GTofuS-T
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Posts posted by GTofuS-T
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I'm going to start by guessing there's a 90% chance the yellow jacket coil packs will give out on the dyno and final tune deferred until replaced with splitfires, OEM or LS/Yaris/etc Conversion.
may need more detail though, target boost? boost controlled with? is it an r34 NEO or r33 rb25 or possibly even an rb20? how complete is the highflow exhaust? dump back? diameter? cat?
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If you want to keep it original looking, the old fashioned way was to use one of those headphone jack to radio transmitters (or bluetooth is also available nowadays)
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Yea, sounds like you want to replace due to an arbitrary number?
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hmmm no "Retrofitting refers to the addition of new technology or features to older systems. "
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Seriously though, you could try reversing in, I have this issue at my mum's place which has the usual 45/60 degree gutter, can't go in front ways, but reversing up is fine, it would be much more severe than what that your dad's looks like
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Adjust coilovers to a practical height.
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How confusing! Was it just an option back then?
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15 minutes ago, Duncan said:
from memory 33 gtst has 3 channel ABS with ABS on the tailshaft so it may not be gtst.
only S2 had ABS
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Yes it would work. How it would sound is another issue.
I'm sure if you went in to JB hifi where they have headunits, amps and speakers set up, you could ask them if you can plug your phone directly into the amp to test. might have to bring your own 3.5mm>RCA cable or buy one there
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The only tricky part now that i think of it, is you normally wire the power direct from the battery, and then there's a signal wire from the head unit which actually turns it on, so this signal wire I'm guessing you could wire up to an ignition or acc source to achieve the same thing
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Should be pretty easy and cheap or as expensive as you want to go depending on brand
3.5mm to RCA: <$10
a 2-channel amp: $89 this will only run a small sub or 2 x speakers as you've mentioned
and then your pick of speakers that fit, I"m guessing 6" usually in the front, there's not really much else to it, except a wiring kit and possibly some RCA female to male cables depending on where you install the amp.
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All these negative comments I could understand if you were going from an actual sequential gearbox with all the bells and whistes, to a standard box with this kit on it.
Anyone who is only used to the ol' H-pattern on the track is still going to have clutch on accel off muscle memory and an idea of their rev range, unless they are literally retarded.
The benefits I can see are:
- the shifter location, i.e. closer to the steering wheel for those who aren't sick leb dream boats that drive with one hand on the gearknob at all times for that phallic sensation.
- reinforces the practice of downshifting through the gears, rather than say from 4 to 2,
- minimises the memory requirement of the current gear, especially when you're mixing it up, trying 2nd instead of 3rd at a slower corner to keep the revs up for example, and the gearknob is some 10 to 15cm south west of where you thought it was
of course all this still requires the driver to be actively thinking about what they're doing, which to be quite honest, that's literally your one job while driving, is to think about driving.
So for my shitty track car worth <$5k am I going to spend $20+k on a sequential? hell no, $1.5k on a lever? much more likely
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@PranK can probably help you out with that!
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Yeah I'm pretty sure they shut down, @Cadmoon can confirm.
I've maintained my SAUNSW membership since moving to QLD, shouldn't be an issue
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3 hours ago, Home Built By Jeff said:
Back into it after having my 911 build video go viral with over 11 million views in the first 5 days. This week it is time to fit some wheel arch flares to my Z.
Wow, do you know what the catalyst for going viral was?
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20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
yeah nah..
if you're serious, I could organise something
he is just 1 man, start a GB thread to gauge actual forum wide interest perhaps?
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13 hours ago, Ryan Zhu said:
but i already have made the decision, was asking about the fine behind it.
What do you expect us to know the psyche of all the police in your unknown location? I've been pulled over 3 times this year in a bucket looking Skyline, bucket seat, loudish aftermarket exhaust, fmic, gauges, etc. acted like a reasonable human being and they didn't once even glance at my car. Other people get completely raped.
Alternatively the fine should be a published number in your states road laws, try doing some research.
Wait i see you're posting in QLD, 1 point $126. The higher costs will be they'll go over your whole car and make a list of defects (which they'll fine you for each non-conformance) then you'll have to have rectified , verified, re-registered, etc.
https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/safety/fines/demerit/points#modifications
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1 hour ago, ActionDan said:
Herniated disc, damn you're paying attention lol
If only I could remember important shit
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3 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:
It's a CA in a S13. Drive it till it literally won't crank over anymore. Fix everything else with race tape and cable ties.
Only then go down your SR route. Anyone who had a car off the road for over 12 months will tell you seat time is more rewarding/fun than building a car with a dream parts list.2 minutes ago, ActionDan said:It's mostly race tape and cable ties now
That's partly my point, you don't get seat time if you rock up and it splits another f**king hose.This is what keeps my R33 relatively standard, the amount of top dollar builds on this forum alone that have multiple continuous track days ruined by little things happening, it's just not worth it (for me), unless someone else is footing the bill.
9 track days in the last 12 months, 1.5 hr drive to and from the track (in the car), no major issues, improved times each session from experience & happy
Each to their own though, If i had the room like you do, and it's obviously not being used for the summer, then i'd probably go for it. But also removing a manifold would be way easier than removing an engine? although leaning over the car for hours working on it is a pain and I think you said you had back issues?
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go with number 4, cause let's be realistic, once you have a bare engine to play with, you're gonna be like "may as well go forged since it's sitting there and easy to disassemble".. next minute your'e send the head off to NAPREC and engine build takes 2 years so flog the current one to death. Don't even bother changing the turbo cause may as well save the cash and just buy an EFR for the new build
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2 hours ago, ActionDan said:
2nd hand forged SR
after all the shit you've given SR's you can't do this
I'd go for 2 over 4, if it's off season and don't need it running (i.e. daily) while you prep it then why go through the hassle of buying an unknown engine? and then also having to deal with shit kickers lowballing you when you go to sell the current engine.
But i must be more of a jew, as I'd go with 1. leaks aren't going to kill an engine surely? just keep topping her up and hope for the best. Plus option 2 is going to cause a mass headache, the amount of "just did an engine swap and now it's not firing/running right/etc" threads/FB posts you see is insane.
In regards to the turbo water line, checking your thread, looks like a braided hose, was it custom? who made it? it's blowing my be related to itself more than the engine. Just a thought.
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Nice, I was looking at these, but already went down the path of a shitty relocation kit. so next time.
might just be the photo angle, but looks like that pressure sender will foul the oil line?
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42 minutes ago, djr81 said:
Actually turning up for an event is a dick move.
I heard he's just going to do burnouts out the front of the event and then launch it into a fence
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23 minutes ago, fatz said:
Yea I actually bought two mnp 33 gtrs
combined all the cool shit onto my race car then sold the other rolling shel
disappointing your #stance fans with this race car nonsense
Will having different diameter wheels trip VDC?
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
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If you're concerned about your nice tires I'd swap all four, the front tires still take a hiding on the track