Tenny

I picked up 5L of isopropyl from a cleaning supplier for $20. You mix a decent amount of the ice, crushed into almost a powder, with a few dashes of the alchohol until it becomes like a slurry. Pour that on the sound deadening and leave it for a few minutes until you hear the cracks / pops stop. Then scoop the ice onto another part of the deadening and smash the previous bit with a rubber mallet from underneath if you can. Then using a scraper you can flake off really large pieces. Rinse and repeat.

That is the plan at this stage..although I do know how heavy it is so not sure to what extent yet. I'm hoping to make the car fairly quiet to give it a more modern feel. Hopefully the underliner helps in doing that as well. here is a photo of all my shed ornaments as of tonight....

At this stage I have purchased both a complete rear and front subframe for $2750 which will get the car back to a rolling state. Yet to pick these up. But they will be stripped and completely revamped with new paint, bushes, etc before going in. The next thing i'm waiting on is a car rotisserie so I can mount the shell, move it around and prep the underbody for a liner (like raptor etc). If anyone has done this as well, advice and recommendations would be appreciated. I have lined up one to be picked up in about a month for free...so that should be good.

I also started stripping the sound deadening out of the gtr with dry ice and isopropyl alchohol. Tried the freeze cans but wasn't as effective as I thought it would be. Once the car is stripped entirely of sound deadening material, the inside will be cleaned out and made as clean as possible. Still unsure whether I will be painting the interior yet. If anyone has done this before and has thoughts please be sure to let me know.. The body paint will be stripped, any necessary body work done and put in primer as I accumulate parts to put it back together.

Within the first week, I bought a crashed gtst shell to steal as much as I could in the way of generic interior, rubbers, seals, rear bar and reo, rear window, quarter glass etc. It also came with a genuine 32 GTR steering wheel for only $400...what a steal.

First day the car arrived... Thinking about what a mistake I had made hahaha. At this stage I have the following genuine gtr parts for the car: bonnet drivers guard boot and wing n1 headlights grille I am also slowly gathering new rubbers and seals etc from places like Kudos etc.

Alrighty guys, So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...) With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts. The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top). This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).

I'm just asking for opinions man, people here have a TONNE of experience. There's only one way to learn right?

Problem?

Hey guys, Picked up a s1 25 with a blown head gasket really cheap a few weeks back. i'm gonna pull it apart and send it off to a engine shop to get the head and block checked for cracks etc hoping it was just a blown gasket. What else should I do while the motor is out and apart? Water pump timing belt (should I do the cam seals? I have some brand new ones here) VRS gasket kit ARP head studs (I have some brand new Nason ones here, are they any decent or don't use them?) thicker head gasket (metal?) piston rings it's gonna go into my 32 and at some stage im hoping for 300-350hp and maybe up to 450hp in a few years time. What should I do now to future proof myself? I would like to stick to a budget of around $2000 but I can stretch if its worth it. What is everyone's opinions? Sorry if the post seems a bit stupid, i'm new to building engines. Cheers

Thanks. I don't actually have a turbo timer, but it's possible there was one in it years ago. This still should not stop all power besides those few lights in the video?

I made a quick video that might explain the problem a little bit better. So basically, no ignition lights or power to anything else in the car. Windows, all lights, indicators. Car will turn over when key is turned, but fuel pump is not priming and possibly no spark. Is it possible this is being caused by something that isn't earthed? I have tried looking for all earths and grounding them to the chassis / engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV3BmF8Auuo&feature=youtu.be Cheers guys.

More pics.. That is the resistor for the injectors or coilpacks (not sure which one?) and the second pic is the ignitor plugged in. As you can see there is also a plug on top of the ignitor with nothing in it..

Cheers thanks man. I took two more pics. First pic is another plug that I have no bloody clue what it is. I somehow missed it before. Any idea? Second pic is where that resistor is supposed to go. Doesn't look like anything has ever been there on this car, although it could be mounted further back. PS. Thanks for helping man, I really appreciate it.

Ah yes, the grey one does look like consult. Had a quick look and can't find anywhere for that other plug to go still..

I actually already have done that. Wasn't able to find anything on my mates 32 in regards to the engine bay plugs anyway. Wasn't able to check the dash ones at all.

The car was a rolling shell. I haven't touched any of the body loom..but I have put the engine loom and engine in myself. Oh and as for the rust, that's the only place in the whole shell that has rust, so I'm not worried. Already got a plate to tack in there.

