HarrisRacing

Check my build thread for very detailed Nismo install instructions including highlighted areas where to grind. It was not significant by any means. Regarding the clutch diff vs helical...I think the nismo 1.5 instructions references that it is a lightly set clutch style...not crazy deceleration lockup (but I haven't driven mine yet). I'll let you know when I drive it. I would also have chosen quaife but I would have had to become a dealer in the USA and buy 10 of them to get one! Also nismo came with the bearings and seals. I don't think other ones do. (Tomei, quaife, etc). Also don't forget you will be buying / ordering shims. The setup took a bit of time for me. I had to make 2 shims.

Still going strong! Removed the hicas rack from the rear. Read a great piece of advice to use those lines as fuel lines and left the main lines in to do that later on. Plumbing of the coolant piping on the intake manifold is done, fabricated the manifold for that, waiting on it to come back from the powder coating shop (today hopefully). Also I installed a temp sensor in the oil filter housing...it's a GM unit and was M12x1.5 threads...it was super cheap too. This will go to the Haltech as one of my aux temp inputs. This can be used for engine protection if the temp gets too high. Also added a TEE in the line for the oil pressure and will purchase the haltech oil pressure sending unit and remote mount it. This way the factory gauge should still work (I used a new sensor there) and then I can run the haltech oil pressure to the ECU for engine protection with oil pressure. I'm also having to rework some wiring for new sensor locations. The coolant piping is getting pretty complex - more so than I wanted to be honest...but it is what it is, and should still be relatively serviceable. Also will order Haltech fast action air temp sensor and Wideband today. I think I may be able to start the car next weekend (April 16th weekend). I have all of the exhaust bends and will begin fabricating that this week. All turbo oil feed/drain lines are sorted, waiting on ONE fitting to show up to finish the drain. It's getting there! BTW - I went to the TX2K16 event here in the states and saw that GT-R run that quick pass!

The math on even 2.8L says the EFR 8374 can be maxed rpm-wise. I would think a 9180 would be frigging nasty on a 3.4!!

I concur completely on the "revs less". I think when leaving deck height and Rod length stock you do side load pistons more with more stroke which theoretically lowers life but again I'm not expecting more than 8500 rpms out of this setup (which I'm sure it will do).BTW - Perfect choice on cams. I ordered mine early on (when I was planning -7s and stockish rebuild) hence the Tomei poncam A. But while I was having head machined we did relieve the head for big cams. Yours are exactly the spec I would have liked to have. Your setup is going to be awesome. I can't wait to hear mine run. Also realize I have never driven a GT-R other than this one with a rod knock at Super low rpms from my house to the shop (8 miles). I couldn't tell you before and after as I went off the deep end on this build.

Oh Boy. I just realized he stated 460 AWKW! Sorry about that...Moot point from me and the -5's. Best get the -10's out. Was thinking 460 WHP...different. In which case, 460whp, -5's and 800cc are just about fine And regarding my build...dynos are dynos. I'll get Hatlech data from road pulls for you guys to compare later on. I don't care for dyno numbers, I just want my car to be fast around a race track. I'm *hoping* for 550 whp on pump gas and a nice fat powerband with my setup and I am not handicapping myself with stock turbos / manifolds. I think my math is right on 800cc injectors capable of 800 HP right around 87% duty cycle though.

I know the factory head manifold design is such that coolant just doesn't circulate well through the back of the head and those cylinders run a bit hotter than the fronts. If you think about it, the coolant from the pump has to fight friction losses all the way to the back and likely is taking the path of least resistance by exiting up front first. Also while it's traveling to the rear of the head it's constantly absorbing heat from the head and block. If you look at the factory HEATER EXIT port in the Right side of the block, it's exiting on the rear of the engine. It also constantly recirculates to the back of the water pump regardless of the thermostat position (ie-constant circulation hot or cold). I've wondered if this was plumbed this way to constantly have the water pump draw fluid from the back of the block to promote circulation (ie reduced stagnation) there. You can see this clearly in the intake manifold design. I have attached some annotated drawings showing the original manifold, the block heater / coolant bypass piping made up on my engine, and the Hypertune 1 and 2 manifolds. It would be nice to introduce colder temp coolant towards the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be putting a coolant temp sensor in the rear of the block so I can log this with the Haltech later. May show us some good information. Patrick

