completely converted my views on the auto. plus when you munch someone off the lights and they ask, 'what have you done to it??', i think it hurts them alot more when you say... 'nothing.... its just an auto'.

i love my auto. ill find it hard to do a manual conversion unless i get taken away by the idea of making it a track car. the difference in performance isnt as bad as these bias mo-fo's make it out to be. it is a bit slower stock vs. stock. but once the mods start coming and you get some direct shifts (valve body upgrade, or emanage ultimate A/T control) you will be pulling some impressive times. some people ask me, why auto???? i reply.. why manual?? i also have an m3 and it is manual - and i enjoy driving my skyline more than it. i made 13.9 1/4 mile with a fmic, exhaust and pod...... and some shitty starts with some shitty el-cheapo 215's. guys with manuals with the same mods are making 14.1-14.2's. ive also taken it through a few hard runs through the twisties, and the box (with an aftermarket cooler) takes it like a dirty s**t. dangerman4 has run his auto with 300+kw and was fine. anyone who CANT have as much fun in an auto than a manual cant drive for shit. edit: maintenance wise: a complete box costs $300 max and will last you YEARS. mines lasted the car around 14yrs and isnt showing any signs of weakness. oil: once every 40,000km's $40 a pop. trans oil cooler kit: $80. fuel consumption: im making 400-430km on a tank. want bov noise: you need to back off the accelerator to make the car shift when you want it to. you can also make it shift just that tiny bit harder if you take your foot off completely then hit it again. TSHHHHH!! performance: want full boost through gear changes? get a shift kit and go for your life.

turning on the heater doesnt open the thermostat, it just gets any air pockets that are in the heater lines out when you're bleeding the system. best thing to do is wait for the engine to come close to OT, then turn the heater on, then start bleeding. turning the heater on will make the motor get to OT in longer time because you're pumping more coolant through the system. its definitely good practice to turn your heater on when bleeding the system though. as a fail safe, if your car ever over heats turn the heater on full blast so you get more coolant running through it.

its probably because your tyres are flat. pump them up and give that a go.

wont a bit of torque be lost through the twisting of the hex bit at all?? in my head it makes complete sense that it would lol

happy birthday cutie

yeah i heard about that. the copper appealed it and won.

i did. find the thread and eat your words

/evil conscience do it winky baby.. you know you want to go vrooom tshh. all the cool people are doing it. you're cool too, arent you?? /end evil conscience just f**king do it!

yep. i used assembly grease.

1.32 isnt TOO bad on a 20b. the exhaust they produce is equivalent to a 3L. ive seen a few of those turbos die. i think its the oil feed through. if you put this on make sure you get a 6mm oil feed made up for it. everyone i know thats failed has used the standard lines.

thats the standard part number. get some plastigauge (green) and check your clearances. if they're ok then order standard bearings from nissan or ACL or whoever and check the clearances again. if you're unsure about where to get them, head into a machinist and ask them to order you some that match your bearings. if clearances are no good, then get the crank reground and get the machinist to supply the bearings.

you should've used assembly grease instead of motor oil.

we all know thats not going to work winky. throw in a mini blower kit, then maybe you'll get some respect in here lol.

nice work mate, i love custom jobs. 10 points for originality/dedication to a bad decision lol.

have a look and see what kind of clearance you have between the turbo and the strut tower before you start, then see how much of the stud you need to clear before you can lift the manifold off then calculate how much longer the new studs are to see if you'll have enough room to get it back in.. as long as it works out to be ok then you'll be fine mate. with water lines you should be sweet if as soon as you disconnect them, you raise it so water doesnt flow through them. otherwise you'll lose around 2-3L of coolant and have some nasty air pockets in your motor which you'll have to bleed.