Hey guys, I have no headlights, taillights, indicators, interior lights or dash lights. (battery light will come on when I switch the headlight switch - but will remain on until the battery is disconnected) I do not have the two green ECU relays in currently..but have tested with friends and the same issue persists. I have checked all under dash fuses...all good. Not sure about engine bay fuses though. I have taken some photos of some plugs that I cannot find homes for..could you guys take a look at them and tell me what they are for? THANKYOU FOR UNDERSTANDING I AM YOUNG AND THIS IS ALL PRETTY NEW TO ME HENCE I AM A CAR NOOB. This splices out from the starter motor / alternator loom. Can't find anywhere to plug it into the alt? These two plugs are coming out of the fuse box...no where for them to be plugged in? These two plugs seem to be related to the headlights..but once again nothing to plug into? These two plugs again seem to be near the headlights..any clue? I believe one plug is for the power steering reservoir which has been cut on mine, but the other two don't seem to have a place? Again, not sure what this plug does / where it goes. This last plug looks important..but again no luck in finding where it goes. Help would be greatly greatly appreciated please

So. Another long weekend it's been. Good to finally get some stuff done though. After much mucking around on the engine, we discovered that the knock sensors etc had been damaged broken..plus alot of the misc hoses and such were missing. Also found out im losing my job relatively soon due to government changes blabla so needed to get this car on the road ASAP. Had a mate selling a complete engine which would make things so much easier, so decided to pick up that. Pulled the gearbox, clutch, flywheel and all the new parts off the old motor straight away ready for this weekend. Also acquired an RB25 45V2 turbo this week which we bolted straight on. Unfortunately we wasted about 3 hours trying to find some copper crush washers for the turbo water lines. Supercheap, Repco, autobarn, bunnings didn't have anything at all.....last place we tried, Masters...had the exact size and pretty much any washer you could want. So if anyone is chasing special bits like that, Masters is actually pretty decent. After spending a few hours bolting everything on, making sure everything was right we rolled the motor out to give it a good flush out as it had been sitting for a while. Next thing was to put it in...the big moment. Wasn't the easiest thing to do with just two people, but wasn't that difficult either. Just making sure you don't hit anything was the hardest part haha. And.....it's in! So good to finally have some visible progress, just gotta keep plodding along. Next up is going to be wiring..which is gonna be the fun part... Which reminds me, I have an apexi AVCR that came with my loom, but im missing the Boost sensor that it supposed to come with it. http://www.nengun.com/apexi/avc-r-replacement-sensor Does anyone have one lying around they wanna get rid of? would rather not pay $85 for a new one but might just have to. Next on the list: Engine / body looms connected hydraulic lines etc Radiator hooked up FMIC installed and cooling pipes set up etc HICAS delete Just want to be able to turn the key already!

Thanks for the input Mik I had planned on getting a GTR / look alike front bar and spoiler but with the colour issue, there isn't much I can do until a full respray. I've already spent a fair whack in the last few months, so will probably drive it for a few months before deciding to get a respray. If I was getting a colour change, I don't think I'd stay with green to be honest. I'm not sure what colour, but maybe the original gun metal grey (original...I know) or a dark blue / purple. The car itself is straight as, not a dent on it. (that I have found yet) haha.

Nah only stock 20 turbo. Only reason I ask is because my loom has been modified with the Z32 plug as the AFM came for free with the loom. So this meaning I will most likely have to source the original green afm plug and splice it back onto the loom. Not sure how easy it will be to get a plug, hoping not too hard. What would your guys recommendations be for the cheapest and semi-decent ecu?

yeah i knew it it couldn't be stock ecu. Is there a way to flash it? i'm assuming not.

Hey guys. Managed to score a free Z32 afm but haven't been able to find any solid info on what I need in regards to ECU. I still haven't got an ECU yet but have access to stock rb20 ones quite readily. So basically what I'm asking is, do I need a nistune to run it? or an aftermarket one? I searched but couldnt find anything so sorry if i missed it

Not entirely sure to be honest. Semi-daily is most likely. bit of a weekend cruiser as well etc. I can't do much to it because of P plate laws but the next thing after that may have to be a respray so I can get a new front bar and side skirts. (custom colour that can't be remade exactly the same).

Test fitted the new wheels today. Looks pretty good but really shows how much it needs to be lowered Front has no engine in yet so it obviously will come down a fair bit but coilovers will be in need at some point.