stranger12

Aftermarket wheel horn wiring Hi all I am very confuaed trying to fix my horn I have an omp aftermarket wheel which has a red connector attached to the Hub metal bit and available as spade connector to connet to the horn button Then the horn has two tabs for spade connectors which are ground and positive Ground is making contact with a hub using a little latch on the back of the horn button so you don't have to wire it I have a relay which has direct power and ground from battery, a leg going to horn and a leg to the switch which is plugged to the horn button on the hub This doesn't work however if I touch the horn red wire previously plugged to wheel positive connector the horn works What am i doing wrong here? on relay, 30 to live positive direct feed 85 ground direct feed 87 to horn 86 to back of the hub which is grounded but has no other power going to it horn is then grounded

I looked at exedy and extreme but again some dealers sell it with stages attached hence why i asked

Cool and did some research re location of wide band and you are right i saw recommandations from 0.5 meter to 1 meter as close to turbo is too hot for wide band i thought i saved myself some money when i installed a micra 1.3 o2 sensor on my skyline after o2 was bust it has been ok but as you said it could be voltage reading of it could mean different things to my ecu to what original nissan skyline o2

Clutch upgrade Hi all i am deciding on my clutch to support my max 500 bhp at flywheel. i have seen numorous brands, what brand will you pick or well known? would you also install a lighted flywheel? i have seens clutches from stage 2 to 4. is there any harm in installing stage 4 if I don't need it? i think stage 4 is 500 bhp and above finally would you have a go yourself to replace it? Is it a tough job if you are one man ? i was thinking i could get a transmission support

Got you, i knew it as down pipe Thanks for letting me know

Thanks , don't know what you mean by dump By the way is it a national holiday in Australia today? I am thinking of calling link with some questions . It is 10 pm here in the uk

At the end it will be wide band when link is in:) Do you know why it has to be 1 meter away from turbo by any chance? Regarding the voltage range , if i understood you correctly Nissan or any manufacture will program their ecu to that specific narrow band . Please let me know if I misunderstood you

Narrow band o2 All, in theory can you install any narrow band sensor by making the connection end fit wirinh loom? i understand narrow band will be sending lean or rich signal thus should be using a stanadard voltage to communicte this meaning any ecu can understand any o2 sensor, am i correct? reason to ask is i have a narrow band sensor on the r34 and have just purchased a wide band. i want to replace it and install it where the narrow band sensor is right after turbo and then from the controller feed the narrow band to ecu until i get my link ecu in which can will use the wide band output many thanks

Sitting down and thinking through this i am still going to get injectors, ecu and pump( bought walbro255) Then really i am not saving anytime as rather than using hyper gear i could get twin scroll with internal wastegate The only extra i need is exhuast manifold The only hassle is custom downpipe. I am not paying fortune to tuners and do it myself so how do you go about getting the right downpipe sorted? I guess the manifold will be a split design but you still get one twin port to mount turbo on From turbo to exhaust would you have two pipes or one? If I go top mount, does it fit in engine bay with my carbon bonnet?

This http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/msOLbCBlUF2Mgou-MSQnF1w.jpg

the nipple which you connect the hose to is broken and brand new is between £120-150 an ecu is £1300 . the sensor won't be used when putting link it so wasting money really but don't want my car to run bad as a result might just bite the bullet and get the sensor

we can close this thread as I have picked up questions re link ecu below thanks

ok I am about to buy the link plug and play question I have is, my car is not running well due to boost pressure control ( Hitachi Bosch PS66-01) not working (un plugged). I don't want to waste £120 buying that sensor so would you keep driving car as is with standard ecu or buy link and drive it with base map for a while ? It will be good few month before I can take it for remap . my real question is how reliable is link base map

Cool thanks all under control now just buying stuff as i am typing ( walbro)

when relocating battery what mm wire did you get? I am thinking of getting 40mm Second question is , would you run thenpositive and negative under frame or in cabin? Now considering i am relocating my battery, should i wait and run a positive and negative direct from battery to my new walbro or just run it now from front of the car? Finally how do you join the existing positive and negative in engine bay to the newly run wire

By fuelling you mean the pump?

Makes sense sorry i did mean maf and some home said afr You have once again refreshed my memory many thanks Do you get someone solder a pipe past manifold for maf or just use existing vacumme and t it off

Ok so when i install link ecu which comes with internal 4 bar sensor then that will replace the maf? Do i just unplug it Would i need external maf if I am not going above 20-30 psi? In another word is therea difference between external and internal maf if i don't go above 20psi? Should i get a new iat? I am also researching voltage control so can install a bigger pump . Is there anything specific people use? I am wiring a new positive and negative direct from battery to pump to replace existing cables which cannot provide a higher voltage

Does this eliminate the existing afr right before the cone filter? If i understood correctly map sensor is better version of the afr which is on skyline and will replace it but i might be wrong If i use built in sensor, i just need to get a cable from boost to ecu? If I buy external one, where does it sit? Is it anywhere in engine and running a boost line to it? Do i have to do any wiring to link the external sensor to the link? Sorry for many questions I am getting very excited and about to buy the link next week after xmas

Could you decipher this please Who is HG and what do you mean by him sourcing a core for me Apologies not sure what you mean by atr

Yes but extra pressure can heat fuel up if not used Read my other post when people said this is not ideal

Thanks GTSboy considering most of times you are sarcastic but thank you really:) The import cost is 20% which is fine but what isn't is that I understood it as I need to send my turbo, they will change shaft and then send it back which means AU may charge import and uk do the same on return If they sell one without sending mine then that will be great Will get injectors. What brand would you get As for AFM i am getting link which comes with a map sensor . I believe this is replacing the current afm installed right before air filter ( i read the difference between afm and map but can't recall it)

Many thanks so essentially you managed to drive around by monitoring the a/f ratio on a wide band sensor? Does the map sensor sit right before the air filter where current one is? I guess I have to get a link map sensor , correct? I believe there was a zx20 map sensor( if that is correct) which people used as an upgrade to standard one Does the ecu need to be linked up to the wide band sensor?

I will start researching it now thanks for answering both questions re ecu and turbo Edit: Seems quite cheap but expensive for me to do it from uk( import export costs) Will have to find a uk turbo builder

Many thanks So cannot plug it in and then do the rest? I can also buy the map sensor The reason i am asking is so it gives me time to ensure turbo and everything else is working as expected before shelling out £500 for mapping Also at the moment my boost controller sensor which i think does some task including playing with Air and fuel ratio is broken I know this is bypassed and not needed in link so wanted to buy this ecu rather than wasting £150 on a sensor which i won't need soon Car is running a bit rough