1. the car is 2/3 of the size, but dont forget that all of the new technology weights a shit load. and dont forget the motor and what not to operate the convertible weighs a fair bit too. so the weight isnt actually 2/3 chassis. 2. you took this a little TOO literally. the overall compactness of the car will cause the driver/passenger to hit their heads on things as theyre sitting closer to the dash/steering wheel/windscreen. there is no force against the seat? what about the seat itself? ive SEEN plenty of cars that have seats shear straight off their mounts as well as the adjuster thingo break too. if the engine is in the back, the engine has inertia in itself. as the front of the car crumbles, the engine, with all of its mass, will be alot harder to stop than if it were at the front (where it would have stopped as it hit the object). the inertia of the engine will cause the car to crumple even more. i know what you're saying with the whole crumple zone thing. but this is a 300-400kg motor you're trying to stop. ever run in front of a bull while its at full speed? your mass alone wouldnt stop it. and the mr2 doesnt have that much of a crumple zone. if you compare 2 cars, the mr2, and the mx5 (both practically the same). i will guarantee that there will be less front end damage to the mx5 than there will to the mr2. and the front end of the mr2 really isnt that long. by the time the 'crumple zone' is crumpled, the steering wheel is crushing your head because of the bigger crumple zone you're talking about. 3. i never mentioned a roof, did i? ive seen alot of accidents and alot of cars come out of accidents in different shapes (i did a bit of work as a panel beater through holidays). im not telling you what i read in a book, ive seen these things. 4. if you're going to argue something, stay consistent. we're talking about front end collisions, side collisions are different as the cars are pretty much equal. the only talk about control here is that the car is going into a wall. s2000 would be stronger because to honda is it reasonably forseeable that the car would be in a high speed collision. the car in top speed was intended for that purpose. the company who produces them (mercedes i think) intended it for the purpose of being as structuraly rigid as demonstrated. do you actually think they randomly chose that car? do they smash every car they road test? that has got nothing to do with this discussion because its clear that the smart car was built purposely for that. this can go back and forth for days and days. dont believe everything you read. go pop into a panel beater who does a wide range of cars and ask a few questions. but ive got an idea. go buy/steal one of each car. hit a wall at 120 clicks and tell me how you go. congrats on the new car dude, and im SO sorry for hijacking your thread. its definitely the best looking mr2 going around.

that damage to the head looks like it can be machined/sanded out but im just a backyard mechanic. send it off to get the valve seat repaired (if possible). you're (obviously) going to need 2 new valves. if you dont want to send it off right away, sand the valve seats back with some fine sand paper (if you're keen/confident). put the new valves in fully assembles with the valve spring etc, turn the cyl head up side down, then fill it up with water and leave overnight to see if its leaking. if it leaks then you're going to need to either get it machined, or get new valve seats. new seats will cost a fair bit as the process is pretty hardcore. they heat the head to expand, then freeze the valve seat to contract, sit it into position, then when they come to normal temperature they are very tightly in place. thats where your money is going if you have to get new seats id highly recommend replacing your valve stem seals too.

1. the car weighs sfa. so where has all the weight been saved, do you think? 2. the car is also tiny. my mate smacked his head on a windscreen of a liberty in an accident in a bigger car. would you like to see pics of the blood? i dont sit here thinking up shit to say because it sounds cool. look at it logically. what could they have done differently in the new car to make it THAT much safer? super duper seat mounts? super strong seat belts? your own personal force field? and the fact that the motor is in the back means that there is THAT much more momentum if it is in a head-on collision. 3. ofcorse not. skylines are performance vehicles and has a chassis to suit. this is not a performance vehicle and has a chassis to suit its purpose. would you throw in a 300kw motor into this and deem it safe to be street driven without a roll cage? they do not over-engineer cars in this category as its not suited to its purpose (and adds more weight). and its pricing proves this. 4. an s2000 is a performance vehicle, its purpose was is to be a performance vehicle and has a chassis to suit.

ive always hated these cars. most of them look like shit (with the kit, yours doesnt look too bad) and would probably have your head through the windscreen in a collision because theyre so damn light. if i was you i'd keep the space saver in there because im sure it will help with the front end strength of the car in a collision. it will have some effect in stop it from completely buckling. i would've gotten an s2000. my mate picked one up for $28k in IMMACULATE condition. the difference is around 8k... i would've paid it.