Robo's

Looks like its on a rollercoaster

Go to Settings, its INJ map, just under IGN map

So hows the Michelins in normal road use when you give it a bit of curry in 1st and 2nd??

I know of the R34 you are talking about, featured in Zoom and HPI videos? So what tyres are you running with on the street? Nittos? I know thats what you used on the strip. I make a deal with you, if you can fix this guys problem with only suspension mods, i'll be your next customer. We are having enough problems with 200+, 420rwkw would certainly require a good steerer.

We are talking street driving not a race car suspension setup. Im no amateur and have done my fair share of drag racing (not track racing). Your call mate, believe SK who probably has never lived with an R33 as a daily driver and has experienced the frustration that you have. Or believe me, who has experienced your frustration but has fixed the problem. Your only as good as the rubber lets you.

Toyo RA1's and im sure Bridgestone RE55's would do the job too.

Try your suspension ($100 i surely doubt it) but honestly i don't think its going to fix your problem. You've got some decent power, enough to spin your wheels and hence why your asking the question. I have more power than you and stronger torque and i could wheelspin 2nd gear on the role everytime. It was fun but it was becoming a joke. Rear camber was checked and pineapples for squat fitted but didnt do enough. I even tried stock suspension to get some squat, but that didnt do enough either. Fitted some R compound rubber and bingo, i can get traction in 1st. As i mentioned in another post, it now launches like a GTR. Ask Silva33, he's been in my car on launch and was outstanded.

You must be! Majority of quick racers use drag tyres or slicks (there all significantly better than road tyres) So you are saying, you will benefit more from the rear end geometry allignment than a good set of nittos, RE55's to gain traction? Anyway ive driven around on Sumitunos for nearly 2 years with over 30 paces under my belt, and i ran a mid 12's on them with a 2.0 60'. With no other changes i bought some R compound rubber and truely say they are 50% better. It grips like a 4wd now. There is no way a suspension geometry will give you the same returns. Anyway thats my experience

Not as important as 90/10's or soft compound rubber, im talking maximum gains not minimal

When i used to run 103mph, i ran a best of 13.3 with plenty of 13.4-13.5. The 13.3 run i ran a 1.94 60'. If i ran a 2.0' you could guarantee a 13.4 run. If you dropped your 60' from 2.2 to 2.0, you could guarantee it would knock off between .3 - .4 at the top end.

Tried the subframe camber kit set to squat, done very very minimal. Again a rear camber set towards negative under squat is going to produce minimal results down the 1/4. 0.48 is a huge margin to gain, are you sure your back to back runs are identical runs ie (launch, gear changes, tyre temperatures)?? Proper 1/4 racing involves 90/10 front struts, soft rear springs, soft compound and heat. 99% of 1/4 races drop 0.50 second with the addition of slicks!!

I dont think we are talking about track racing here, just rear end traction on the road. So we are talking softer springs, weight transfer and proper allignment on the road so the tyre has its full flat surface on the tarmac. Nothing hard here!!!

Ive tried all sorts of techniques and have come to the conclusion that these R33's don't have really good traction. I dont know whether its a light rear end or what but its quite simple to light them up. I even bought a set of stock suspension to try and get some squat, this helped a tiny bit but on the negative side in handled very poorly. I could still produce wheelspin in 2nd gear once boost came on. My answer was tyres, i bought the RA1 Toyos. Traction is sensational to say the least, i can literally put the power down in first gear and it just raises the front and goes. I can snap second and i only get a tiny bit of wheelspin. From a handheld stopwatch, i am doing consistant 4.7's to 4.9's 0-100 with ease. My vedict is, you may change suspension geometry to get maybe a 5% gain if you lucky, your still not going to get traction in first. Buy some tyres, maybe sell off yours, and get a 50% gain.

Yeah thats it, now anyone got one lying around???

Far out, its $162, may as well buy a new one kit

There are 2 main bits. The bigger one has Boost Controller written on it and the smaller one is a map sensor which has 2 lines attaching too it and a plug, i think?

Has anyone got any pics of what the kit contains for a Power Fc Boost Controller Kit. Ive got the Boost Controller Valve but i think im missing a map sensor that goes from the manifold? Does anyone know what this looks like?

SAFC are a good baindaid fix. I was able to produce 207rwkw but my graph was not smooth at all. Also, with the stock turbo i was actually able to run a 12.98 pass , that must be a record without a PFC.

Check the lines to your wastegate, see if there are no splits, check your actuator too. Im getting 16psi at 3000rpm, midrange is strong, just ask Silv33, hahaha

Bump

I have mine so tight and im running 20psi. I dont know whether its a good thing or a bad thing but it works.

There is no need to take the bonnet off, need to jack it up and work from underneath and ontop. One bolt is particularly hard and you need to spend some time on it. Otherwise its quite easy.

Sorry wrong section

Sorry wrong section

Im after the boost pressure sensor that runs off the manifold for a Power FC Boost Controller Kit, Also its the same one used in the Apexi AVC-R