SECURITY

sounds like a plan, ill let you know closer to when it all happens because its right in the middle of exam season.

tempe tyres do guard rolling at around $45 a corner. tell them joe with the big wang sent you.

you completely missed the point. for $200 i could have all the paints and equipment which will let me do more than just my side skirts. i'll be able to do my bonnet, rear bar and my new front bar when i get it. i painted half of my car so i know what im doing, i just dont have a gun. yeah thats it. at the end of the day its theyre just a set of skirts. rubbing it back isnt hard, and yellow is a pretty forgiving colour.

$200 is good for a front bar, sideskirts are alot easier to do. i have done some spray work before and it was using a shit spray gun. i've got a decent enough compressor to get the job done too. all i need is a spray gun which i can borrow off a mate, or worst case i can buy one for $100, and the paints and clear which will cost me $50. i've got a little bit of primer left over from my car laying around somewhere. resprays are even easier/quicker to do. it shouldnt cost THAT much just for a respray. i think im just used to getting all my stuff done for cheap.

i got quoted $200 for my side skirts which doesnt sound very competitively priced, especially for acrylic paint. i'll be buying my own paint gun and doing it myself.

haha ok you win! but theres so many shades of my colour, its easy to get it wrong. ill see how he goes anyway.

ill head down to see him soon to get a quote to have my sideskirts painted. i heard he has reasonable prices too, and moving to smithfield (cheaper rent) should be better?? my colour is freaking hard to match though.

yeah my guess is the gasket for the runners too. i dont see how vacuum hose could find its way into there, unless you meant silicon/rubber joiners???

thats true but only for the N1 water pumps. they flow less at low rpm because they were designed mainly for vehicles that are track dedicated or vehicles that are driven hard (sustain high revs, often) and are fed a higher volume of water at higher rpm where they spend most of their time. N1 oil pumps flow more all over the rev range. they are a 'high volume' pump which means more oil and higher pressures. i've got one in my car and my std gauge reads a little higher than what it used to before the build.

have a read of this bud: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t110680.html

nissan have manifold studs for around $4 a pop.

cant you pull the motor out with the turbos still on? edit: just read that you're not pulling the motor out at all. to get the pump on you'll need to pull the motor out. you'll also need to take the head off to get your oil restrictors sorted (if you haven't already). you'll need to do them now if you havent already as the n1 pump will pump around 25% more oil at any given psi.

drivers side sun visor?

yeah thats cool, i logged my own data and it was almost identical, it was around .02v off. even with my own logged voltaged on there it didnt work.

no i only copied the airflow output map. im emailing it now mate.

tuners just hate doing them. just because they quote you a high price it doesnt mean that its the going rate. someone who is more comfortable doing it will charge less than someone who has less experience or is less comfortable doing them. when my old man asks me to price up a job but isnt really worth our time/effort, i just jack the quote up to something that will make it worth my while if they're silly enough to tell us to go ahead with it. it doesnt mean that its going to cost me that much to do the job. its just better than saying, 'no, i dont want to do it' to the client. going rate is around $200-220 for a safc tune. they dont do much and it should only take around 30-40mins. installation is around $50 but you can do this yourself.

thanks guys, bunnings had them. they didnt have any 3-way splitters left in stock, so i had to grab a 4-way splitter and block one off. i also grabbed a little piece that will work as a water spray nozzle for my fmic.

i just tried it again with the map sensor selected, and with your output map as well. same thing. it just stalls.

you legend. ill swing past bunnings now. thanks mate.

just need one to connect up my MAP sensor. anyone know where i can get one from?

Trent, i need your help mate. i followed your instructions to remove the AFM but every time i put the data into the Airflor Output map and as soon as i do, the car either doesnt start, or if i do it while the car is running it will start to spew out black smoke and eventually stall. what am i missing? i did it VS. Throttle position AND AFM Voltage and i got the same thing. do i have to unplug the AFM for it to work? does the MAP sensor need to be plugged in? if so, what settings do i punch into the emanage?

top cruise assassin. heaps better than the ones ive been on.

its a turbo elbow that you're after. good luck finding one that isnt attached to a turbo.

think of the sound ping makes as someone throwing a handfull of sand at the front of your car. you'll only really notice it while moving unless somethings really f**ked up with your tune.

i just had my slide turbo rebuilt by GCG with a GT core, not the regular core they put in their hiflows. boost comes in so much earlier. with the slide turbo i'd see around 5psi by 3500-3800, with the garrett one i see 5psi by 2600-3000. that was probably due to slide over-boring the housings though (which GCG had to re-shim). ill be getting it tuned soon so ill update in this thread.