cowie165

I did my NSW L's in 2002. I had never ridden before, around 6yrs driving cars. First bike was a ZZR250. Second bike was a ZXR750 L2. I rode the ZXR250 and CBR250RR. The ZXR250 was much more responsive than the ZZR, very quick and braked well, and both are uncomfortable after an hour and a bit. The difference between the ZXR and the CBR is much of a muchness, ie. stuff all. The guys that said the Kawasaki is just wider have hit the nail on the head. You won't have any dramas learning on either of the bikes. Just like when you bought your R33, you just have to use the throttle in proportion to your ability and experience. There are guys here that learned to drive in a GTSt. Boj01 said that the sports bikes suck when doing the P's test. He is 100% spot on. Rent a CB250. Enjoy bikes, they are awesome. I've never felt the same feeling of speed and fragility as I did on my bike. Then you can join the club of riders that insist on referring to cars as 'cages'. Mark

The dimmer wire is responsible for dimming the head unit when the lights are on. You know how when you turn the headlights on the climate control dims? It's just the same, but for your stereo. Some stereos don't have that feature, which is prob why you can't find it on the DEH-770. If you aren't using it, just tape up the wire or blank it off, it's not important if you can't use it. Mark

I've just (today) made mounting plates for the fronts. I've also ordered a pair of 6.5's and was hoping to confirm that someone out there in SAU-land has fitted a set already. I used 12mm MDF and the plate fits behind the door np (albeit with some massaging from the jigsaw ) but wondering about magnet clearance ref the window pane. If it makes a difference, they are Type R 2-way. I know guys have fit 6's, just hoping the 6.5's also fit. I guess one way or the other I'll find out next week. Mark PS Vijay thanks for the sticky

:werd: Similar fuel consumption here. Optimax/Ultimate (vice 95RON I mean), cat-back only. Mark

:werd: Similar fuel consumption here. Optimax/Ultimate (vice 95RON I mean), cat-back only. Mark

Hi Gordon Dude pardon my ignorance, which wire is the antenna control wire? I have RCA plugs for the amps and a power antenna wire on the head unit? Any info appreciated - right now the wire is just taped up inside the console Mark edit: Is there enough info in this thread to request a sticky?

Uh...guys, he's been banned. Trading related.

Hi dude, I just installed a head unit into my R32 yesterday. Assuming you know how to take the dash apart, you need: Antenna Adaptor lead "Nissan Double Diversity" - $12.99 fm Autobahn wire stripper/pliers either: screw connector (its a little white box with screw in terminals) - $3.99 fm Autobahn (though about 80c fm Jaycar) and a small screwdriver OR soldering iron I used the screw connector box cause it's easier (IMO) than soldering inside the dash, and if you stuff up (ie. connect speakers around the wrong way) it's super easy to fix, and much tidier. I recommend beg/borrow/steal a multimeter so you can confirm which wire is which, just in case your car is different to others. If you go to an auto shop (autobahn, supercheap, coventries) you might find a Nissan->Pioneer or Nissan->Alpine plug adaptor. Prob a good idea to check first, cause you'll save having to strip wires and test things out. I wasn't so lucky and had to suss it out with a mate. If you need more info, beam over a PM and I'll try and help with any q's you still have. Once you have all the bits, it's pretty straightforward and will take 2h(ish). Mark and geordie is spot on, run a separate earth. There is a decent earth when you screw into the gearshift (the oval gasket thing that holds the rubber boot down).

Installed a head unit today. The BNR32 wires were different colours to the R33 as posted. For the benefit of anyone else with an R32: yellow - constant 12V blue - acc / switchable 12V blue(red trace) - luminance/dimmer You can suss it out easy enough with a multimeter, and work out the speakers with a D-cell battery. The plug that has the power wires on it also hosts the front speakers. The other plug has the rears and the factory amp. If I remember, I'll post the colours for the speakers, but I've left the old plug in the car and cant remember those ones 100%. Mark

Thanks Lucien, I'm in the same boat (pardon the pun) as Reni. Mark

My car (1989) has belt noise for 30secs (ish) following cold startup. I'll check out where the noise is coming from (thought it was the alternator - only because it goes away after startup). Thanks 3lite3, I'll try the WD40. Cheers Mark

Today had the car regassed with R12 (edit:: It wasn't actually R12 - they now use SP34e, which is essentially R134a with an additive to make it compatible with R12 systems - doesn't seem as cold ) for $85 + GST. It was done in Sale, VIC, so that won't help you LW, but it's out there. "It can be done, we have the technology..." Mark

I picked up my car last weekend from SSPI. The guys came in especially to finish up the work required and arranged for the tyre fitting, alignment, detailing, and minor fixes whilst the car was in the workshop. When it was rego time, all the paperwork was sorted for me and the RTA trip was hassle free because of it. Hats off to Chris and Emanuel, I told them I'd leave a post here - the guys looked after me and I'd like to say thanks any way I can. Cheers dudes Mark SSPI can carry out SEVS compliance for R33/34.

GTR drivers ph34r the cheaper GTSt clear indicators! Much money could be wasted

Hi dude My wife is big on Enjo, so that's all that I know. The purple (car washing) glove needs to be wet, so that's out. The orange (dusting) glove is pretty good if you static it up on the TV or something, but the car will need to be clean beforehand, otherwise you'll just end up scratching it. Hope it helps Mark

Richard I'm going to Just Jap on Saturday. I can see if they have a set there? Can post to yours if you want (cause I'm going back to Melbourne Sunday morning). Or you could come to Kirrawee too and bring yer soarer Mark Send me a PM if you want - the GTR story continues, but should be registered this Sat. Yay.