This sounds accurate. Actually sounds significantly tougher than the beloved Z-tune spec. The Brian Crower stroker kit (I have) is 79mm stroke, which is longer than some of the others (Z-tune & Tomei are 77.7mm), which will yield more bottom end torque and overall displacement with a "theoretical" reduction in RPMS. I say this all with a grain of salt because BC claims their rotating assembly is good for 1,200 HP on "sportsman rods" (10,000 rpms) and over 1,500 HP (11,000 rpms) on their upgrade "625 rods" (which are nothing more than upgraded fasteners in the same rods). Granted you'd be hard pressed to find my car revving that high! The upgrade is that these cranks are bomb-proof billet 4340 cranks. That being said I went with BC because I'm in the US and got a great deal on a whole package of BC stuff. I want a responsive bottom end setup for my car but also want to be able to chuck the boost at it later without worrying much. So my setup is: BC stroker w/ sportsman rods, CP valve-relieved pistons ordered at 8.5:1 CR. From what they say the pistons are -15.77cc domes. brand new N1 block (standard 86mm bores) This puts me at 2.75L on standard bores with the 79mm stroke. Tomei PONCAM A - yes 'A'. I want the car to be a very nice streetable powerband. These are still bigger than stock by a large margin, but shouldn't lope at idle (especially with the stroker). Turbo - this is where I'm different - BW 8374 EFR .92 IWG divided w/ 6boost divided manifold. I expect to be at the dyno within 45 days! (THIS IS INCORRECT SEE REMARKS BELOW!) - I actually think 800cc injectors and -5's coupled with a stroker will get you to your goal on pump gas. I'm only using 800cc as they are likely good for 800 HP (and my turbo is only good for 750 HP). Good luck! You may want to follow my build thread here for notes. EDIT- REALIZED YOU SAID 460 AWKW....was thinking 460 whp.

Yep, would have to be EGT's though, since widebands can't handle heat of turbo manifold. Not sure I'll ever be convinced to put 6 EGT sensors in the manifold.

That has either been A) Modified / Repaired (poorly I might add) or B) Is NOT a 6boost manifold. Mine looks NOTHING like that. Edited to attach pictures of mine (sorry I can get closeups next time I am at the shop).

I was just noticing the Base map tune trim for the Haltech Platinum pro has a pretty serious addition for fuel on the high end of boost and RPM on the # 4,5 and 6 cylinders. I am assuming this is for factory coolant and intake manifold layout... So I have a few questions: 1) Do most people zero out the fuel trims when moving to a bigger plenum? I'm running a Hypertune V2 and the coolant is all relocated out of the intake manifold collector to a separate manifold that I have made up to go back to the radiator. 2) Does anyone know a procedure for finding out HOW to tune individual injector trims? 3) Does anyone have a base map tune for single turbo with hypertune manifold? Any ideas or comments are welcome. Thank you.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/14002-thermo-shield.html I use the gold colored. I still want my intercooler piping to be radiating heat away from it before the intercooler, I use it on the surrounding objects to keep them from absorbing it (IE - valve cover powdercoating and other surrounding lines). I see that this is an inlet line to the rear turbo (non-factory setup), so yes he's probably wanting to keep cool air in the inlet side. Edit - sorry realized those were inlet lines.

Well this is what I have. Not the prettiest as we did it on the MIG machine, but it looks like it should work fine. The -10 AN hoses wrap around the intake manifold and collect into this header. I also zip-tied the swirl pot in the rear. I'll be running the 3x small fittings from the top of the V2 manifold (vapor bleeds) to the swirl pot, as well as running the radiator overflow (with no pressure cap on it) to the swirl pot which will then be run to the back of the water pump (constant bleeding during circulation). Big hurdle here. This should be offered with the Hypertune V2 manifold.

I am still ongoing with my build and am still going at this Hypertune V2 manifold plumbing. This manifold replaces the entire coolant block that normally bolts to the head and routes the hot coolant to the radiator. Instead of this cast piece, you get (4) lower AN fitting ports and (3) upper air bleed AN ports. The lower ports are: (3) -10 AN fitting (starting from rear coming forward) (1) -6 AN fitting (at the front of the manifold near the water inlet neck) The upper ports are: (3) -4 AN fittings (which I'm pretty sure I'll be replacing with standard barbs). I am having FITS trying to locate a position for all of these hoses to go while making room for fuel lines and dodging my oil cooler plumbing. Also keep in mind I'm trying to ensure that this unit is serviceable (IE-can still remove the manifold without pulling engine). It's been a trying task to say the least, but I think I have a workable solution. I have attached a design that I'm going to build this weekend. I still plan on using the stock ECU coolant temp and Gauge coolant temp sensors and they will be contained in this manifold as well. So the things this manifold will collect: (3) -10 AN lines from hypertune manifold (1) -6 AN line from hypertune manifold (1) ECU coolant temp sensor (1) Gauge coolant temp sensor Turbocharger water return line Main outlet to radiator I'm using a piece of aluminum stock that is 1.290" OD x 1.050" ID The fittings are -10 AN weld fittings from Summit racing and -6 AN weld fittings from them as well The Tapped bungs will be just cut to diameter, drilled, tapped, and welded on. The (3) -4 AN fittings for the vent will all be collected to a small swirl pot which will be located near the firewall (brake booster) area and the lower end of this swirl pot returned to the coolant inlet into the block (will get pictures of that later). I plan to support the rear of it from the strut brace since the engine may vibrate more than the radiator + strut brace. Tell me if you think I'm missing something before I start the fabrication?! Forgive the mocked up rusty steel pipe, it fit well into the stock radiator and helped visualize / measure. Thanks, Patrick hypertune coolant manifold rev1.pdf

