SECURITY

happy birthday sammehhhh

you look a little worried there.. didnt you get your moneys worth?

everyone except you two

everyones a f**king dictionary.

yeah, hes the dodgyest prick i know.

dont forget to turn your heater on full blast on the hottest setting. only start bleeding when the cars at around full operating temp otherwise air wont get pushed out. you need pressure in the system for it to work properly.

did you bleed your system of air after you topped up your coolant after the install?

haha i WAS implying that but i was mucking around. lots of my mates go to uni. even QUICKY does (its a scary thought though). i was just playin OR was i?

hey zack, swing past today and come see my new s2 front end. i mean yeah, its all the asians and stuff. but seriously, the only reason people bring cars to bankstown to strip them is because coppers have nowhere else to go after that because of the crime rate. how did they get away after they stripped it? have you thought that far? or did they run home with a panel under each arm? strip a car at the northen beaches and coppers will know exactly who to go to because only a hand full of people have records for car theft up that way. and seriously, what lebo is gonna get into UNSW to know your car is always there and has no alarm? lol

duncan foster engineering do good work and know the rb30 well. theyre in fairfield (syd) and are very well priced. i fit my rb25 in my r33 boot comfortably, im sure the rb30 will fit too.

i see you guys sell booster kits: http://aandbmotorsports.com/boostkit.html do you guys actually believe they work?

stop being a damn pansy. use tin snips.

the way the wire-in is designed is that if you ever wanted to remove it you could take the emu wiring out and plug the previous wiring back into each other. the emu comes with some 'clip-lock' crimpy things. just pay attention to the way it goes on and it will be easy to reverse.

eventually its going to be worth more to you if you've got your loan out of the way in whatever time it takes then rely on the rent as a primary source of income when you're older. $400 and possibly $500 p/w in the future isnt a bad thing when the place is paid off. and its going to be more steady than any other investment you decide to venture into. the worst thing you can do to yourself as a young home owner is sell the place if you can afford to keep it. its going to get harder and harder to get into property in the future.

well he replaced a few other things - slave cylinder and some plate on the back of the gearbox. the only reason i thought $400 was fine was because i trust his work. everything he replaces he shows me and everything he gets in he shows me the receipts etc. the clutch was in the car for a year (we had the motor rebuild 1.5yrs ago - also done by him). my brother doesnt drive it that hard - only a few runs down at WSID, but my dad cant drive manual to save his life. he drives it to work and back sometimes and rides the absolute shit out of it around 4 days a week.

but how did he do the test?, how many pieces did he use on each bearing? which one did he use? are you merely going off his word or did you see this yourself? my opinion would be to get a new crank, or if yours is still serviceable get it to another machinist and get him to check the thrust bearing clearance as well as check the crank for run-out.

ahhh shit, i even organised a few cheer leaders for this. what a shit go! ill go to the next friday event though.

and the trick here is to

its not really a loss. you're actually getting $400 p/w of your mortgage paid for you, i dont know if thats covering your costs or not, but $400 of a $650 p/w payment (for e.g.) is better than $650 completely out of your pocket when you come to live in it (if you do). you're virtually getting the place for 1/3 of the price. thats the way i see it and thats the reason why i'd never look into renting. my money has always been in property/development and a fair bit of investing (shares). property has showed a much greater ROI if you can get into it. if you sell you'll get a bit of money out of it but you might as well refinance and keep the property if you want to re-invest some of your cash.

we just did the clutch and flywheel in my m3 and it cost $800 for a clutch, $600 for a 2nd hand flywheel (damn those twin mass flywheels!) and $400 on labour. they definitely arent cheap to do major works on, but servicing etc is just like every other car. do the servicing yourself and get a workshop to reset the service light on the dash. if an m3 was on the list i definitely would've given it my vote. the pro's outweigh the cons.

try a different machinist. if he didnt get the clearances right the first time why would you send it back to the same guy? sure, id make him pay for it - but id send it to another machinist. when he re-ground the crank he probably didnt use the correct specs. get a new crank and test it with some plastigauge before you throw it back in. did your mechanic do a crush test with some plastigauge when you got the crank back, or did he just throw it in thinking it would all be fine?

my bad. thats meant to be 06. edited.

the boxter S is not entry level. there is a boxter with 150ishkw and there is the boxter S with around 206kw. i was looking for one when i was thinking about selling my bmw. they go for around the $50k mark for an 98ish model and a 06ish model can be had for around $110k.

to remove the bolt, get a breaker bar and have it lean over to the left hand side of the motor (right hand side if you're looking into your engine bay) so that it is levering on the ground. then just crank the car and it will undo the bolt.

thats an excellent point. there are ALOT of people here who let their cheque books do the talking and think they're #1 because theyve got all the expensive parts. ask them an engine question and they show their true 'more dollars then sence' attitude. dont become one of those dummies mate.