All fingers and toes crossed! It must be a good feeling to have the car ready to start, no doubt. Any time I come close to being cut about the patience required, I take a mo to remember those that have gone through worse, especially you dude. I'm excited for you, I'm sure you'll let us know how it goes tomorrow. And for those interested, ATTESSA is sorted! The perished hose was long enough to have the cracked end trimmed off and then refitted! Suhweeeet! Apparently the busted hose was right above the rear diff and a pita to get to. Test drive went well, but then ABS and 4WD light came back on when the car came back to the workshop... Argh! After a lot of fault-finding, a trip to JustJap and $250 later, a used G-sensor replaced my one that was cactus. So to Chris at SSPI for getting it sorted so damn quickly, great work! The car is likely to be ready to be registered this weekend. *sigh* just one final hurdle... the inevitable dickarounds at the RTA. Mark Richard: that is some list dude, nice

Great to hear Lucien, now... about selling your old wheels... I would be more understanding if that was the case. The 4WD warning light comes on and stays on once ignition is switched on. Impossible to miss. Suffice to say, I'm very happy the car is here and once it is fixed I'm looking forward to enjoying driving once again! I'm so tight I don't even have a digi-cam. Might be a week before pics. Mark

Of course! *forehead smack* :Oops: I got a bit excited! Cheers Duncan. To put it plainly - the 4WD light stays on, the empty reservoir is in the right rear of the boot, and the mechanic looking after things advised that right now it will only run in RWD as the lack of fluid means no pressure on the 4WD transfer. I've had a browse through the manual, and it's definitely ATTESSA. D'oh. Mark

Belay that second w00t Lucien, I'm officially downgrading things to single w00t status... Update: Driver sills have a fair amount of rust that will need attention. The car is very driveable, but think aluminium can in event of accident. Not too bad, easily fixed; between summer mould and winter corrosion, I'm not sure what's worse. Now, my favorite part. The HICAS isn't working because of a rubber hose that has perished over time. The $10 hose is right up under the ar$e end of the car and is apparently very hard to get to (read: at this stage the butt end of the car will have to ALL come out). These things happen, the car is 15yrs old, np. That's probably why a car in such good condition (aesthetic I mean - it's very very nice inside and out) sold for the price it did. The only bit that truly bugs me is that the Prestige description of the vehicle was "runs and drives very well". Oh yeah, 'cept for the no 4WD thing... that is likely to be very expensive to fix :bs!: Mark

Richard: the car was delivered to Kirrawee on Friday (4 Feb), so prob went through Greenacre mid-last week? Thanks dude, it was great to see the car, and I'm looking forward to seeing it detailed. Here's hoping the HICAS thing is just low fluid levels. Now it's off to the For Sale threads to find some misc bits and pieces. BTW, the workshop also had a March 1990 GT-R that arrived by mistake!? The guys bought a GT-R, then someone sent the wrong one from Japan! The most interesting thing of it all is how it managed to leave the Customs yard? Bizarre-o Jerry. Mark

After four months, one week, and two days, I say in my car last weekend The Good 3" catback exhaust I didn't know about Inside is b.e.a.utiful! Seats look spotless and almost new Outside looks great, only marks on passenger mirror - no doubt more to see once it's washed 18" deep dish 2-piece 5-spokes look horn The Bad the 'standard' damage to the spoiler pylons - cheers Kiwi 4WD light stays on - and there has been a prang in the drivers rear quarter, right next to the HICAS lines. - ack! you didn't mention that Geoff! centre vents busted wiper arms need paint The Ugly the "Mega-Widescreen VisionMax" mirror that has been installed over the standard rear vision mirror. It's about 15" wide! The view is actually very good, but looks oh so stupid. the threaded golf ball for a gearknob Yeehah Mark Mark/Mr M-Spec: Dude what is an 'establishment version'?

You've probably sorted this out already, but for those who read this thread, you don't actually apply for the DEH exemption until the car has arrived in country. Your application is made through Customs. You'll need your letter and either a copied passport or JP'd driver's licence copy. It doesn't cost you anything either. More info on DEH and aircon here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57519 Mark

As the website says and as RS has eluded to, after that, you'll need to allow $1400ish for the work required to make the car comply with ADR's (but not SEVS compliance, different story), then rego+CTP, say $700, then stamp duty at 3% (whatever that is, too lazy). You may need tyres. You may need engine work. You will want to have the vehicle serviced (possibly cleaned). You may also need to pay for road freight if the vehicle ships with Kiwi Car Carriers (they only deliver to Brisbane). Add all that up. Now you have a figure which you can compare against R32's you see in the trading post. The difference (if any) will be what you are saving by taking the risk of buying a dunger and the stress/headache of messing about importing the car. If, in your opinion, you'd prefer to save the cash/be the first Australian owner/whatever, go ahead and import the car, you'll prob come out ahead. Keep in mind though, that the cheaper the vehicle (moreso the lower the median sale price of that particular model) the more savings to be had. What I'm saying is, you'll save more by importing a 1999 GTR than you would by importing an 89 S13, as the fixed costs are the same (well not exactly, but reasonably close bar import duty/GST) The car doesn't need to be imported through a RAWS. A 15yr old car can be imported, and delivered to your house for your to muck around on, like a few blokes here are doing. If I remember rightly, a SEVS car must go to the workshop for 'real' compliance. They are two totally different things that people tend to use the same term for, which is why you feel confused. Hope it helps. Mark