Weather was horrible here this weekend, but hopefully I'll have more time this week to work on this car! I did, however, mock up the crank dampener. This week will be trying to figure out how to plumb the coolant out of the intake manifold (there are 7 coolant OUTLETS on the manifold!). I have to get them to a swirl pot and back to the radiator. Also I need to make sure the manifold is still "installable"...Not going to be an easy task. Patrick

My buddy chucked up my fluidampr in the CNC mill today and got this done for me. 12 slots, .115" deep, .250" wide, .300" plunged toward center from outside. This will be my trigger on the Honeywell GT101 sensor on the crankshaft with the haltech platinum pro ecu set to 24+1. The 24 is usually the designation for the AEM cam wheel that can be inserted into the factory CAS, when used on the crank there need to only be 12 slots due to 4 stroke (2 rotations of crank for one of cam). The other trigger is a GT101 for the HOME (1 in the 24+1) signal. I'll get the timing right in the haltech on initial setup. Kind of a bummer that the platinum pro can only handle these 12 notches though. Not killer resolution, but heck it's better than using that small resolution in the CAS with all it's jumpiness.

Piece of rubber intercooler hose that I wrapped with some older cut intercooler hose and I agree. I'm going to space it out there when I head back to the shop. Noticed it after taking pictures (after fitting manifold and tightening clamps actually). Thank you for pointing out in case.

Back to going strong. Installed oil cooler, re-did my intercooler plumbing, re-routed head "drain" line and made a little bracket. Massive changes to cooling system design (schematic coming soon). Patrick

Can't believe I have this turbo and didn't notice that? Do you simply machine off the end and then use a 2.5" vband? Does someone sell a 90 with flanged connection already? I'd really interested. My piping does fit well but it is all silicone. That outlet really gets tight near my shock tower.

Can't believe I have this turbo and didn't notice that? Do you simply machine off the end and then use a 2.5" vband? Does someone sell a 90 with flanged connection already? I'd really interested. My piping does fit well but it is all silicone. That outlet really gets tight near my shock tower.

Agreed that housing is more compact in everyway. My boost solenoid (8374) is out on the edge of the compressor housing as well. While mine fit well like it is, I bet the 90 degree is a better fit with piping.

Holy smokes is that really 630 whp on PUMP GAS?! Well I'm hoping to hit my target of 550 whp on pump gas. Any more is Lagniappe as we say down here

Look at my build for pretty detailed pictures. It should be noted that I cut my own shims, but buying factory would have been easier (beware there are a LOT of factory shims). Here's a link http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447384-r32-gtr-build-in-usa/?p=7559306

Sorry for the delays in my project, but I'm back on it and set my goals to have that thing dyno'd within 45 days. I'm trying like hell! Trust me, I want to see an 8374 efr dyno on a stroker as well

I didn't weigh it yet, but I would imagine after dumping the twins, going to the hypertune, removing BOV stuff,I'm still going to be 100 lbs less than factory and that's with the heavier BC stroker crank. Yes I was looking at the plumbing thinking "if you recirculate, why would you EVER upgrade the BOV's on this car?". I'm trying to target about 1 month to dyno. That's hopeful because it's mardi gras here, but I have a punch list and I'm trying to knock something out everyday (no matter how small). AS soon as my brother gets the welding machine back to the shop (he's almost done with his 1969 Ford mustang Mach 1), I'll be fabricating the downpipe and getting that side buttoned up.

Modified and fitted Murrayis's Bosch GT101 crank and cam sensors. I had to modify the crank location due to two things: 1) the Tomei oil pump has an external pump pressure adjustment point that interferes with his location and 2) The Fluidampr crank dampener is a smaller diameter than the factory unit. So I cut his up, added a spacer, and made it work. Also ran the intercooler hoses from the turbo to the intercooler (just flipped the factory steel tube around - still need to grind factory brackets off and weld on new brackets), and then added some on the other side for the Hypertune manifold. While I was at it I removed ALL of the factory BOV recirculated mess!!! I must say the simplicity of the BW EFR with it's built-in recirculating BOV is a significant weight and plumbing savings over factory. It made room for the oil cooler location and I started fitting that as well (no pics of that yet). Showed how I ground / filed the coolant inlet neck where it was hitting the Hypertune manifold. The "arrow" ridge used to go all the way to the coolant hose. Oh and one more thing I finally took a picture of the amount that the TRUST sump extension is below the cross member.