Robo's

So far i have noticed, i can still get wheelspin in 2nd when they are cold, but once they warm up, grip is phenominal. Im yet to try them down the 1/4 as yet but im predicting a nice drop in my times. I dont track race so i can't adivse you, but i only have them on the back so i would be understeering quite badly.

Refer to my original post, I know guys using these tyres at the drags and producing awesome launches. As for me, my car now bites hard. If they cant do both (drag and cornering) why do alot of quick street cars use RE55's and also Ben from RacePace uses these on his track GTR.

These RA1's are also excelent in the wet. Dry weather traction is awesome. Bring on some traffic lights.

What kind of dyno?

Now im running 12.5@114mph in street trim, it feels so much quicker than the previous setup which i ran one run of 12.98.

I was running around the 205rwkw but i still believe 194rwkw should get your more mph.

+I ran 107mph, so looks like you could do with a few more mph. I was definately in 4th, 3rd can't go to 170kph.

Give it some extra boost and watch it fly then.

What was your 60" times? 60 footers are a key to running a 12 with the standard turbo. I ran a 12.98 with a 2.02 60'. If you can get a sub 2.0, you should be home and hosed.

320 on light throttle is attrocious. Did they just tune your car for full throttle and not light throttle?? A/F ratios are much different at light throttle. We tuned at very light throttle then zero vacuum and then full throttle. The factory PC maps is quite rich at light throttle.

Where are the pics?

You will find the ones with 11 on the end are gapped at 1.1 and the ones with nothing on the end are gapped at 0.8mm

Gap them down to 0.8mm and it will stop your miss

Its only the porceline on the plug that is a little longer, ive installed both the BCPR and BKR and both fit. The coils have no problem fitting over both.

BCPR6EIX

Their expensive at around $400 a pop but you spend all this money on the car to get it going fast, now you can put it to the ground.

Well finally i bit the bullet and bought some Toyo Proxies RA1. These are a race tyre but are street legal similiar to the Bridgestone RE55. Im not expecting a very long life out of them but when you spend a fair bit of time spinning wheels, these are a huge releif. With the old Sumitunos HRZ 11's 255/40/17, 2nd gear wheel spin was at will as soon as boost hit. Good for showing off but not good for winning races. Now with these RA1's, i have 1st gear traction on the street and it is a rocket, no more hiding at traffic lights. Just for the record, i know RWD cars doing 1.6 60's with these tyres. Im not expecting 1.6, but if i can get 1.7/1.8 60's look out for a very low 12 and then i can drive it home. Perfecto.

Great plug, im running 20psi and their gapped at .8mm, no missing

My 2530 spins for a while after shut down.

Power Fc : $1100 Dump pipe $400 3 inch Cat $150 Air box $ 200 FMIC $1100 Actuator $200 Z32 $250 GTR Pump $170 HKS Turbo $1200 Tunes $500 (note this is plural) Theres at least $5k there on engine mods to get it running mid 12's , not bad when you think of it that way. What else can beat it for the money?

Power Fc : $1100 Dump pipe $400 3 inch Cat $150 Air box $ 200 FMIC $1100 Actuator $200 Z32 $250 GTR Pump $170 HKS Turbo $1200 Tunes $500 (note this is plural) Theres at least $5k there on engine mods to get it running mid 12's , not bad when you think of it that way. What else can beat it for the money?

Actually ive got the Power FC boost control kit, im just missing the boost control sensor which comes off the manifold, does anyone know what i can use instead of the Apexi one which costs $200.

Check to make sure your boost controller for the power fc is switched to off. It will not run if its on and you dont have the power fc boost controller.

Standard ECU, more dips and peaks than Mt. Everest

Lengthen the actuator arm to make less boost, shorten it to make more boost. I control my boost by the actuator arm only, i have no boost controller