SECURITY

happy birthday LJ!!!!

heres a guide to where you'll need to cut the hole, under the washer bottle that i ripped from the other thread: you'll need to cut out the front reo bar in 2 places for the fmic to fit up to 2 existing holes on it (you'll see them when you take the bar off). ive seen plenty of s2 installs that dont need the front bar to be hacked into with the JJ kits. its the series 1 bars that need butchering.

sounds like ignition cut rather than a fuel cut. factory = fuel cut most other aftermarket computers = ignition cut (because its safer) ill put up a vid of what my car sounds like with the ignition cut @ 3500 and 7000 for you to compare if you like.

flat spot is usually coil packs gap the sparkies you have in there to .65 to .7 and see how you go. BCPR6ES is the part number for copper NGK plugs (around $4 each).

goes like a zyrtek

yeaaaa braa

i'd like.. ummmm... SO go.. cause like im a killa skater n shit.. but ummm.... THE GRAND FINAL IS ON.

f**k you're gay.

maybe to buy the piping will cost $50-$100. bends cost $45 alone and you'll need welding, joiners, brackets. i'd like to shop at your workshop.

hey dude, looks like a neat GTR youve got there. welcome to the club. this site is choc full of info. for the right setup and turbo choices that suit you, have a look at this thread: "rb26 turbo upgrade, all dyno results." flick through and see what power people are making with their choice of turbo/s for the rb26. first thing i'd suggest is to get it into a workshop to check for a few things before you get started: -compression -leak down -oil pressure -fuel pressure -A/F ratio if all checks out o.k. and within spec i'd start hitting the car up with some mods. i'd suggest looking into a Power FC. the EMS doesnt have much support in sydney, i only know 1 workshop in sydney that does it. you should click on the events section to see when the next meet is. but be careful, alot of these guys are complete poofs and will attack as soon as they see you bend over into your engine bay. p.s. if you find someone good to tune your EMS computer (if you choose to keep it), let me know. ive got one in my m3 that isnt tuned and is running like shit.

im thinking igniter pack or CAS. does anyone know if the igniter packs and CAS are interchangeable between the rb20 and rb25 (s1)?

that'll do as long as its a sure thing, count me in.

ill go if we take a run through nasho after.

from the logic thats twirling around in my head i think that the intake will need to be laminar so the turbo picks it up easier. wont a turbulent intake cause some kind of restriction? as for the intercooler pipes.. the air is pressurised so luminar or turbulent airflow isnt really an issue because you really just want the quickest easiest flow. the air is made turbulant to mix with the fuel by the intake port as it is quite . some people out there dont port and polish the intake side because they believe that the air is made turbulent before it enters the combustion chamber by how coarse it is. the exhaust side is usually ported and polished more to help the air escape more efficiently. but thats just what i have made sense of, and what makes sense to me.

its a pretty involved job but you could do it in a day if you had the tools/knowledge. the turbo/s dont need to come off, just disconnect all of the lines and use some strong mates or an engine crane to pull it out (it will be heavy). head studs off, auxiliary bolts off (there are 3 of them, 2 at the back and 1 at the front which is in a prick of a spot). disconnect all brackets from under the plenum. out she goes. scrape off the old head gasket with a clean sharp razor off the block and the head. use a straight metal rule to check the head for any kind of warp in it. if it is warped you'll need to remove the plenum and exhaust sides off and take it to a machinist to shave the head. it costs around $50 to do this. if you've got little mechanical experience or it is the first time to do anything like this you should just send it to a mechanic. also.. look into replacing it with a metal head gasket. while its off you might want to look into blocking off the rear oil feed if it suits you.

power steering fluid leaks.... welcome to the club. they are so damn common you'd think skylines came like that from nissan.

i want storm to win but i think manly will take it home.

be careful where you go. i went somewhere who told me they 'can do emanage easy etc etc'. it was one of the ugliest tunes and experiences with a workshop ive ever had. at first, R&R kicked in. he had no idea on how to use the boost cut feature to get rid of it. he told me that this was a common problem and that i needed an extra part to fix it. because i got familiar with it before i went in, i had to adjust it for him! i ended up not paying for the tune and walked away pissed off for wasting 3hrs for a shit tune. if you want to know where to stay away from, hit me up with a PM and ill tell you.

grab some beer, mates and have a grand-final weekend.

its got to be practical too. im going to copy the bracket in one of the threads bb posted. ill post pics of how it turns out.

i'd wack some turbos on it and dose it.

doesnt cams require the fire extinguisher to be in reaching distance from the drivers seat? ive thought about that, but i dont think it would be approved/safe if it wasnt within reaching distance. like what was said in one of the threads beer baron linked: the last thing you want is to be upside down, locked into your seat belt, smelling something burning and not being able to reach your fire extinguisher. i've been in a situation where a fire extinguisher helped slow down the burning of a car which bought us some time to get people out/away from the car that rolled over and lit up. thats why im being overly cautious about where i want it mounted (nice and close), not just to meet regulations.

its only showing 1 post by 'someonestolecc', not the whole thread for some reason. but i found it. cheers.

thanks. first link is useless. the link in it doesnt work anymore. 2nd link is what i had in mind, but the r33 rails arent straight across on the passenger side, one comes up on an angle so it will look a bit aquard.

ive bought a fire extinguisher for when i do track days but i cant think of where to mount the bracket. i want it in there all the time, not just for track days so its got to be functional. i was thinking of mounting it on a piece of metal that i'd put between the front 2 bolts of the seat rail. the drivers side looks easiest, the passenger side is a bit uneven so mounting it might be a problem. having it on the drivers side will restrict how far forward i can put my seat, although i do drive with my seat all the way back on the rail which isnt too much of a problem. does anyone have any hints or ideas on where to mount the fire extinguisher, pictures would be handy.